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The Hada Labo Goku Jyun Essence is a hydrating essence that contains four different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid (HA), each able to penetrate to different depths within the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a skin-identical ingredient that helps the skin behave like healthier, younger skin. Additionally, it visibly plums fine lines and wrinkles and increases hydration. The purpose of this essence is to intensely hydrate deeper layers of the dermis. While this essence would be hugely beneficial for anyone with dry or mature skin, even oily skin can benefit from extra hydration, which can prevent excess sebum production caused by dehydration.
Hada Labo Claims:
This is a hyper-strength rehydration serum has five forms of hyaluronic compounds with varying molecular weights. This serum is part of the Booster Series that contains concentrated treatments for specialized or seasonal supplementary care.
Hada Labo Brand Overview:
Hada Labo is the Japanese skincare company created by Rohto Pharmaceutical Company using the concept of “pure and simple” skincare without any unnecessary ingredients or additives. Their products are based around their proprietary ingredient Super Hyaluronic Acid, a complex of three different molecular sizes of Hyaluronic Aci
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The essence comes in a glass bottle with an eye drop applicator. The dropper only fills up about 1/3 of the way when plunged, however, I find this to be the perfect amount per application The bottle contains 30 grams and expires 5 years after the date of manufacture.
Appearance and Scent:
The essence is a light-weight opaque liquid that is the consistency of a silky gel. The viscosity makes it feel more like a serum than an essence to me. It quickly absorbs int the skin and sits comfortably under subsequent skincare products. The fragrance-free formula has no discernable scent.
Price and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $33.0 or SGD $31.90. I have found the 30ml product lasts about two months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
Apply the essence after cleansing before the application of heavier or more viscous skincare products. Drop a small amount onto fingers and gently pat apply to the entire face and neck until completely absorbed. Finish with a moisturizer to seal in the moisture and an SPF during the daytime. It is best to apply hyaluronic acid-containing products to a damp face.
Formulation Science:
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in nearly every cell of the body. It has a skin-supporting function in the dermis, helps to maintain epidermal barrier function, immobilizes water in tissues, influences cell proliferation and differentiation, and plays an essential role in wound healing and inflammatory responses. The skin utilizes almost 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid reserves. The molecule has a negative charge allowing it to bind with water and form a viscous gel. As a result, it is used for dermal fillers and as a topical skin moisturizing ingredient.
While high molecular weight hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin, its primary function within the skin is not hydration. As the hyaluronic acid molecule is too large to penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, and instead sits on the skin surface, drawing moisture out of the skin. This makes the surface feel soft and hydrated temporarily but does not contribute towards hydration of the dermis. To overcome this adding multiple different sources of hyaluronic acid, with varying molecular weights, allows the hyaluronic acid molecules to be absorbed into the lower layers of the skin, and provide hydration and visible plumping, without drawing water out of the skin.
This article published in The Polish Journal of Cosmetology found a significant improvement and wrinkle reduction was observed after applying low molecular weight hyaluronic acid due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. However, it was also noted that high molecular weight hyaluronic acid could also be beneficial by forming a film on the surface of the skin protecting the stratum corneum. This layer prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and moisturizes the outer layer of the skin.
Ingredients:
Water, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Glycerin, Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Dimethicone, Acrylates C10-30, Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Poly-acrylate, PEG-8, Laureth-23, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Buteth-3, Carbomer, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Laureth-4, PVM/MA Copolymer, Citric Acid, Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium PCA, Tributyl Citrate, Propylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Sclerotium Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate (Medium-size HA), Sodium Hyaluronate (Nano HA), Sodium Hyaluronate (Large-size HA)
Ingredient Analysis:
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract also known as Lemon verbena is a perennial shrub native to India with a long history of medicinal use for skin diseases. It possesses antibacterial properties, acts as an astringent and is also used as a fragrance ingredient.
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is a plant with the potential to offer excellent moisturizing effects, due to its ability to draw water into the cells via osmosis. According to the manufacturer Active Concepts, it is able to elevate the amount of moisture in the skin by 45% and increase hydration levels for 24 hours after application.
Methylparaben and Propylparaben. Parabens are the most commonly used synthetic preservatives, as they display a broad-spectrum activity against yeasts, molds, and bacterial contamination. However, there is some controversy surrounding their ability to be absorbed and accumulate within the body where they can potentially act as endocrine disruptors. The evidence for this is equally as controversial, with many studies looking at oral intake rather than topical application. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Panel assessed 21 different parabens and concluded in this report that “20 of the 21 parabens included in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when the sum of the total parabens in any given formulation does not exceed 0.8%”. While it is not disclosed what the exact amount in this formulation is, the takeaway message is to avoid paraben containing products if you are concerned about toxicity.
Dimethicone is a silicone that protects the skin from moisture loss and improves the spreadability and slip of formulations. Dimethicone Crosspolymer is silicone used to thicken formulas that can absorb oils, leaving a silky feeling on the skin. Historically it was believed that silicones ‘clog’ pores or prevents the skin from breathing. This has been proven to be incorrect, in fact, silicones are considered to be one of the most breathable occlusive ingredients. They have been included in this formula to give the toner a ‘slip’ that allows subsequent applications or skincare products to absorb more readily.
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is considered to be a marine-derived alternative to hyaluronic acid, produced from the biofermentaion of the bacterial strain Pseudoalteromonas antartica. According to the manufacturer Lipotec, the ingredient, offers immediate and long-lasting moisturization and improves the appearance of wrinkles in the same way hyaluronic acid does. It also contains amino acid residues and is considered to be a good anti-aging ingredient due to its ability to increase moisture, reduce redness, increase collagen and elastin production and promote skin regeneration.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract comes from the species of legume native to East Asia. They contain many functional compounds, including phenolic acids, flavonoids, tannins and small proteins. When added to skincare, it can act as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, stimulate collagen, decrease pigmentation and protect against UV radiation.
Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract comes from the Prickly Pear, a cactus native to Mexico and used in traditional medicine due to its high concentration of bioactive compounds. It has good wound healing ability and been shown to be effective in treating burns to the skin.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
pH Testing:
I got a result of pH 5. The Hada Labo website does not list the pH but says it is skin pH balanced.
pH Analysis:
Although hyaluronic acid is generally not pH-dependent, I found the pH of this essence to be around 5.0. The pH of healthy facial skin lies between 4.5 to 5.5 with an average of 4.7. Therefore, this product is within the pH of the skin and makes this an ideal moisturizing product to nourish and protect the skin moisture barrier. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here
Results:
I do notice visible plumping and hydrating results when I use this essence, and I really enjoy how easily it absorbs into my skin. I always use any hyaluronic acid-containing product after first generously applying a low pH, toner. My favourite is the Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner (you can read my review here), as this allows the hyaluronic acid extra moisture to absorb, plumping up the skin. I then follow with other serums (there is no compatibility issues with any of the ingredients in this serum), or just apply my moisturizer and sunscreen (during the day).
Overall Impressions:
This essence and many of the other products in the Hada Labo line have achieved cult status as being excellent Hyaluronic Acid continuing products. Given the low price point, I can see why this would be the case. Anyone who wants to essentially buy drug-store priced skincare, but still wants a superior product with more than one form of hyaluronic acid with multiple molecular weights would find this essence a great buy.
Four different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid are far superior to almost all other HA products on the market at a similar price point (or higher), which only contain one molecular size. I really enjoyed this essence, but due to not being able to easily repurchase in NZ, and the number of preservative ingredients, I won’t be repurchasing.
Things I Liked:
- pH is within the range of healthy skin
- Different molecular weights of HA allow for better hydration
- Layers well with other products
- Free of perfumes and essential oils
Things I Disliked:
- Contains paraben which some people may want to avoid
- Hard to find outside of Asia
- The glass bottle is not travel friendly
- The packaging does not protect the product from the air
Sources:
- Hada Labo Tokyo Website www.Hadalabotokyo.com
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
- Antibacterial Activity of Lippia citriodora A Folklore Plant. Journal of Pure and Applied Microbiology, 2008.
- Active Concepts website www.activeconceptsllc.com
- Lipotech Active Ingredients www.lipotech.com/en
- Dermatological and Cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (Soybean) and its active components. Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica – Drug Research, 2015.
- The Antimicrobial and Wound Healing Potential of Opuntia ficus indica L. inermis Extracted Oil from Tunisia. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2019.
- Paraben paradoxes in cosmetic formulations: A review. International Journal of Medical Research and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2016.
- Amended Safety Assessment of Parabens as Used in Cosmetics, International Journal of Toxicology, 2020.
- Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
- Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review. 3 Biotceh, 2016.
- Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013.
