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The elmt Gentle Exfoliating Solution is a mild chemical exfoliant that contains two alpha-hydroxy acids and a vitamin C derivative that is more stable and well-tolerated than pure vitamin C (L–Ascorbic Acid). It also contains a high concentration of blueberry and raspberry fruit extracts both of which contain a multitude of antioxidants and promote collagen synthesis. This gentle formula provides mild daily cell turnover without damaging the moisture barrier, making this a versatile and effective product that is gentle enough for daily use.
Wishtrend recently launched a new formula-driven brand called elmt (pronounced element), which was lead by a group of researchers who aim to find the best skincare solutions through purposeful formulas created for maximum effectiveness. I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to test out two of their products in exchange for an honest review.
the elmt range currently consists of three other products in addition to this one.
- Advanced Calming Solution with 59.1% Centella asiatica extract and Snow Mushroom Polysaccharide (read my review here).
- Skin Illumination Solution with 10% Niacinamide and 51.9% Grape and Pomegranate Extract
- Skin Activating Solution with 58% Green tea complex and 14.7% Chinese skullcap
elmt Claims:
This solution gently but effectively exfoliates the complexion while keeping it moisturized and supple all at once. The Gentle Exfoliating Solution is formulated with AHA and vitamin C, which work together to remove dead skin cells to uncover your skin’s inner glow. To help balance the exfoliating properties, an antioxidant-rich super berry complex composed of 49.02% blueberry and raspberry extracts reduces inflammation and irritation, while also promoting cell turnover. All combined, you have a great daily exfoliator.
The best way for anyone to exfoliate their skin is to gently remove dead skin without destroying the skin’s natural turnover function. Therefore, we created an exfoliating solution that combines AHA with flower acid. Flower acid contains alpha keto-acids (AKA), which gently dissolves the proteins that hold the dead skin to the skin’s outer layer, allowing for effective, non-irritating exfoliation. The Gentle Exfoliating Solution is formulated with blueberry and raspberry extracts, which reduce the irritation of AHA while increasing its exfoliative properties than when used alone.
elmt is “Skincare Unframed” a formula driven skincare brand led by a group of researchers. High quality ingredients are reimagined into the best skincare solutions through purposeful formulas created for maximum effectiveness.
Appearance and Scent:
The calming solution is a lightweight liquid that is the consistency of water. Once applied, it absorbs quickly. It initially can feel slightly tacky, but this goes away as it absorbs into the skin. The fragrance-free formula has no detectable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The packaging is a transparent green glass bottle, with a screw cap lid. The bottle contains 150ml of product and expires 12 months after opening or 30 months after the date of manufacture.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $27.50 or USD $20.00. I have found only a small amount is required and estimate the 150ml product lasts about four months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
After cleansing, use the palm of your hands to gently apply and pat the solution onto the skin. Or, dampen a cotton pad with solution and gently sweep it over the face and neck. This solution can be used morning and night to tone, prep skin for following skincare steps, and refresh, nourish, and hydrate the complexion.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Gentle Exfoliating Solution -> Serum -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser -> Cleanser -> Gentle Cleansing Solution -> Serum -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Formulation Science:
The product contains the AHA’s (alpha-hydroxy acid) exfoliants glycolic and lactic acid. One of the most beneficial effects of hydroxy acids are the improvements to photoaged skin and include an improvement in discolouration and pigmentation and an increase in the density of collagen and elastin fibres. AHA’s exfoliate the surface layer of the skin by breaking down the glue that holds the dead skin cells together. They also help strengthen the skin barrier, provide antioxidant benefits, and moisturize the skin.
L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) has been widely used as an antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient for many years. However, some of the physiochemical properties make this ingredient difficult to use in skincare. These include the limited uptake into the skin, instability of the molecule which is really oxidised when exposed to light and air and a reliance on an acidic pH of the formulation (between 2.0 and 3.5). The Vitamin C derivative 3–0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has been developed as a stable vitamin C alternative that is soluble in both water and oil, less likely to oxidise, and less dependent on a low pH. It is also been reported to be effective in treating pigmentation such as melasma, protecting from UV exposure and free radicals and increases collagen production. It metabolised by the body into L-Ascorbic Acid and is also one of the most stable Vitamin C derivatives which is able to penetrate deeper into the skin without causing the same level of irritation as L-Ascorbic Acid.
Ingredients:
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Trehalose, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Panthenol, Allantoin
Ingredient Analysis:
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract comes from the ancient genus of plants that can be dated back more than 100 million years. The berries are a potent antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient due to their high polyphenol, Vitamin C and anthocyanin content. These compounds help prevent oxidative stress and inflammation and support collagen synthesis.
Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is the salt derived from licorice root extract. It is extracted from the root of the Glycyrrhia glabra, a plant known to possess many medicinal properties. It is one of the oldest herbal remedies with a rich history of medical medicine. Its ongoing use is evolving so much so it has been referred to as “the plant of the future”. The root contains over 300 compounds that have been shown to be anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-ulcer anti-oxidant agents. The extract improves hyperpigmentation by dispersing melanin within the skin, inhibiting melanin biosynthesis and decreasing free radical production. The main component is the polyphenolic flavonoid Glabridin. Studies have shown that glabridin prevents UVB induced pigmentation and exerts anti-inflammatory effects. It has also been in the treatment of dermatitis, eczema and acne.
Trehalose is a sugar molecule comprised of two glucose units. It helps plants and insects survive extreme conditions. It works topically on the skin as a moisturizer, skin protector and antioxidant. It has the ability to bind to water more strongly than water can bind to itself. Because of this property, it is an excellent hydrating agent and can assist the skin in maintaining its structure and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As it also forms a film on the surface of the skin, it can protect from itching, burning and irritation.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, is a derivative of Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), the most abundant antioxidant in the skin. It is an essential water-soluble micronutrient that plays a central role as a cofactor and several enzymatic reactions and cellular processes including collagen synthesis, cellular oxidation, and is instrumental in the protection of cells against oxidative damage caused by free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that accumulate and cause diseases like cancer, and ageing associated with oxidative stress. Vitamin C has been shown to be effective at wound healing, and this is directly related to its ability to act as a cofactor for the synthesis of new collagen.
Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract contains a high concentration of important nutrients, bioactive compounds, antioxidants, anthocyanins, tannins, Vitamin C and Vitamin E. Raspberry is one of the only fruits which naturally produces salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) which is an effective ingredient for treating acne-prone skin. Skincare products that contain raspberry extracts can restore the collagen production for skin elasticity and firmness.
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is extracted from milk. It works to renew and exfoliate the skin by breaking down the material that holds the top layer of dead skin cells together, unclogging pores. AHA’s are hydrophilic meaning they attract water and bind water within the skin, plumping the appearance of fine lines.
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that is derived from sugar cane. It has a small molecular size which allows fit to penetrate deep into the skin. It is a strong chemical exfoliant as the smaller the size of the AHA molecule, the deeper the absorption into the skin.
Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism. In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn. When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates. It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin.
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
pH Analysis:
I got a result of pH 4.2. The Wishtrend website says the pH will be between 3.0 and 4.0.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this product is on the lower side of the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. This acidic pH means it would function well as a chemical exfoliant as AHA’s work best at a lower pH range.
Results:
I have been only using the Gentle Exfoliating Solution for the past three weeks, but during that time I have seen my skin become more glowing and bright looking. I previously used weaker AHA acids like lactic or mandelic acid on a sporadic basis, but by using this product daily or every other day, my skin was really able to benefit from the ‘little but often’ approach. As my skin is sensitive to acids, and I recently had IPL treatments, I found my preferred way of incorporating this product into my routine was to dilute it with the elmt Advanced Calming Solution (which I was trying at the same time, you can read my review here), so I could get all the skin-soothing benefits of the Centella asiatica without stripping my moisture barrier. Although this formula would be gentle enough to use without dilation for anyone without very reactive skin.
Overall Impressions:
The Gentle Exfoliating Solution is full of gentle, skin-supporting ingredients that are of great benefit when combined with chemical exfoliants. The inclusion of a stable Vitamin C derivative and the formulation also makes sense as antioxidants protect the skin from sun damage, while the brightening and collagen promoting benefits from the AHA’s in the formula, provide cell turnover. This formula has been created at a pH level low enough to provide exfoliation but close enough to that healthy skin to be unlikely to cause irritation. The addition of other ingredients that are effective in treating pigmentation will also help brighten the skin. This formula would work perfectly for those whose skin is sensitive to strong chemical exfoliants, anyone using retinol, those with acne or dermatitis or those who spend a lot of time outdoors. It’s important to remember to wear sunscreen continuously when using this product (even on the days this product hasn’t been used) as chemical exfoliants will increase the sun sensitivity of skin in an accumulative way.
What I Liked:
- Acts as an exfoliant, antioxidant and brightening treatment
- Contains a mild concentration of chemical exfoliants
- Fragrance, essential oil and alcohol-free
- Inexpensive and lasts a long time
- layers well with other products
- elmt is a vegan and cruelty-free brand
What I Disliked:
- The glass packaging is not travel friendly
Disclaimer:
This product was gifted to me by Wishtrend in exchange for an unbiased review.
References:
- Wishtrend website
- Blueberries and Their Anthocyanins: Factors Affecting Biosynthesis and Properties. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 2011.
- Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions. Cosmetics, 2018.
- The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2003.
- Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 2013.
- Glycyrrhiza glabra – A plant for the future. Mintage Journal of Pharmaceutical and Medical Sciences, 2013.
- Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer. International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2016.
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of cosmetic science, 2011.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981. .Comparison of the moisture retention capacity of Tremella Polyphenols and hyaluronic acid. Science, 2012.
- Therapeutic perspective of vitamin C and its derivatives. Antioxidants, 2019.
- The roles of vitamin C and skin health. Nutrients, 2017.
- Evaluation of the Filming and Protective Properties of a New Trehalose and Ceramides Based Ingredient. Cosmetics, 2019.
