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The elmt Advanced Calming Solution is a toner serum hybrid that is full of skin-soothing and repairing Centella asiatica extract, a medicinal herb used for thousands of years for its ability to calm and heal the skin. Hydrating Snow mushroom polysaccharides promote skin barrier repair and Vitamin B5 helps retain moisture in the skin, making this a versatile and effective product for even the most sensitive skin.
Wishtrend recently launched a new formula-driven brand called elmt (pronounced element), which was lead by a group of researchers who aim to find the best skincare solutions through purposeful formulas created for maximum effectiveness. I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to test out two of their products in exchange for an honest review.
the elmt range currently consists of three other products in addition to this one.
- Gentle Exfoliating Solution, with AHA’s, Vitamin C and Super Berry Complex (I will be reviewing this product soon)
- Skin Illumination Solution with 10% Niacinamide and 51.9% Grape and Pomegranate Extract
- Skin Activating Solution with 58% Green tea complex and 14.7% Chinese skullcap
elmt Claims:
This lightweight, liquid-type solution doubles as a toner and serum that quickly absorbs into the skin to deliver a calming, regenerative experience for irritated skin. Enriched with more than 59.12% Centella Asiatica extract, a superstar ingredient highly lauded for thousands of years as a part of reparative skincare in Asia, and snow fungus-derived polysaccharides, which keeps the skin moisturized and comfortable, the Advanced Calming Solution is a one-stop solution to hydrate, heal and soothe.
The Active components found in Centella Asiatica are widely known to effectively restore damaged skin. However when said components are applied to irritated skin, slight skin irritation may also occur in addition to the beenficial effects it carries. To solve this problem, the Advanced Calming Solution combines both Centella Asiatica and Polysaccharides in its formula. Therefore the beneficial effects of Centella Asiatica’s active components are maximised, while irritating properties are reduced. Ultimately, the synergy between both ingredients allows for superior skin soothing.
elmt is “Skincare Unframed” a formula driven skincare brand led by a group of researchers. High quality ingredients are reimagined into the best skincare solutions through purposeful formulas created for maximum effectiveness.
Appearance and Scent:
The calming solution is a lightweight liquid that is the consistency of water. Once applied, it absorbs quickly and leaves no oily residue on the skin. The fragrance-free formula has no detectable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The packaging is a transparent green glass bottle, with a screw cap lid. The bottle contains 150ml of product and expires 12 months after opening or 30 months after the date of manufacture.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $27.50 or USD $20.00. I have found only a small amount is required and estimate the 150ml product lasts about four months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
After cleansing, use the palm of your hands to gently apply and pat the solution onto the skin. Or, dampen a cotton pad with solution and gently sweep it over the face and neck. This solution can be used morning and night to tone, prep skin for following skincare steps, and refresh, nourish, and hydrate the complexion.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Advanced Calming Solution -> Serum -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser ->Cleanser -> Advanced Calming Solution -> Serum -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Ingredients:
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf/Stem Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Propanediol, Pullulan, Trehalose, Panthenol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Allantoin, Pentylene Glycol, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Ingredient Analysis:
Centella asiatica is a herbaceous creeper that grows in swampy areas thought out India, Pakistan Sri Lanka, Madagascar, South Africa and Eastern Europe. It is commonly known as Gotu Kola and has been used to exert pharmacological effects in dermatology in the treatment of various skin lesions including burns, excoriations and eczema. It is considered to be an effective ingredient for antiaging and improving skin hydration.
This study found that using a product containing 5% Centella asiatica over a four week period improved the hydration of the skins moisture barrier by increasing the skins surface level of hydration and decreasing transepidermal water loss.
Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Propanediol is a fatty alcohol used as a penetration enhancing ingredient that is also hydrating and leaves a slightly greasy/oily residue on the skin. It can act as a solvent or an emulsifier and can be added to skincare to reduce the viscosity of the formulation. It can be produced synthetically or by using a non-pathogenic strain of E. coli to ferment corn-derived glucose.
Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism. In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn. When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates. It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin.
Pullulan is a polysaccharide produced from the fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans that is gaining popularity in the pharmaceutical industry due to its unique characteristics, including that it is water-soluble, unlike most polysaccharides. According to the manufacturer, DKSH, it provides an instant lifting effect to the skin.
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide comes from the Snow Mushroom. Mushrooms are valued for their bioactive compounds as they are an excellent source of phenolic compounds, polyphenols, terpenoids, selenium, polysaccharides, and vitamins. They are increasingly being used for cosmetic ingredients and have antioxidant, antiaging, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing properties. A polysaccharide extracted from the Tremella mushroom is capable of inhibiting melanin formation and has an excellent moisturizing ability.
pH Analysis:
I got a result of pH 6.1. The Wishtrend website says the pH will be between 5.0 and 6.0.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this product is just outside the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. I normally prefer a slightly lower pH product in my toning step as this helps to reequilibrate the skins pH level after cleansing. However, as this product is just on the higher end of the range, it is unlikely to be causing any additional stress to the skin. The way I am currently using this product is to calm my skin after exfoliating with the elmt Gentle Exfoliating Solution, which due to its low pH (3.0-4.0), buffers the pH of this product to the range I want for my skin to be healthy and able to repair itself.
Results:
I have been only using the Advanced Calming Solution for the past three weeks, but during that time I have seen my skin become less sensitive. I always try to incorporate a Centella continuing product somewhere into my routine as daily exposure to pollution and UV radiation is known to cause some inflammation, whether visible or not. The timing of this product arriving was also advantageous, as I had had IPL treatment and some small veins cauterized on my cheeks which resulted in visible wounds that took around 10 days to heal. I found this to be the perfect product to soothe the wounds and calm the areas that had been heat-treated. While the glass jar looks beautiful, I do find it a little bit cumbersome to use, so during this time I decanted it into a spray bottle and spritzed my face several times during the day. The formula is mild and comforting and never stung, even on open wounds. I do think my skin did heal faster applying this throughout the day.
Overall Impressions:
The Advanced Calming Solution is full of proven and effective ingredients and free of any that has the potential to be irritating. With this formula containing three different extracts of Centella asiatica, this, in theory, would make this product excellent for healing damaged skin or acne and I would recommend this to anyone with even the most sensitive skin.
What I Liked:
- Acts as a toner and serum
- Fragrance, essential oil and alcohol-free
- Inexpensive and lasts a long time
- layers well with other products
- Contains no unnecessary or sensitizing ingredients
- elmt is a vegan and cruelty-free brand
What I Disliked:
- The glass packaging is not travel friendly
Disclaimer:
This product was gifted to me by Wishtrend in exchange for an unbiased review.
References:
- Wishtrend website
- Innovative Ingredients for the Personal Care Industry. DKSH
- Pullulan: an exopolysaccharide and its various applications. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2013.
- The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products. Cosmetic Science and Technology, 2017.
- Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer. International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2016.
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of cosmetic science, 2011.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981. .Comparison of the moisture retention capacity of Tremella Polyphenols and hyaluronic acid. Science, 2012.
- Mushroom cosmetics: The present and future. Cosmetics, 2016.
