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The Innisfree Derma Green Tea Probiotics Cream is infused with 10 parts per million Lactobacillus ferment lysate, a post-biotic ingredient produced from fermented green tea from the Jeju Island in Korea. This enhances the already powerful antioxidants of green tea and makes them and other vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and organic acids more bioavailable for the skin to utilise.
Innisfree Claim:
Innisfree Derma Formula Green Tea Probiotics Cream is a deep moisturizing cream that repairs strengthens and protects the skin barrier from external aggressors such as air pollution and weather changes. It not only brightens the skin and improves skin elasticity, but it also leaves the skin feeling hydrated and plump for up to 48 hours. This gentle and mild formula does not contain any artificial or harmful ingredients, such as fragrance, artificial colouring, parabens, and sulphates, that may cause irritation or sensitivity to the skin.
About the brand:
Innisfree is an eco-conscious brand and part of the AmorePacific umbrella that owns some of the most well-known K-beauty brands like Laneige, AmorePacific and Sulwhasoo. They utilize naturally derived ingredients from the islands of Jeju, off the coast of South Korea. This product joins the Innisfree Green Tea line which comprises about 15% of their total sales.
Appearance and Scent:
The moisturizer is a white, lightweight, gel-like cream texture that glides on the skin. It is hydrating, yet absorbs easily after a couple of minutes. The fragrance-free formula has no detectable scent.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The moisturizer comes in a sturdy plastic tub with a screw-cap lid. No spatula is included. The size is 50 mL and the expiry is 12 months after opening.
How to Use:
As the last step of your skincare routine (before sunscreen if applying in the morning), take a moderate amount, and apply gently. Pat lightly for better absorption.
Price and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $35 or USD $25. The container lasted me around five months with daily use.
Formulation Science:
The formula contains Lactocobacillus bacterial ferment lysate. Fermented products are produced when bacteria are grown on a nutrient-rich substrate. The bacteria in the resulting broth are then destroyed, so that cell contents and parts of the cell walls and cytoplasm are kept in the solution. This is referred to as a lysate and serves as a nutritional source for the resident, helpful bacteria that naturally colonize healthy skin. This helps reduce inflammation within the skin in the same way that has been shown by taking oral probiotic strains. Clinical studies have already reported that topical probiotics are capable of exerting skin health effects such as improving eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burns, and scars, rejuvenating the skin, and improving the skin’s innate immunity.
Beneficial ingredients for the skin that are abundant in bacterial lysates include hyaluronic acid, sphingomyelinase (an enzyme essential for ceramide production), lipoteichoic acid, and peptidoglycan, which stimulate the innate immune system and increase the production of antimicrobial peptides. Acetic acid, an antibacterial substance, and diacetyl, an antimicrobial agent that is effective against gram-negative pathogenic bacterial strains like Pseudomonas species and E. coli.
Ingredients:
Water, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA (16,000 ppm), C14-22 Alcohols, Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide MEA (14,000 ppm), Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Palmitic Acid, Cholesterol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Dextrin, Ceramide NP (80 ppm), Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Phytosphingosine, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Myristic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Glucose, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate (10 ppm), Tocopherol
Ingredient Analysis:
Butylene glycol is a common ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is very efficient at enhancing the penetration of active ingredients and acts as a humectant and solvent with antimicrobial properties. It can be used to decrease the viscosity of a formulation or to mask unpleasant odours. It is considered to be non-toxic and non-irritating when applied topically.
Squalene is a skin-identical ingredient naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and is a constituent of sebum along with triglycerides and wax esters. Its function is to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier of the skin. The amount of squalene produced by the skin decreases from the age of 30. It is an intermediate and the pathway that synthesises cholesterol, another important skin lipid. By comprising 13%, it is the main component of the skin surface lipids. It is showing promise as a treatment for the skin as an emollient, antioxidant, humectant and anti-tumour agent.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
C14-22 Alcohols are a combination of fatty alcohols 14 to 22 carbon atoms long. In skincare formulations, this combination is sold under the brand name Monotanov L, and functions as an emulsifier that is used to thicken skincare products. It does not irritate the skin and can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and provides moisture to the skin.
Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA and Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide MEA are pseudoceramides, or synthetic ceramides created to mimic the effects of ceramides naturally present in the skin. Ceramides form an essential part of the lipid layer along with cholesterol, and free fatty acid’s. The topical application of synthetic ceramides has been shown to significantly increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and increase the amount of water within the skin.
Cholesterol is a low molecular weight oil that plays an essential role in the structure and fluidity of cell membranes and helps regulate the disqualification process. Together with ceramides and free fatty acids, they comprise the epidermal lipids that fill the spaces between skin cells.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract comes from the tea plant and is an abundant source of bioactive compounds. In the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, tea extracts provide strong antioxidant activity by strengthening blood vessels and increasing microcirculation. In the deeper skin layers, tea polyphenols offer significant UV light protection by absorbing UVB radiation as well as acting directly on various enzymes. These effects can delay skin ageing by downregulating enzymes responsible for degrading hyaluronic acid, lipids, collagen, and elastin. Tea polyphenols and catechins (EGCG being the most bioactive), also display antioxidant activity due to their free radical scavenging ability, decelerating the inflammatory process.
Ceramide NP (or ceramide 3) is a lipid naturally found in the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, which is composed of dead cells and acts act as a protective barrier. They are the major structural components of the epidermal permeability barrier. The main function of ceramides within the skin is to control the growth and differentiation of cells when they are in the process of becoming specialized. Alterations of ceramide content are resultant in several skin diseases like atopic dermatitis. Ceramides added to skincare function by improving the overall barrier function of the skin.
Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid found naturally in the upper layers of the skin. It is a type of sphingoid base, a long-chain molecule that links to long-chain free fatty acids to form ceramides. They are important for the integrity of the stratum corneum’s barrier function.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient that is produced when the cell membrane of the gram-positive bacterium Lactobacillus bulgaricus is broken or lysed. This releases the contents of the cell, which then can be used by resident skin flora (the good bacteria that live on the skin and keep it healthy) for growth. The Manufacturer, Active Concepts claims it is able to increase cellular respiration, collagen synthesis has soothing properties and can increase ATP (cellular energy) synthesis.
Tocopherol refers to a group of molecules known as Vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant essential for healthy skin. Higher levels are found in the dermis than in the epidermis. Vitamin E is delivered to the skin through sebum but can be applied topically, especially in cases where the diet is lacking. Vitamin E absorbs UV energy and reacts with reactive oxygen species (ROS) which protects the skin from UV-induced free radical damage and provides protection from the damaging effects of UV radiation. It is also able to provide anti-inflammatory properties within the skin. These effects are enhanced when combined with vitamin C. It is added to skincare for its ability to protect collagen from degradation by ROS.
pH Testing:
I got a pH result of 5.9.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this cream is just within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0),. This makes this an ideal moisturizer to nourish and protect the skin moisture barrier. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Results:
I like this moisturizer and may repurchase it for daytime use in summer. I have tried using it in winter as both a nighttime occlusive layer and in the morning as a light-weight hydrating layer before I apply sun protection, but it’s just not hydrating enough for my combination skin that is prone to dehydration. I do like how it absorbs completely and sits perfectly under both sunscreen and makeup, and would be perfect for anyone looking for a lightweight moisturizer that is compatible with oily or acne-prone skin.
Overall Impressions:
This is a nice moisturizer that is formulated with ingredients that nourish and protect the skin moisture barrier. It would suit oily skin or use in the summer, but may not be hydrating enough for dry or mature skin types. The ingredients list is impressive and I love anything that incorporates probiotics and ceramides. I do, however, I do wish the Lactobacillus ferment was higher up on the ingredient list. Manufactures of Lactobacillus ferment lysate recommend using the ingredient in 2-5% concentration. This formula only contains the ingredient as the second to last on the list. This is disappointing and somewhat false advertising in my opinion, as the cream is marketed as a probiotic formula. It does, however, contain a good amount of ceramides and green tea extract. The other disadvantage for me is the packaging. I wish it came in an airless pump instead of an unhygienic tub. Even when using a clean spatula, the product is still exposed to some level of contamination, and the formula is exposed to light and air. I have been using this for about three months now, and have nearly finished the tub. I find a little goes a long way and it layers with all other skincare products I have used before and after applying.
Things I Liked:
- Formulated within the pH range of healthy skin
- Contains quality ingredients
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and preservatives
- Hydrating and skin-repairing
- Suitable for all skin types including acne-prone and sensitive
- Innisfree is an eco-conscious and cruelty-free brand
Things I Disliked:
- The packaging is unhygienic and not light or airproof
- Active ingredients could be present in higher quantities
- May not be suitable for mature or dry skin types
Sources:
- Treatment with Synthetic Pseudoceramide Improves Atopic Skin, Switching the Ceramide Profile to a Healthy Skin Phenotype. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2020.
- Biological and pharmacological archives of squalene and related compounds. Potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules, 2009.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2001.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Dipropylene Glycol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1985.
- Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatological Online Journal, 2016.
- Vitamin E and skin health. Oregon State University-Micronutrient Information Centre, 2012.
- Heess.all.biz products catalogue
- Applications of tea (Camellia sinensis) and it’s active constituents in cosmetics. Molecules, 2019.
- Recent advances on topical application of ceramides to restore barrier function of skin. Cosmetics, 2019.
- New Skin-healing chemicals. Science Daily, 2007.
- The structure, function, and importance of ceramics in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, 2014.
- Epidermal surface lipids. Dermato Endicrinology, 2009.
- Active Concepts http://activeconceptsllc.com/products/botanical-extracts/acb-yogurt-dermal-respiratory-factor-pf/
