NIOD Sanskrit Saponins – Review

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NIOD Sanskrit Saponins is a gentle cleanser that uses plant saponins (a natural alternative to soap) and arginine (an amino acid) as cleansing agents instead of the traditional surfactants found in many other harsh cleansing products. This formula effectively targets congestion, blemishes and impurities and claims to give an immediate and visible minimization in the appearance of pores. It is a completely unique product that contains many ingredients that are repairing and nourishing to the skin. It is suitable for all skin types, and anyone with sensitive or damaged skin would especially benefit from using this product.

NIOD Claims:

Sanskrit Saponins (SS) is a vicious and intense cleaning balm for the face formulated with highly-concentrated, very-unrefined Ayurvedic plant surfactants unsupported by any modern cleaning technology. SS contains no purified or synthetic surfactants, sulphates, oils, esters or micellar technologies. It is a pH-balanced suspension of the amino acid, Arginine, in saponins from the Ayurvedic plants shikakai and sapindus mukorossi.

Today, cleaning — or its unnecessarily-privileged language form, “cleansing” — seems to be more focused on removing makeup than actually cleaning bare skin — of dirt, of dead cells, and of oils. While many modern products remove makeup and surface dirt very effectively, they largely leave the pores unclean of bacteria, dirt and oils. Such products also leave spent cells more intact than even through water-cleaning, discouraging the skin to behave optimally.

In our distant past, plant saponins were used to clean the skin well — and they did so very well. These saponins clean the surface of dead cells without peeling the skin. They delete dirt. They clean pores intensely. And they remove the skin’s own oils.

With continued use, SS visibly targets all forms of build-up, blemishes, congestion and impurities. It is suitable for all skin types. After the first use, SS leaves the skin looking nearly pore-free and its surface exceptionally cleaned — as if it’s radiating from within.

NIOD Brand Overview:

NIOD is the luxury, scientifically-based skincare line owned by Decem, the umbrella company that owns The Ordinary, The Chemistry Brand and Hylamide. NIOD stands for non-invasive options in Dermal Science. The products are formulated with the most advanced and best quality ingredients available. Everything added to the formulation has a purpose. Their tagline is “skincare for the hyper-educated.” The NIOD line was a passion project for the cofounder Brandon and focuses on overall skin condition and long-term improvements to the health of the skin.

Appearance and Scent:

The cleanser has a light airy texture that melts into a paste when rubbing on the skin or between hands. It feels like a light gel-cream on the skin. It spreads easily and creates little friction, but does not lather when mixed with water. While the non-foaming aspect does feel unusual, it does leave the skin clean and feeling comfortable. It has a slight eatery, yeast-like smell that is mild but might be slightly unpleasant to some people.

Packaging, Size, and Expiry:

The product is housed in a recycled cardboard NIOD box with a security seal. The cleanser comes in an aluminum squeeze tube. The packaging is simple, spill-free, hygienic, and easy to use. The tube contains either 90 ml or 180 ml of product and expires six months after opening.

How to Use:

Start by massaging a generous amount onto the palms to create a paste. Apply to damp skin and massage for several minutes, before rinsing with tepid water. NIOD cautions this product is irritating to the eyes and as such, they should be kept closed during rinsing. It also advises this cleanser is only used every other day and as a second cleanse after first removing makeup and sunscreen.

This product can be applied for a deeper cleaning treatment as required. Apply to clean dry skin, after wetting the palms of your hands and massage a generous amount of the product until a paste forms. Apply to dry skin, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 5 minutes then rinse thoroughly with warm water. NIOD does not specify how often to use this product as a mask but my skin has been responding well to weekly treatments.

Price and Number of Uses:

The cost is NZD $45 or USD $33 for 90 ml and NZD $58 or USD $79 for 180 ml. I estimate the product would last about four months with every other day and weekly mask usage.

Formulation Science:

Saponins are plant-derived organic chemicals that have foaming properties when mixed with water and are therefore natural surfactants.  They are present in over 50,000 different plants and are found in many parts of the plant including the flowers, leaves, fruit and stems, although the greatest concentration is found in the roots.  The plant has evolved to accumulate saponins as protection against fungal infections.

They are composed of water soluble sugars and are hydrophilic (water repelling) and asymmetric, allowing them to lower surface tension an act like soaps. They are effective emulsifying agents and they have a long history of being sued as detergents or soap substitutes.   

The use of synthetic surfaces like sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) has been shown to be irritating and inflammatory to the skin barrier. Unlike sulphate-based surfactants, saponins like the ones extracted from soapnuts have been found to be beneficial to the health of the skin and assist in wound healing.

NIODS intention for this product was to go back to the very early days of using plant-based materials for cleansing before harsh surfactants and the desire for squeaky clean skin became popular. They have managed created a product that can remove debris from the skin without causing any irritation or inflammation to the skin.

Ingredients:

Aqua (Water), Stearic Acid, Sapindus Mukurossi Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Arginine, Polysorbate 60, Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Balanites Aegyptiaca (Desert Date) Fruit Extract, Gypsophila Paniculata Root Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Melanin, Sorbic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

Ingredient Analysis:

Sapindus Mukurossi Fruit Extract also commonly known as sopanuts, which have traditionally been used for cleaning purposes due to its detergent like action.   They have a rich history in Ayurvedic (Indian) medicine as a treatment for eczema, psoriasis and improving the appearance of the skin.

Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient (skin softening) ingredient that is capable of retaining moisture and repairing the skin due to its high fatty acid content. It also has the ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients without leaving an oily residue on the skin. It is produced by mixing coconut oil or palm kernel oil with glycerin.

Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body.  When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits.  Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited.  It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor NMF) of the skin.  NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.

Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract is derived from the Shikakai nut of the Acacia concinna plant native to India, where it has been used for hundreds of years as an effective cleanser and conditioner for the hair.  The active constituents include saponins, alkaloids, tannins and malic acid. They have cleansing, stimulating and astringent properties.

Balanites Aegyptiaca (Desert Date) Fruit Extract comes from a shrub that grows in the deserts of Africa and South Asia, that is extremely drought resistant. Extracts have been used as a traditional remedy used for wound healing, and act as a potent antioxidant.  

Melanin is the pigment molecule responsible for the colour of skin.  It is produced by specialized cells called melanocyte as a protective mechanism when the skin is exposed to UV light.  The addition of melanin in skincare products has been adopted by manufactures to attempt to mimic the protective role of melanin within the skin.  Melanin also exhibits significant antioxidant activity as it protects melanocytes and keratinocytes from hydrogen peroxide-induced DNA damage.  Studies on topical use are very limited, but currently, it is showing promise as a natural antioxidant in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

pH Testing:

I got a result of 6.9.

pH Analysis:

I got a pH result of 6.9. The NIOD website claims the pH will lie between 6.5 and 7.5. The pH of this cleanser is outside the pH of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. As the pH of healthy facial skin is on average 4.7, this product is too alkaline to provide any benefit to the skin and may even be harmful. The slightly alkaline pH could affect the health of the skin long-term, which could potentially have the effect of damaging the skins moisture barrier and causing breakouts or dermatitis with extended use.

Results:

I have been this cleanser every second evening for around three months. I have noticed less congestion and an overall improvement in the smoothness and suppleness of my skin. This may be in part due to the fact that this product allowed me to minimise the use of any foaming (surfactant-based) cleansers which are known to be incredibly harsh on the skin. Unfortunate, any significant benefits are likely to be outweighed by the alkalinity of this product.

I use this as a second cleanser in the evening after first oil cleansing with NIOD Low Viscosity Cleansing Ester (Read my review here) and it leaves my skin feeling fresh and glowing. What is suppressing though is that the skin does not feel hydrated and comfortable after use, but instead can feel dry and tight, although this is only temporary and is not the same as the dry tight feeling experienced after using harsh cleansers to strip moisture from deep in the skin. That said, it is not off-putting to me and I actually like the feeling. I also like to use it as a weekly deep cleansing mask, but if my skin is feeling sensitive, I will just target my congested and problem areas.

Overall Impressions:

I really like the idea of this cleanser, I know from my previous issues with sensitivity and dermatitis my skin just does not like surfactants, even the mildest formulas are not well tolerated by my skin for daily use. What I love the most though is the self-care aspect I get from using this product. As it doesn’t foam and needs to be massaged in for a long time to feel like its working, I use the opportunity to give myself a mini facial. My skin is visibly glowing after use although it’s hard to actually say if it’s entirely due to the product or if it can also be attributed to the increased circulation from the massage. Either way, my skin looks bright and healthy and appears to glow into the next day as well. While a slight dryness can be felt after use, I immediately follow with a low pH hydrating toner, my favourite is the Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner (read my review here), and the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (read my review here) to replace any lost moisture. After I have finished my routine I seal it all in with an Argan Oil or Squalene.

What I Liked:

• Effective and versatile
• Can be used as a cleanser or mask
• Ideal product for travel
• Alcohol, fragrance, sulphate and preservative-free
• Contain the latest skincare ingredients and technology
• The brand is cruelty-free and vegan

What I Disliked:

• Can’t be used to remove makeup
• Has an unpleasant smell
• Not recommended for daily use so still need to own other cleansing products

References: 

• NIOD Website
• Portrait of the synthesis of some potent anti-inflammatory natural products.  Discovery and development of Anti-inflammatory Agents from Natural Products, 2019.
• Evaluation of aqueous extract of Soapnut as surfactant in cosmetics.  Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 2017.
• Anti-aging effects of L-arginine.  Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
• Pharmacological properties of melanin and its function in health.  Basic and Clinical Pharmacological and Toxicology, 2016.
• Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Acacia Catechu Gum, Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Wax, Acacia Decurrens Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax, Acacia Farnesiana Gum, Acacia Senegal Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, and Acacia Senegal Gum Extract.  International Journal of Toxicology, 2005.
• Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4^th Edition, 2015.
• A review on Balanites aegyptiaca Del (desert date): phytochemical constituents, traditional uses, and pharmacological activity.  Pharmacognosy Review, 2011.