Introducing my personalized skincare consultation service. Please fill out the form below to begin your journey to flawless skin.
[wpforms id="3267" title="false"]
The NIOD Voicemail Masque is a leave-on probiotic treatment masque that is intended to be used twice weekly as part of the NIOD regime. What makes this treatment different is instead of using specific ingredients to target a specific cellular process, it focuses on improving the communication between cells. This results in the overall improvement to the health and appearance of the skin, revealing a firmer, more hydrated, and visibly brighter complexion.
NIOD Claim:
Voicemail Masque is a nighttime masque treatment that fights many of the signs associated with impaired cellular communication. The formula is a suspension of plant stem cells from mountain flowers and narrowleaf plantain, as well as highly-purified polyphenols rich in hydroxycinnamic acid from oregano leaves. The suspension medium is comprised of advanced adaptive silicones that lengthen dermal exposure timeframe, supported by a fractionated spectrum of molecular weight (instead of a specific one) of hyaluronic acid, just as naturally found in the body. The result is skin that looks healthy, well-rested, bright and uniform from the very first use.
NIOD Brand Overview:
NIOD is the luxury, scientifically-based skincare line owned by Decem, the umbrella company that owns The Ordinary and Hylamide. NIOD stands for non-invasive options in Dermal Science. The products are formulated with the most advanced and best quality ingredients available. Everything added to the formulation has a purpose. Their tagline is “skincare for the hyper-educated.” The NIOD line was a passion project for the cofounder Brandon and focuses on overall skin condition and long-term improvements to the health of the skin.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The glass bottle with an aluminium screw cap lid is housed in the iconic NIOD box with a security seal. The product does not come with a spatula and must be poured out of the jar into the palm of your hand. The jar contains 50 ml and expires six months after opening.
Appearance and Scent:
The brown liquid has the same viscosity as pouring honey and glides easily over the skin with an almost gel-like texture. It is non-sticky but does not dry completely on the skin. The residue is easily washed off the next morning. The scent is a medicinal, woody fragrance.
Price and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $78 or USD $52. I estimate the product would last about six months with twice-weekly use.
How to Use:
Use twice weekly at nighttime only. If used as part of a NIOD regimen, apply CAIS/MMHC first and then apply a thin layer of this masque over the entire face.
Outside of a NIOD regimen, apply over lighter serums and avoid the application of thicker cream formulations. Massage for about 20-40 seconds. Do not apply other products afterwards. Rinse off the next morning.
Formulation Science:
The purpose of the treatment is to reduce the visible signs of aging that result from impaired cellular communication by utilizing a variety of plant stem cells and purified polyphenols from oregano leaves, hyaluronic acid, and advanced adaptive silicons.
Cells communicate with neighbouring cells via chemical substances interacting with receptors on the surface of the cell. As cellular communication decreases with age, it is proposed that by supporting the natural communication between cells, their renewal activity can be activated. This would allow older cells to act like younger cells capable of making increased collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid within the skin matrix, and produce greater quantities of lipids to maintain the skin barrier function.
According to this article by the telegraph.com, on the founder of Decem, Brandon Truaxe, most stem cell containing skincare formulations are entirely ineffective as they are deactivated in the formula or are unable to interact with the skin in any meaningful way. By incorporating silicon as a way to provide physical and chemical protection to plant stem cells, they are able to interact with the skin. He describes the use of this technology as “a remarkable achievement for his team.”
The formula also contains a Lactococcus post-biotic lysate. Fermented products are produced when bacteria are grown on a nutrient-rich substrate. The bacteria in the resulting broth are then destroyed, so that cell contents and parts of the cell walls and cytoplasm are kept in the solution. This is referred to as a lysate and serves as a nutritional source for the resident, helpful bacteria that naturally colonize healthy skin. This helps reduce inflammation within the skin in the same way that has been shown by taking oral probiotic strains. Clinical studies have already reported that topical probiotics are capable of exerting skin health effects such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burns, and scars, rejuvenating the skin and improving the skin’s innate immunity.
Ingredients:
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Centaurea cyanus flower water, Glycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propanediol, Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Melanin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Sodium Chloride, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
Ingredient Analysis:
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient that is produced when the cell membrane of the gram-positive bacterium Lactococcus lactic is broken or lysed. This releases the contents of the cell, which then can be used by resident skin flora (the good bacteria that live on the skin and keep it healthy) for growth. It has been shown to improve the skin barrier function, improves epidermal growth, and improves the overall condition of the skin.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Dimethicone is a silicone that protects the skin from moisture loss and improves the spreadability and slip of formulations. Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is silicone used to thicken formulas that can absorb oils, leaving a silky feeling on the skin. Historically it was believed that silicones ‘clog’ pores or prevents the skin from breathing. This has been proven to be incorrect, in fact, silicones are considered to be one of the most breathable occlusive ingredients. They have been included in this formula to hold moisture in the skin.
Propanediol is a fatty alcohol used as a penetration enhancing ingredient that is also hydrating and leaves a slightly greasy/oily residue on the skin. It can act as a solvent or an emulsifier and can be added to skincare to reduce the viscosity of the formulation. It can be produced synthetically or by using a non-pathogenic strain of E. coli to ferment corn-derived glucose.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in nearly every cell of the body. It has a skin-supporting function in the dermis, maintains epidermal barrier function, immobilizes water in tissues, influences cell proliferation, and differentiation, and plays an essential role in wound healing and inflammatory responses. The skin utilizes almost 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid. The molecule has a negative charge allowing it to bind with water and form a viscous gel. As a result, it is used for dermal fillers and as a topical skin moisturizing ingredient. The extraction of hyaluronic acid is either from animal tissues or via large-scale bacterial fermentation using genetically modified bacterial stains. Extracted initially from cow eyes, then more recently roosters combs. The most ethical way to produce hyaluronic acid is by genetically modifying strains of bacteria like E. coli, Bacillus, and Lactococcus species. Deciem uses the process of bacterial fermentation to source its hyaluronic acid, making it vegan and cruelty-free.
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, also known as Ribwort plantain, is an important medicinal plant due to its phenolic compounds, flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, Vitamin c, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used in skincare formulations for its astringent, emollient and soothing properties.
Melanin is the pigment molecule responsible for the colour of skin. It is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes as a protective mechanism when the skin is exposed to UV light. The addition of melanin in skincare products has been adopted by manufacturers to attempt to mimic the protective role of melanin within the skin. Melanin also exhibits significant antioxidant activity as it protects melanocytes and keratinocytes from hydrogen peroxide-induced DNA damage. Studies on topical use are very limited, but currently, it is showing promise as a natural antioxidant in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 5.6. The NIOD website says the pH will be between 5.0-6.0.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this product is within the pH of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7), and is, therefore, able to contribute towards improved skin health. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Results:
As NIOD treatments are about improving skin health long-term, the products can take some time to show effectiveness. However, I notice visible improvements in hydration, overall skin condition, and texture the next day after using this product.
Overall Impressions:
As this product works best when used alone, it is perfect for nights when I’m either in a rush or are too tired for a complicated skincare routine. I can do a double cleanse, apply the masque; then I’m ready for bed. I use it two nights per week, and I am always impressed with the overall condition of my skin the next morning.
Some other reviews mention a dislike for the product not drying completely and the possibility of transferring the product to pillowslips. I have applied the masque heavily above to show the resulting appearance on the skin. When a tissue is held to my face, a slight transfer is noted but it is in my opinion not significant and I have never had any issues with staining fabric while sleeping with the treatment on. The best solution is to allow a little time after application before going to bed.
I have been using this product for the last three months and will continue to repurchase it as It is making a visible difference to my skin, and I feel long-term this is a fantastic product to have in my routine.
Things I Liked:
- pH balanced at 5.6
- Free of perfumes and alcohol
- Effective and noticeable results
- A good amount of active ingredients
- No unnecessary ingredients
- Cruelty-free and vegan friendly
Things I Disliked:
- Expensive
- Hard to dispense and the glass bottle is not travel friendly
- The smell and potential to stain could be off-putting for some
Sources:
- NIOD Website
- Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
- Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome, you never walk alone. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.
- Topical use of probiotics: The natural balance. Porto Biomedical Journal, 2017.
- Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review. 3 Biotceh, 2016.
- Pharmacological properties of melanin and its function in health. Basic and Clinical Pharmacological and Toxicology, 2016.
- Plantago plant; Traditional Medicine. NISCAR-CSIR, 2014.
- Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
- Beauty without the fluff: Meet the man who will make you look younger. The Telegraph, 2017.
