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The Hylamide High-Efficiency Face Cleaner is an oil cleanser that can be used on either dry or wet skin. This makes the product extremely versatile as it can function as either a traditional oil cleanser or as a second cleanser. It rinses off easily and completely and leaves skin feeling hydrated and comfortable. It is safe and non-irritating to use around the eyes and gently removes eye make up and mascara and all traces of sunscreen and foundation.
Hylamide Claim:
This highly-efficient, balancing micro-emulsion brings together oils, esters and water-compatible cleaners into one advanced formula that works like an oil cleaner but acts like a water-based one. In a single step, oils of Mediterranean Crambe and East Asian Kanuga work with plant-derived esters to delete every trace of impurity, face- and eye-makeup. As you rinse off, sustainably-sourced Amazonian oils together with purified tomato carotenoids leave behind an innocuous layer of comfortable, non-comedogenic hydration. Unlike traditional oil cleaners, this advanced micro-emulsion does not require using a towel or mitt to clean the face as it rinses off efficiently with water in a single step.
Appearance and Scent:
The light-weight oil has a thin and easy to spread consistency, and a light floral scent. It has the texture and viscosity of a light oil, that turns into a white milky-like liquid when mixed with water. It is easily rinsed away with a few splashes of water, leaving skin clean and feeling comfortable.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The packaging is simple, spill-free, hygienic, and easy to use. The twist top can be closed to prevent accidental spillages during travelling. The bottle contains 120ml of product and expires 12 months after opening.
How to Use:
To use as a oil cleanser, massage well onto dry face and rinse with warm water. To use as a second cleanser, massage well onto wet face and rinse with warm water.
Price and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $26 or USD $18. The bottle lasted me around three months with twice-daily usage.
Formulation Science:
This makeup removing cleanser hybrid is unique in that it is equally effective when used on either dry skin, like a traditional oil cleanser, or wet skin, like a second cleanser. This combination of oil esters and water-compatible cleanses makes this a truly versatile addition to any skincare routine.
Ingredients:
Cetyl ethylhexanoate, peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate, bisabolol, oenocarpus bataua fruit oil, bertholletia excelsa seed oil, plukenetia volubilis seed oil, crambe abyssinica seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, solanum lycopersicum (tomato) fruit extract, pongamia pinnata (karanja) seed oil, squalane, ethylhexyl stearate, tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin.
Ingredient Analysis:
Cetyl ethylhexanoate is a fatty alcohol that acts as emollient (skin softening agent) with a chemical structure similar to many emollients used in makeup and skincare and is, therefore, able to dissolve silicones, oils, pigments and sunscreens that may be present on the skin, making it an ideal oil cleansing ingredient.
PEG – polyethylene glycols are polyether compounds with repeating ethylene glycol units. Peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate is a non-ionic compound used as an emulsifier, dispersing agent and solubilising agent in skincare. It is mainly utilised and rinse off cleaning products due to its high molecular weight and hydrophilic property’s, it is not anticipated to cross biological membranes or bioaccumulate. Skin and Eye irritation or sensitisation is expected to be negative or weak.
Bisabolol is an oil that is the main constituent of the essential oil from the German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) plant. It has several pharmacological properties and is often used as a skin conditioning agent, anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient.
Oenocarpus bataua fruit oil is it a rich source of monounsaturated saturated fatty acid (MUFA) and contains a higher oleic acid content than olive oil.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil (jojoba seed oil) is from the desert living, drought-resistant plant with an exceptionally long lifespan. The oil derived from the seeds has high oxidative stability and is very resistant to degradation. It is especially useful for repairing the skin barrier in people with dermatitis, eczema, and acne. It has anti-inflammatory properties and is antiaging. The seeds contain 40-60% oil, which is chemically classified as a liquid wax because it consists of esters, unlike other seed oils that are composed of triglycerides. This gives jojoba seed oil unique properties for the use in skincare and cosmetics.
Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) fruit extract is rich in phenolic compounds (flavonoids and phenolic acids), phytoalexins, protease inhibitors, and carotenoids like lycopene and β-carotene.
Pongamia pinnata (karanja) seed oil comes from a tree used for traditional Indian medicine as a cure for skin disease and wounds. Its diverse medicinal use is due to its anti-oxidant, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory action.
Squalane is a skin-identical ingredient naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and is a constituent of sebum along with triglycerides and wax esters. Its function is to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier of the skin.
Tocopherol refers to a group of molecules known as Vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant essential for healthy skin. Vitamin E is delivered to the skin through sebum, but can be applied topically, especially in cases where the diet is lacking. Vitamin E absorbs UV energy and reacts with reactive oxygen species (ROS) which protects the skin from UV-induced free radical damage and provides protection from the damaging effects of UV radiation. It is also able to provide anti-inflammatory properties within the skin. It is added to skincare for its ability to protect collagen from degradation by ROS.
pH Testing:
The formula is water-free, therefore does not have a pH value.
Results:
I used this cleanser twice daily for about three months, during this time I noticed an improvement in the overall health of my skin. This may be in part due to the fact that this product allowed me to eliminate any foaming (surfactant-based) cleansers out of my routine which are known to be incredibly harsh on the skin. I prefer this cleanser over both The Ordinary’s Squalane Cleanser and NIODS Low Viscosity Cleansing Ester (read my review here).
Overall Impressions:
This product is effective at removing makeup and sunscreen and does an excellent job as both a water and oil cleanser. For this reason I specially love this cleanser when travelling because I can take one product instead of two. This is a truly versatile product that will always have a place on my shelf.
Things I Liked:
- Effective at removing mascara, sunscreen and makeup
- Can be used on wet or dry skin
- Can be used as either a first or second cleanser
- Free of alcohol and fragrance
- Safe for use around the eye area
- Affordable
- Travel-friendly packaging
- Cruelty-free and vegan
Things I Disliked:
- There weren’t any
Sources:
- Deciem website
- Antiinflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2018.
- Physiochemical composition of seed oil of wild jojoba populations in Northwestern Mexico. Journal of Food and Nutrition Research, 2017.
- A Review of the Application and Pharmacological Properties of α-Bisabolol and α-Bisabolol-Rich Oils. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society, 2009.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Bisabolol. International Journal of Toxicology, 1999.
- Biological and pharmacological archives of squalene and related compounds. Potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules, 2009.
- Fatty acids content in ungurahua oil (Oenocarpus bataua) from ecuador. findings on adulteration of ungurahua oil in Ecuador. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research, 2018.
- Evaluation of antioxidative capability of the tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) skin constituents by capillary electrophoresis and highâperformance liquid chromatography. Electrophoresis, 2008.
- Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatological Online Journal, 2016.
- Vitamin E and skin health. Oregon State University-Micronutrient Information Centre, 2012.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
- A Review on Pongamia Pinnata (L.) Pierre: A Great Versatile Leguminous Plant. Nature and Science, 2009.
- Medicinal uses, phytochemistry and pharmacology of Pongamia pinnata (L.) Pierre: A review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2013.
