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The Pyunkang Yul Moisture Serum is a skin repairing and hydrating serum made from Coptic Japonica (Milkvetch) root extract, a traditional Chinese medicinal remedy used for treating inflammatory conditions. This light-weight hypoallergenic emulsion balances the skins moisture barrier, reduces sebum production, and hydrates the skin.
Pyunkang Yul Claim:
The Pyunkang Yul Moisture Serum contains only 15 essential ingredients. It provides balanced nutrition to the skin that has lost its oil and water balance and helps the skin retain its vitality. The isoflavonoids in the Milkvetch root improve skin elasticity and are absorbed deep into the skin improving hydration.
Brand Overview:
Pyunkang Yul is a clean skincare line created by the Pyunkang Eastern Medicine Clinic in South Korea. Their brand philosophy is “less is more” and they only use safe and gentle ingredients. They believe that healthy skin is capable of retaining moisture and controlling oil production. To read more about the brand, and their other products I have tried and recommend, click here.
Appearance and Scent:
The constancy is similar to that of water, which makes it easily absorbed into the skin. It feels very lightweight and absorbs without any residual stickiness. The fragrance-free formula has no discernible scent.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The serum comes in a 100 ml glass bottle with an eyedrop applicator. The expiry is 24 months from the date of manufacture or 12 months after opening.
Cost and number of uses:
The Punkang Yul Nutrition Cream retails for NZD $42.60 or US $29.70. This size bottle lasted me for approximately six months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
After cleansing and toning, dispense an adequate amount of the serum and gently pat it into the skin. Follow with the rest of your skincare routine. Use in the morning and evening.
Formulation Science:
The serum was independently tested by the Punkang Korean Medicine Skin Laboratory on 110 people over a two week period. Of the participants, 95% reported dryness had been erased, 95% reported greasiness had been erased, 86% reported skin had become healthy and 92% reported an improvement in elasticity.
Ingredients:
Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Arginine, Dimethicone
Ingredient Analysis:
Coptis Japonica Root Extract. The extracts from Coptis rhizomes have been used as traditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years to treat various inflammatory disorders. The extracts have been shown to have a wide range of pharmacological activities including acting as an antioxidant, antifungal, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumour, and antioxidant agent.
This study looked at the vital component of the Coptic japonica extract, Berberine, and found that the extract could be useful for inhibiting fat accumulation and improving skin sagging, swelling and cellulite.
Olive Fruit oil is extracted from the fruit of the Olea europaea tree. It contains high amounts of oleic acid (omega-9 fatty acid). Over 200 different chemical compounds have been identified and isolated from olive oil, including phenolic compounds with higher antioxidant activity than vitamin E. Most studies on olive oil benefits focus on oral consumption, however, it is known that when applied topically, it can exacerbate acne-prone skin types, due to the fatty acid content. It also has been shown to cause irritation and increased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) in people prone to dermatitis and for this reason, it should not be used on infants skin.
Butylene glycol is a common ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is very efficient at enhancing the penetration of active ingredients and acts as a humectant and solvent with antimicrobial properties. It can be used to decrease the viscosity of a formulation or to mask unpleasant odours. It is considered to be non-toxic and non-irritating when applied topically.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, skin softening ingredient that is capable of retaining moisture and repairing the skin due to its high fatty acid content. It also has the ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients without leaving an oily residue on the skin. It is produced by mixing coconut oil or palm kernel oil with glycerin.
Carbomers are a group of synthetic, high molecular weight polymers that are used as thickeners and suspending agents, capable of stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. They are considered to be a safe cosmetic ingredient and are present in many products.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits, but studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
Dimethicone is a silicone that protects the skin from moisture loss and improves the spreadability and slip of formulations. Historically it was believed that silicones ‘clog’ pores or prevents the skin from breathing. This has been proven to be incorrect, in fact, silicones are considered to be one of the most breathable occlusive ingredients. They have been included in this formula to give the serum a silky feeling and a ‘slip’ that allows subsequent applications or skincare products to absorb more readily.
pH Testing:
I got a pH result of 5.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this serum is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). The pH is a skin-friendly 5 that will help to return the skin to its optimal acidity level after cleansing and ensure it maintains its optimal moisture balance and overall health. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
My Experience:
This is one of the first products I purchased after discovering Kbeauty could help with perioral dermatitis. The theory of treatment was simple, use nourishing products with no irritating ingredients (i.e. fragrances, alcohol, parabens, essential oils), limiting how many products I put on my skin and reduce inflammation to allow my body to slowly rebuild my damaged skin barrier. What I loved about the serum as it felt like it formed a protective layer of my skin. This sealed moisture in yet it also felt like it was helping keep certain things out, like the makeup I was advised not to wear. I have a tendency to want to find the newest and most exciting product and layer on as many products as possible. Initially, this serum with a simple ingredient list did sound underwhelming (no overnight miracles promised here), just simple effective skincare that contains everything skin needs and nothing it doesn’t. Six months later my skin had repaired itself to the point where I could reintroduce anti-aging actives, but I still return to this serum when my skin started showing the tell-tale signs of overenthusiasm. My favourite way to use this in my routine is after completing the 7-toner method using the Punkyang Yul Essence Toner (you can read about this method and my review of the Essence Toner here). The only thing I disliked about this serum is the formula is slightly too viscous for glass dropper and as such dispensing can be a challenge.
Overall Impressions:
This serum is soothing and nourishing and works as a good hydrating base for repairing damaged skin, or before applying strong active ingredients. It helps to restore the skin’s pH level after cleansing, and strengthen the moisture barrier, healing damaged skin and improving overall skin health. Any skin type would benefit from using this product.
Things I Liked:
- pH balanced at 5
- Simple ingredient list
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and essential oils
- Affordable
- A high amount of active ingredients, and no water present in the formula
- Safe for sensitive skin
- Cruelty-free
Things I Disliked:
- Olive oil may cause sensitivity in some people
- The glass packaging is not travel friendly
- The dropper can struggle with the viscosity of the serum
Sources:
- Coptidis rhizoma: A comprehensive review of its traditional uses, botany, physiochemical, pharmacological and toxicology. Pharmaceutical Biology, 2019.
- The effects of Coptic japonica root extract and it’s key component, berberine, on human subcutaneous adipocytes. International Journal of cosmetic sciences, 2010.
- Effect of olive oil and sunflower seed oil skin barrier: implications for neonatal skincare. Paediatric dermatology, 2013.
- Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of molecular sciences, 2018.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Dipropylene Glycol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1985.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2001.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Carbomers-934, -910, -934P, -940, -941, and -962. International Journal of Toxicology, 1990.
