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The By Wishtrend Hydra Enriched Ampoule is a hydrating serum that is full of skin-soothing and healing Aloe vera polysaccharides, and malachite extract, a mineral abundant in copper that has been used for over six thousand years for its ability to heal wounds. This lightweight serum locks in moisture and softens the skin leaving it feeling hydrated throughout the day.
Wishtrend Claims:
This hydrating ampoule contains Aloe Vera Leaf Polysaccharide to keep the skin moisturized for a long period of time. Refreshing moisture when applied once, replenished when applied twice, and fills the moisture barrier when applied three times. The watery and light texture does not leave any sticky feeling and is absorbed into the skin to layer in any step. Recommended for oily / combination skin.
To read more about the Wishtrend, and their other products I have tried and recommend, click here.
Appearance and Scent:
The serum is a beautiful aqua coloured liquid. It is lightweight and has the consistency of water, with the slightest viscosity. Once applied, it absorbs quickly and leaves no oily residue or on the skin. The colour does not transfer or stain the skin. The fragrance-free formula has no detectable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The packaging is a frosted glass bottle, with a glass pipette applicator. Inside the neck of the bottle is a plastic guard that scrapes excess product from the outside of the pipette when withdrawing from the bottle. This ensures the liquid consistency of the serum never spills or drips when applying. The bottle contains 30 ml of product and expires 12 months after opening or 30 months after the date of manufacture.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $35.60 or USD $28.00. I have been using this serum quite liberally, but estimate the 30ml product would last about two months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
After cleansing and toning dispense, 3-4 drops of the ampoule and gently spread over the face. I have been using a full pipette, gently patting on my face and allowing two minutes for the serum to absorb before repeating this step again. This allows me to benefit from maximum hydration and makes my subsequent skincare products and makeup sit better on my skin.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Toner -> Hydra Enriched Ampoule -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser ->Cleanser -> Toner -> Hydra Enriched Ampoule -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Ingredients:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglycerin-3, Propanediol, Malachite Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Glycosyl Trehalose, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Allantoin, Betaine, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Maltodextrin, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Trehalose, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol
Ingredient Analysis:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides are the sugars extracted from the leaf of the Aloe vera succulent plant that grows in dry climates. It has been used by many civilizations throughout history for its ability to soothe, calm, hydrate and heal the skin. The gel substance found within the leaf includes a variety of over 75 active ingredients, including dissolved vitamins, minerals, enzymes, phenolic compounds, sugars and organic acids. The polysaccharides (sugar molecules) found in aloe vera bind water within the skin. Aloe is also able to stimulate fibroblasts which produce collagen and elastin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It is anti-bacterial and is effective in the treatment of acne.
This study found topically applied Aloe vera was able to treat dry skin by improving skin integrity, decreasing the appearance of fine wrinkles and reducing redness.
Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Propanediol is a fatty alcohol used as a penetration enhancing ingredient that is also hydrating and leaves a slightly greasy/oily residue on the skin. It can act as a solvent or an emulsifier and can be added to skincare to reduce the viscosity of the formulation. It can be produced synthetically or by using a non-pathogenic strain of E. coli to ferment corn-derived glucose.
Malachite extract is a liquid mineral extract derived from malachite stone, a natural source of copper and other trace minerals. The use of pulverized malachite dates back to around 4000 BC, with many civilizations, including the Egyptian, Mayans, And Aztecs, all having used it for healing infections and wounds. One of the manufactures of malachite extract; Positive Products Group, claims they have created a process that extracts the stones beneficial components into a purified liquid mineral extract. The extract contains bio-available copper and acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from free radicals that cause oxidative stress. It also promotes detoxification of cells, helps the synthesis and stabilization of proteins, stimulates collagen and elastin and can stabilize the pH levels of the skin. In addition, copper is involved in the synthesis and stabilization of the extracellular matrix of the skin proteins and in the development of new blood vessels.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization to the skin as they are skin-identical molecules that are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized skin cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
Betaine is a naturally occurring amino acid called trimethylglycine. It is extracted from sugar beets (Beta vulgaris) and functions as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant and viscosity increasing agent. It has also been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory and shows some benefits as an antiaging agent that can protect the skin from free radical damage.
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein is a combination of proteins, peptides, and amino acids derived from vegetable sources (usually from wheat, corn, soybeans, or peas). The ingredient functions as a moisturizing and skin conditioning agent. As amino acids are present in the chemical structure, it is able to form a protein-lipid film when applied to the skin, this attracts water and draws moisture into the skin, making it look plump and hydrated.
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, also known as flaxseed extract, is a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids that increase skin hydration levels by preventing moisture loss.
Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism. In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn. When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates. It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin.
Trehalose is a sugar molecule comprised of two glucose units. It helps plants and insects survive extreme conditions. It works topically on the skin as a moisturizer, skin protector and antioxidant. It has the ability to bind to water more strongly than water can bind to itself; because of this property, it is an excellent hydrating agent and can assist the skin in maintaining its structure and prevent transepidermal water loss. As it also forms a film on the surface of the skin, it can protect the skin from itching, burning and irritation.
Houttuynia Cordata Extract comes from the herbaceous plant native to Southeast Asia that has a long history of use in traditional Chinese medicine. It is high in bioactive molecules like flavonoids and exhibits anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
Tocopherol refers to a group of molecules known as Vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant essential for healthy skin. Higher levels are found in the dermis than in the epidermis. Vitamin E is delivered to the skin through sebum but can be applied topically, especially in cases where the diet is lacking. Vitamin E absorbs UV energy and reacts with reactive oxygen species (ROS) which protects the skin from UV-induced free radical damage and provides protection from the damaging effects of UV radiation. It is also able to provide anti-inflammatory properties within the skin.
pH Testing:
I got a result of pH 6. The Wishtrend website says the pH will be between 5.3 and 6.3.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this product can fall just outside the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0) and is higher than the average pH of healthy skin (ph 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. While the pH of this serum is not excessively high, the slightly alkaline pH could affect the health of the skin long-term, which could potentially have the effect of damaging the skins moisture barrier and causing breakouts with extended use. To mitigate the effects of using a product outside of the optimal pH range, I always use this serum after a low pH toner like the Pyuunkyang Yul Essence Toner (you can read my review here).
Results:
I have been using the Hydra Enriched Ampoule twice daily for the past two weeks, and during that time I have seen my skin become more hydrated, but I cannot speak to the long-term effects of this product (I will update my review once I have finished using the entire bottle). Previously I have always reserved Aloe vera containing products for summer as they are especially proven and helping to cool and repair the skin after sunburn or sun exposure, however as it is winter in New Zealand at the moment, my skin has been noticing the effects of the cold weather, and I’ve been finding concentrated hyaluronic acid-containing products too drying when I spent extended time in an environment with airconditioning. This serum has been a nice surprise as it is fitted into my winter routine perfectly and is helping immensely to treat my dehydrated skin. The hydrating effects have lasted all day, and my skin is looking healthy and feeling very comfortable. As some people have a problem with products that contain a high concentration of hyaluronic acid, this serum would be an excellent alternative. I have been applying two layers morning and night as I find this gives me the best results. I also really like the interesting ingredients in the formula and think it is very reasonably priced for the quality of the formulation.
Overall Impressions:
This serum is moisturizing and soothing and works as a good hydrating base for dehydrated skin, or for nurturing skin that has been exposed to harsh environmental conditions. This product is recommended for oily and/or combination skin, but I would recommend it to all skin types. My skin is dehydrated and sensitive and I have found it to be a beneficial and effective addition to my skincare routine.
What I Liked:
- Hydrating and soothing
- Fragrance, essential oil and alcohol-free
- Inexpensive
- layers well with other products
- Contains no unnecessary or sensitizing ingredients
- By Wishtrend is a vegan and cruelty-free brand
What I Disliked:
- The pH of this product is slightly higher than optimal
- The glass packaging is not travel friendly
Disclaimer:
This product was gifted to me by Wishtrend in exchange for an unbiased review.
References:
- Wishtrend website
- Evaluation of aloe vera gel gloves in the treatment of dry skin associated with occupational exposure. American Journal of Infection Control, 2003.
- Aloe vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 2008.
- Cosmetics and toiletries: Positive products group extracts malachite for skin protection and repair, 2020.
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of cosmetic science, 2011.
- Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
- Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review. 3 Biotceh, 2016.
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2014.
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
- Safety assessment of hydrolyzed wheat protein and hydrolyzed wheat glutin used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
- Therapeutic potentials of Houttuynia cordata Thunb. against inflammation and oxidative stress: A review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2018.
- A current update on the phytopharmacological aspects of Houttuynia cordata Thunb. Pharmacognosy Review, 2014.
- Evaluation of the Filming and Protective Properties of a New Trehalose and Ceramides Based Ingredient. Cosmetics, 2019.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981. .Comparison of the moisture retention capacity of Tremella Polyphenols and hyaluronic acid. Science, 2012.
- Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatological Online Journal, 2016.
- Vitamin E and skin health. Oregon State University-Micronutrient Information Centre, 2012.
