By Wishtrend Pure Vitamin C 15% with Ferulic Acid – Review

Introducing my personalized skincare consultation service. Please fill out the form below to begin your journey to flawless skin.

[wpforms id="3267" title="false"]

The By Wishtrend Pure Vitamin C 15% with Ferulic Acid is a well-formulated serum that combines the results of scientifically studied ingredients that work synergistically to provide the skin with anti-oxidant and UV protection, while decreasing the effects of sun damage and scarring. It gives a beatifical glow to the skin, and the formula is non-sticky and comfortable to wear daily. It contains pure vitamin c and two other more stable vitamin c derivatives and niacinamide to visibly brighten the skin with minimal chance of irritation.

Wishtrend Claims:

This vitamin c serum contains 15% pure vitamin c which helps with antioxidant care, skin brightening, acne prevention, boost collagen, and recovers the skin from UV rays. As it contains ferulic acid, it maximizes the antioxidant and antibacterial effect of vitamin c. Recommended for oily and combination skin and for vitamin c beginners.

To read more about the Wishtrend, and their other products I have tried and recommend, click here.

Appearance and Scent:

The constancy is similar to that of water, which makes it easily absorbed into the skin, but can make application slightly messy. It feels very light weight and absorbs without any residual stickiness. The fragrance free formula has a very slight vitamin c scent.

Packaging, Size and Expiry:

The serum comes in a dark brown glass bottle with an eyedrop applicator. It is packaged with a sealed screw cap with a plastic security seal. The dropper comes separately in a sealed bag plastic bag. This minimises the risk of accidental spillage during shipping and helps prevent oxidation of the ingredients. The bottle contains 30 mls of product and expires six months after opening, and two years after manufacture. This size bottle lasted me for approximately four months with generous daily application. Wishtrend advises this product to be kept refrigerated once opened to extend the stability of the formula. I didn’t do this, but instead kept it away from direct sunlight in a dark drawer. Never keep skincare in the bathroom as the heat and humidity will decrease the shelf life dramatically.

Cost and Number of Uses:

The Pure Vitamin C 15% with Ferulic Acid retails for NZD $47.70 or US $30.00. This serum lasted me about four months with daily use.

How to Use:

After cleansing and toning, dispense 3-4 drops of the serum and gently pat into the skin until fully absorbed. Follow with the rest of your skincare routine and always use sunscreen during the day. Use in the morning to provide additional UV protection. Avoid using products that contain hydroxy acids or retinol at the same time as Vitamin c containing products.

Formulation Science:

Healthy skin naturally contains a high concentration of vitamin c when compared to other body tissues, and skin has a higher concentration than that of plasma, suggesting it actively accumulates in the skin after transportation to the cells from blood cells. Several studies have shown that vitamin c levels are lower in aged individuals or those with photodamaged skin. If the plasma concentration of vitamin c is low, it can be applied topically to the epidermal layer of the skin, however, the effectiveness of this depends largely on the formulation of the vitamin c containing product. As vitamin c is a water-soluble and a charged molecule, it is repelled by the physical barrier of epidermal cells. Only when the pH level is below 4, and if the vitamin c is present as ascorbic acid then some penetration into the epidermis can occur.

Ascorbic acid is highly sensitive to air and light and as such is very difficult to prevent oxidation in cosmetic preparations. Studies performed on pigs, have suggested that formulations with a pH below 3.5 will result in greater penetration of the ascorbic acid into the skin.  Vitamin c is also very unstable when mixed with water and can oxidize into the dark yellow coloured dehydroascorbic acid (DHAA).

This product was formulated with a low pH (I got a result of 3.2 when I tested my bottle), this combined with the addition of ascorbic acid as an ingredient, the inclusion of two more stable vitamin c derivatives, and the light-proof packaging, makes this an excellently formulated product that is likely to be very effective in reducing pigmentation and improving the overall skin tone.

This product was inspired by the Skinceuticals C E Ferulic serum which is well known for its effectiveness. According to SkincCeuticals: “SkinCeuticals research shows that specific combinations of antioxidants, when effectively formulated, perform synergistically to provide results superior to each single antioxidant formulation. Published in 8 peer-reviewed scientific journals, C E Ferulic is a vitamin C serum formulated under the Duke Antioxidant patent. Vitamin c is a highly-potent antioxidant that is, by its structure, difficult to effectively deliver on skin. The Duke Antioxidant patent describes the formulation parameters required for effective delivery of vitamin c to skin: 1) pure l-ascorbic acid (vitamin C); 2) an acidic pH within the 2.0-3.5 pH range and; 3) a concentration between 10%-20%. SkinCeuticals is the only brand to formulate antioxidants according to these parameters”.

The SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic contains:

• 15% L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C)
• 1% Alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E)
• 0.5% Ferulic acid
• a pH of 2.0-3.5

The SkinCeuticals serum has 1800+ 5 star reviews and the science shows it is very effective, but the main disadvantage is the price. It retails for NZD $233 or US $166 for 30 ml. While the patent stops other brands from copying the exact concentration of the key ingredients, brands like Wishtrend have created serums they hope will work similarly and still produce the same benefits, without all the expense that SkinCeuticals put into the research and development of their product.

By comparison the By Wishtrend Pure 15% Vitamin C with Ferulic contains:

• 15% L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C)
• An unspecified concentration of Tocopheryl Acetate (a vitamin E)
• 0.5% Ferulic acid
• A pH of between 2.0-3.5. The exact pH is not specified on the website, but I got a result of 3.2

Ingredients:

Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Ethoxydiglycol, Ascorbic Acid, Diglycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, C12-14 Pareth-12, Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether, Tromethamine, Ferulic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Calcium Pantothenate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine HCl, Silica

Ingredient Analysis:

Hippophae rhamnoides water also known as Sea-buckthorn, is extracted from the fruit and seeds of the Hippophae rhamniodes plant. The plant possesses a number of active ingredients that are commonly used in many cosmetic products to give skin a healthy appearance. It is especially useful in treating dry, flaky or ageing skin due to its unique unsaturated fatty acid composition, which includes, palmitoleic acid (omega-7) and gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6).  It is able to easily pass through the epidermis, softening skin and improving elasticity. The gamma-linoleic acid is converted to prostaglandins, offering protection against infection, allergies and inflammation resulting in anti-ageing and improving the appearance of scars and enhancing wound healing.

This study published in the International Journal of Pharmacological Science looked at the changes in skin barrier function following long-term application of 5% sea-buckthorn oil and water emulsion. The 13 subjects applied either the emotion or a placebo for 12 weeks. The emulsion containing the sea buckthorn resulted in significant improvements in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and a significant improvement in the skin barrier function was observed.

Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin c, is the most abundant antioxidant in the skin. It is an essential water-soluble micronutrient that plays in a central role as a cofactor and several enzymatic reactions and cellular processes including collagen synthesis, cellular oxidation, and is instrumental in the protection of cells against oxidative damage caused by free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that accumulate and cause disease like cancer, and ageing associated with oxidative stress. Vitamin c has been shown to be effective at wound healing, and this is directly related to its ability to act as a cofactor for the synthesis of new collagen.

Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether is a derivative of Vitamin c (L-Ascorbic Acid) that is very stable (compared to ascorbic acid and other derivatives). It is soluble in either oil or water.  It works as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory and can boost collagen production and brighten skin.  As it is a new derivative, there are limited clinical studies on its effectiveness compared to other, more well-researched forms of vitamin c.

Ferulic acid is a common component of plant tissues that protects the plant from UV damage and functions as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-cancer agent. It has a protective role for many skin structures, including keratinocytes, fibroblasts, collagen and elastin, and accelerates wound healing. It is commonly added to skincare for its photoprotective, anti-ageing and brightening and anti-acne properties; however, its use is limited because it is readily oxidized.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of Vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that is an important precursor of many oxidation-reduction coenzymes involved in over 40 cellular biochemical reactions.  In addition, it can act as an antioxidant to improve epidermal barrier function, reduce hyperpigmentation, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce redness, and improve skin elasticity. Niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin by upregulating the synthesis of ceramides and intercellular lipids and by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation. 

This study published in the Journal of Dermatology showed an improvement in a trial with 2% niacinamide was able to increase ceramide synthesis by 2.3 fold, cholesterol synthesis by 1.5 fold, and increased free fatty acid levels in the stratum corneum and decreased transepidermal water loss.

This study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, involved 50 females with photodamaged skin using 5% niacinamide twice daily for three months showed an improvement in hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles red blotchiness, skin shallowness, and increased skin elasticity.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is the sodium salt of Vitamin c.  It is a more water-soluble and light stable derivative that functions in the same way as pure vitamin c (L-Ascorbic Acid). It is converted once it has absorbed into the skin to L-Ascorbic acid  There are a couple of studies, like this one in the Journal of Cosmetic Science that shows promising results with a 1% solution in reducing the amount of acne-causing bacteria P. acnes and 5% solution able to prevent lipid oxidation of sebum, which decreases skin inflammation.

Tocopheryl Acetate a synthetic form of Vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant essential for healthy skin. Higher levels are found in the dermis than the epidermis. Vitamin E is delivered to the skin through sebum but can be applied topically, especially in cases where it is lacking in the diet.  Vitamin E absorbs UV energy and reacts with reactive oxygen species (ROS) which protects the skin from UV-induced free radical damage and provides protection from the damaging effects of UV radiation. It is also able to provide anti-inflammatory properties within the skin. These effects are enhanced when combined with vitamin c.  It is added to skincare for its ability to protect collagen from degradation by ROS.

pH Testing:

I got a pH result of 3.2.

pH Analysis:

The pH of this serum is below the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). However, this is due to the ascorbic acid (Vitamin c) requiring an acidic pH to work optimally (between pH 2-3.5). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. This particular serum will also have some mild exfoliating properties, so sunscreen should be worn when using this serum.

My Experience:

Since I have been using the serum, I have noticed a slight decrease in my melasma, and my overall skin texture and brightness have improved. I have fewer issues with post-inflammatory erythema (the redness that can occur after a blemish), and my skin has a nice even tone and glow. I first used this serum before switching to the Wishtrend 21.5% Advanced Serum (you can read my review of that serum here), before returning to this product. While I would have potentially seen greater results with the higher concentration of vitamin c, this formula just feels nicer and gives a beautiful glow under my sunscreen and makeup. I was finding myself reaching for it every morning, and I appreciate the science that has gone into finding other antioxidants to improve the effectiveness of vitamin c (even if it was not Wishtrend who did the research).

Overall Impressions:

This serum applies without a sticky residue and sinks completely into the skin. It offers antioxidant protection and protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. The added ingredients like niacinamide contribute towards brightening and it may be an excellent option for those who have breakouts due to the inclusion of ingredients that help prevent or treat acne. Overall this serum is fantastic for everyone, whether they are new to vitamin c or an experienced user. Ideally, I would use the SkinCeuticals C E, but my budget just won’t allow for spending that much on a serum that has such a short shelf-life. Overall I feel this is an excellent compromise and I will continue to repurchase.

Things I Liked:

• Formulated at the correct pH give formula with proven ingredients
• Free of perfumes, alcohol, and essential oils
• Affordable
• Packaging protects the formulation from light
• Cruelty-free and vegan

Things I Disliked:

• The dropper bottle does not protect the product from the air
• The glass packaging is not travel friendly
• The shelflife is relatively short and refrigeration is required

Sources:

• By Wishtrend website www.wishtrend.com
• SkinCeuticals website www.skinceuticals.com
• The roles of vitamin C and skin health. Nutrients, 2017.
• Therapeutic perspective of vitamin C and its derivatives. Antioxidants, 2019.
• Vitamin C in dermatology.  Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 2013.
• Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris.  Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005.
• Photoprotective effects of topical antioxidants in humans. Current problems in dermatology. 2001
• Antioxidant properties of ferulic acid and it’s possible applications. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 2018.
• Hippophae rhamnoides oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion improves barrier function in healthy human subjects. International Journal of pharmacological science, 2014.
• Abundance of active ingredients and sea-buckthorn oil. Lipids in Health and Disease, 2017.
• Formulation and Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Topical Preparations. Systemic Reviews in Pharmacy, 2011.
• Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit.  Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013
• Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review.  3 Biotceh, 2016.
• Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981.  
• 12% Lactate Lotion for the Treatment of Xerosis: A Double-blind Clinical Evaluation. Archives of Dermatology, 1983.
• Cassiae semen: A review of its physiochemistry and pharmacology. Molecular Medicine Reports, 2017.
• Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. The Journal of Dermatology, 2000.
• Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.  International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2004.
• Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 2005.
• How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2010.