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The Dear Klaris Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drops prevent the signs of aging by nourishing and replenishing the skin. They are designed to encourage cellular activity and activating the skins own renewal mechanisms to help the skin look youthful. It is formulated with the peptides EGF and FGF-2, which are naturally occurring proteins within the skin that decline with age. I recommend this for anyone who wants an anti-aging serum that is looking to incorporate peptides into their routine, in a formula that is safe for sensitive skin and won’t cause any irritation or sensitivity.
Dear Klaris Claim:
This night serum reduces fine lines and wrinkles using a dual peptide formula strengthened by EGF (sh-Oligopeptide-1) and bFGF (sh-Polypeptide-1). Ten ingredients fight and prevent aging to maintain youthful-looking skin.
Dear Klairs is a part of the Wishtrend Brand, to read more about the brand and some of my favourite products click here.
Appearance and Scent:
The serum is a dark blue liquid that is the consistency of water. Once applied, it absorbs quickly without any stickiness. The fragrance-free formula has no detectable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The packaging is a dark brown glass bottle, with a glass pipette applicator. The serum is packaged this way to protect the ingredients from light, so it’s best to store it out of direct sunlight. The bottle contains 20ml of product and expires six months after opening or three years from the date of manufacture.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $44.00 or USD $30.00. I have been using one 3/4 of a pipette in the evening and found the 20ml product lasted me about 5 weeks.
How to Use:
After cleansing, and using a toner, dispense an appropriate amount and gently pat into the skin to promote absorption. Once fully absorbed, follow with a moisturizer. This product should not be used at the same time as products containing acids or Vitamin C.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Toner -> Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser -> Cleanser -> Toner -> Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Formulation Science:
Ingredients:
Water, Butylene Glycol, sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-1, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Lecithin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Guaiazulene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine
Ingredient Analysis:
Butylene glycol is a common ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is very efficient at enhancing the penetration of active ingredients and acts as a humectant and solvent with antimicrobial properties. It can be used to decrease the viscosity of a formulation or to mask unpleasant odours. It is considered to be non-toxic and non-irritating when applied topically.
SH-Oligopeptide-1 a 53-amino acid isomer of epidermal growth factor (EGF) is an ingredient responsible for stimulating collagen production and also plays an important role in pathways associated with skin healing.
SH-Polypeptide-1 codes for an isomer of Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF-2), stimulates the growth and proliferation of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen. It also has been shown to inhibit inflammation and improve skin wound healing.
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract comes from the ancient genus of plants that can be dated back more than 100 million years. The berries are is a potent antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient due to their high polyphenol, Vitamin C and anthocyanin content. These compounds help prevent oxidative stress and inflammation and support collagen synthesis.
Lecithin is a naturally occurring substance composed of fatty acids that is found in all plant and animal tissues. It acts as an emulsifier and emollient capable of restoring suppleness to dry damaged skin by forming a protective barrier over the skin that traps water. It is added to skincare to help aid the penetration of active ingredients. It is sourced from soybeans, sunflowers, or egg yolks.
Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Guaiazulene is a hydrocarbon that is found naturally in several plant and mushroom species that has been used by the indigenous populations of North and South America. In the cosmetics industry, it is typically isolated from the essential oil of German camomile. It is characterised by a brilliant blue colour but is also an effective antimicrobial and antioxidant and is an emollient that soothes and softens the skin. It has been shown to be effective against dermatitis.
Adenosine is a nucleoside that makes up one of the four nucleotides molecules in DNA and RNA. Derivatives of adenosine are ubiquitous in nature and play essential roles in many biochemical processes. Yeast derived adenosine has recently been found to be an effective addition to skincare formulations for its potential anti-aging benefits. Read more about adenosine and its skincare benefits here.
pH Testing:
I got a result of pH 5. The Wishtrend website says the pH will be between 4.5 and 6.5.
pH Analysis:
The pH result I got when I tested the serum is within the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). This makes this an ideal serum to nourish and protect the skin moisture barrier and support natural anti-aging processes within the skin. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here and why it is so crucial for the overall health of the skin.
Results:
This serum does provide some instant hydration and plumps the skin. It absorbs very fast and sits well under all subsequent skincare products. I have used this serum in multiple layers and found each layer to absorb well. The formula is calming for my skin and sits comfortably even when my skin is irritated. Due to the watery consistency, even oily skin types would like this serum. I recommend this for anyone who wants an anti-aging serum that is looking to incorporate peptides into their routine, in a formula that is safe for sensitive skin and won’t cause any irritation or sensitivity.
Overall Impressions:
This is a really nice serum with a list of traditionally used, but newly researched ingredients. Dear Klaris say this serum can be used both morning and night, but I preferred using it only at night because I use Vitamin C during the day. Please note that you should not mix EGF/peptides with acid-containing products (Vitamin C, BHA’s or AHA’s). While I did enjoy using this serum for the hydrating and soothing benefit, I did not notice any antiaging benefits in the time it took me to use the bottle. This is not unusual, as many anti-aging treatments take time to show effectiveness. While I might repurchase in the future but am keen to try other peptide products to see if I get better results.
What I Liked:
- Contains an impressive list of ingredients
- Fragrance, essential oil and alcohol-free
- layers well with other products
- Suitable for all skin types
- Dear Klaris is a vegan and cruelty-free brand suitable for sensitive skin
What I Disliked:
- The glass packaging is not travel friendly
- Peptides may not work for everyone
Disclaimer:
This product was gifted to me by Wishtrend in exchange for an unbiased review. This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to purchase a product, I will receive a small commission which will help support my blog at no extra cost to you. If you do use my affiliate links, I really appreciate your support.
References:
- Wishtrend website
- Application of Synthetic Peptides to Improve Parameters of Skin Physiology: An Open Observational 30-Day Study. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2020.
- Trending Anti-Aging Peptides. Cosmetics, 2020.
- Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2009.
- Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 2007.
- Blueberries and Their Anthocyanins: Factors Affecting Biosynthesis and Properties. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 2011
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006
- Effect of a Guaiazulene-Containing Ointment on Nipple and Areola Area Health of Women. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2016.
- Guaiazulene: A new treatment option for recalcitrant diaper dermatitis in NICU patients. The Journal of Maternal-Fetal and Neonatal Medicine, 2012.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Dipropylene Glycol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1985
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006
- Safety Assessment of Lecithin and Other Phosphoglycerides as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of Toxicology, 2015
- Lecithin organogel: A unique micellar system for the delivery of bioactive agents in the treatment of skin aging. Acta Pharmaeutica Sinica B, 2012
