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The Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner is a skin repairing toner and essence hybrid made from 91.3% Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, a traditional Chinese medicinal remedy used for treating wounds, and inflammatory conditions. The root contains skin-protecting polysaccharides and UV-absorbing compounds that are capable of protecting against sun damage, strengthening damaged skin, and providing anti-aging benefits.
Pyunkang Yul Claim:
Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner is an ingenious, intensely hydrating formula designed to deliver nutrient-filled moisture to the skin. Water is not present here as 91.3% of this toner is Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract (milk vecht), full of skin-beneficial betaine and minerals. With the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, nutrient-boosting properties of the root extract, this gel-type toner quickly absorbs to hydrate and strengthen skin. Always fragrance, dye, and irritant-free.
Brand Overview:
Pyunkang Yul is a clean skincare line created by the Pyunkang Eastern Medicine Clinic in South Korea. Their brand philosophy is “less is more” and they only use safe and gentle ingredients. They believe that healthy skin is capable of retaining moisture and controlling oil production. To read more about the brand, and their other products I have tried and recommend, click here.
Appearance and Scent:
The constancy is similar to that of water, which makes it easily absorbed into the skin. Even after multiple layers, it absorbs completely and feels hydrating without leaving any residue or sticky finish. The scent is a mild herbal fragrance that dissipates when applied to the skin.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The toner comes in a 200 ml plastic bottle. The expiry is 24 months from the date of manufacture.
Cost and number of uses:
The Punkang Yul Essence Toner retails for NZD $22.50 or US $ 14.50. I found each bottle to have lasted about four months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
Take an adequate amount of toner and gently pat it into the skin. Repeat three to five times if the skin is particularly dry. The toner can be used as a mask by saturating a cotton pad and applying it to the skin.
Formulation Science:
The toner was tested by the Punkang Korean Medicine Skin Laboratory on 110 people over a two week period. Of the participants, 90% reported dryness had eased, 83% reported skin had become healthy and shiny and 86% reported dead skin cells were eliminated.
The formula contains a water-soluble silicone. Historically it was believed that silicones ‘clog’ pores or prevents the skin from breathing. This has been proven to be incorrect, in fact, silicones are considered to be one of the most breathable occlusive ingredients. They have been included in this formula to give the toner a ‘slip’ that allows subsequent applications or skincare products to absorb more readily.
Ingredients:
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Arginine
Ingredient Analysis:
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, also known as milk vetch or Huáng Qí, is a flowering plant that has long been used in traditional Chinese medicine for its healing and soothing properties. It is known for strengthening the immune system, reducing inflammation, and acting as an antioxidant. The main components are polysaccharides, flavonoids, and saponins. Pharmacological research indicates the extract components have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, immunoregulatory, anti-cancer, and anti-aging effects.
This study compared Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract with Marshmellow Root Extract. Both were found to significantly reduce UVA-induced DNA damage in cultured skin fibroblasts. The authors proposed this was the most likely due to the extracted phytochemicals protecting the skin against UVA-induced oxidative stress.
Butylene glycol is a common ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is very efficient at enhancing the penetration of active ingredients and acts as a humectant and solvent with antimicrobial properties. It can be used to decrease the viscosity of a formulation or to mask unpleasant odours. It is considered to be non-toxic and non-irritating when applied topically.
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a water-dispensable silicone that gives a slily, slippery feeling to formulas with a watery consistency.
Carbomers are a group of synthetic, high molecular weight polymers that are used as thickeners and suspending agents, capable of stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. They are considered to be a safe cosmetic ingredient and are present in many products.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits, but studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 4.3.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this toner is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). The pH is a skin-friendly 4.3 that will help to return the skin to its optimal acidity level after cleansing. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Results:
I love this toner and have purchased three bottles, and will continue to reuse them, especially during the winter months. It was the first toner I tried when I learned about the 7-toner method or 7-skin method, as it is commonly known in Korean skincare. The method involves gently patting a layer of a hydrating toner onto the skin, allowing it to absorb and repeating, up to seven times. While this can be a time-consuming addition to a route, the method has retained its popularity because it really does work. Skin is visibly plumped, hydrated, and glowing afterwards. The science behind the method is relatively simple, wet skin is more receptive to absorbing moisture, so by layering seven times, the skin will retain more product than if a large amount is applied all at once. The most important consideration with this method is never to use a toner with active ingredients (like acids), or one with alcohol or irritating ingredients as this will increase the amount of exposure and damage the skin. At the time, I had dry, dehydrated, and irritated skin. This method and this toner were a miracle for me. My skin retained moisture, fine lines disappeared, and makeup applied like a dream. I followed with a serum (at the time I was using the Punkang Yul Moisture Serum), which helped lock the moisture into my skin. I have tried a few other toners with this method but have never had the same result.
Overall Impressions:
This essence toner is soothing and nourishing and works as a good hydrating base for repairing damaged skin, or before applying strong active ingredients. It helps to restore the skin’s pH level after cleansing, and strengthen the moisture barrier, healing damaged skin and improving overall skin health. Any skin type would benefit from using this product.
Things I Liked:
- pH balanced at 4.3
- Simple ingredient list
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and essential oils
- Affordable
- A high amount of active ingredients, and no water present in the formula
- Safe for sensitive skin
- Cruelty-free
Things I Disliked:
- Some people prefer not to have silicone in their skincare
Sources:
- An Evaluation of Root Phytochemicals Derived from Althea officinalis (Marshmallow) and Astragalus membranaceus as Potential Natural Components of UV Protecting Dermatological Formulations. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2016.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Dipropylene Glycol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1985.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2001.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Carbomers-934, -910, -934P, -940, -941, and -962. International Journal of Toxicology, 1990.
