Introducing my personalized skincare consultation service. Please fill out the form below to begin your journey to flawless skin.
[wpforms id="3267" title="false"]
The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is a lightweight fermented version of squalene, the main component of the lipids produced by the skin. This dry oil is easily absorbed, is suitable for all skin types and is perfect for anyone looking for a light and hydrating alternative to thick and heavy skincare products. Squalane is recognised by the skin and helps to visibly improve the long term health of the skins moisture barrier.
The Ordinary Claims:
Hemi-Squalane is a non-polar hydrocarbon that is produced from the fermentation of sugar-based feedstock. Squalane and Hemi-Squalane are both excellent non-comedogenic emollients that can help to reduce the ongoing loss of hydration that weakens dermal elasticity and suppleness. However, due to its low molecular weight, Hemi-Squalane has greater spreadability and leaves a light and dry after-feel, making it very suitable for reducing hair frizz.
Appearance and Scent:
The oil is thin and only slightly thicker than the consistency of water. Despite being an oil, it absorbs quickly and leaves almost no oily residue on the skin. There is no added fragrance or discernable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The Ordinary products all come in simple, uncomplicated packaging, and the light-proof glass dropper bottle is no exception. This gives the advantage of being hygienic and allowing the price point of the product to remain low. Unfortunately, it does not protect the product from exposure to air and the glass can break during travelling. The bottle contains 30ml of product and expires six months after opening.
Cost and number of uses:
The Ordinary 100% Plant-derived Hemi-squalane retails for NZD $7.20 or US $5.00. My current bottle has lasted me around five months.
How to Use:
Apply a few drops to cleansed face in the morning and/or evening after applying water-based serums or moisturisers. To prevent frizz apply a few drops to the ends when the hair when it is about 90% air-dried. It can also be used on the hair and scalp as a pre-shampoo treatment.
Formulation Analysis:
Squalene is a skin-identical ingredient naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and makes up 13% of the composition of sebum along with triglycerides and wax esters. Its function is to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier of the skin. The amount of squalene naturally produced by the skin starts to decrease from the age of 30.
The Ordinary has two squalane based oils, the Plant-derived Squalene and the Hemi-Squalene. As the Hemi-Squalane is half the molecular weight of their Plant-Derived Squalane, it is lighter and drier than the original and a better choice for anyone who dislikes the feel of oil or wants to incorporate it into it their morning skincare routine.
Squalene was first isolated and extracted from shark livers (Squalus species), hence the name. While this is still considered the richest source, consumer demand for ethically sourced ingredients has seen extraction shift to plant-based sources, Like olive oil, palm oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil.
The process of dehydrogenation is used to convert the unstable squalene to squalane for use as a cosmetic ingredient. Squalane more stable and less easily oxidised version of squalene. It is distributed ubiquitously in human tissues, with the greatest concentration found in the skin.
Squalane Skin Benefits:
- Acts as an antioxidant
- Maintains healthy-looking skin by softening and soothing the skin
- Maintains the skins moisture barrier by preventing water loss
- Reduces frizz, acts as a heat protectant, adds shine and reduce breakage of hair
Squalane is non-comedogenic and is suitable for use on all skin types.
Ingredients:
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Ingredient Analysis:
C13-16 Isoparaffin. Isoparaffins are branched-chain hydrocarbons with the number that follows the C representing the number of carbons in the chain. Isoparaffins are biologically unreactive and function as emollients by softening and soothing the skin. The molecule is too large to be absorbed into the skin, so it is able to form a semi-occlusive film over the skin that prevents moisture loss due to evaporation. This makes it especially useful for people with dry or flaking skin. When applied to the hair, it forms a smooth layer over the hair shaft, smoothing the cuticle and reducing frizz and adding shine. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded isoparaffins are safe for use in cosmetics. Some concern around this ingredient used to exist because it has historically been derived from petroleum. , Deciem sources its Isoparaffin from the fermentation of sugarcane, which is renewable and sustainable.
pH Testing:
The formula is water-free, therefore does not have a pH value.
Results:
Because of the low molecular weight of squalane, the oil is lightweight and absorbs into the skin rather than just sitting on top like some oils can do. Anyone who has oily skin is afraid to use a face oil because they worry it will make their skin oilier, this is a great oil to add to your routine. The skin tends to go into overdrive producing oil when it is dry and dehydrated to prevent further moisture loss, so by regulatory applying an oil, the skin will produce less sebum over time, balancing oil production. This is true of any oil, but I prefer to use one the skin recognises as similar to its own lipid composition, and this works beautifully. It is also ethically sourced, cruelty-free and one of the best value squalane products on the market.
Overall Impressions:
I have been using The Ordinary’s Plant-Derived Squalane for years as I have found my dehydrated skin responds really well to oils. I originally bought the Hemi-Squalane version for my hair, as I have always frizz but want to avoid using silicone-based products. While this does do an excellent job of conditioning and reducing frizz, I primarily use it on my face and hands as it has been so effective at helping retain moisture in my skin. I much prefer this version and find it is light enough to use in the mornings without causing my sunscreen or foundation to break down. I use a small amount on my dry patches and under the eye area during the day to keep my dehydrated skin supple, which helps my concealer and foundation apply so much smoother. I also add a couple of drops to my liquid foundation on days I want a lighter more natural coverage.
What I Liked:
- Fragrance, alcohol, and preservative-free
- Inexpensive and effective
- Simple, hygienic, and lightproof packaging
- Contains no unnecessary or sensitizing ingredients
- Ingredients are sustainably sourced
- The Ordinary is cruelty-free
What I Disliked:
- Reasonably short shelf-life
- The packaging does not protect active ingredients from the air
- Glass packaging may not be travel friendly
References:
- The Ordinary Website
- Biological and pharmacological archives of squalene and related compounds. Potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules, 2009.
- 1,4-Dioxane and Cosmetic Safety, C13-14 IsoParaffins as used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2010
- Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2012.
- INOLEX Presents Natural Alternatives to Restricted Silicones. Cosmetics and Toiletries 2018.
