COSRX Propolis Ultra Light Ampoule – Review

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The COSRX Propolis Ultra Light Ampoule is Infused with 81.6% of black bee propolis extract, which is known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This is a reformulation of the original propolis ampoule and has a lighter texture that hydrates and nourishes the skin without leaving a sticky residue. It is recommended as an alternative for those with oilier or acne-prone skin types or those looking to benefit from the anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties of propolis.

COSRX Claim:

COSRX’s bestselling ampoule now comes with a lighter, fresher finishing! With over 80% propolis extract, this ampoule helps to increase the skin’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, while also calming and revitalizing irritated or damaged skin. 

Appearance and Scent:

The ampoule is a lightweight, gel-like texture that is hydrating yet absorbs easily. It has a low viscosity and spreads like water. The scent is a light honey aroma, from the propolis complex. There are no added fragrances in the formula.

Packaging, Size and Expiry:

The ampoule comes in a plastic bottle with a plastic dropper. The size is 30 ml and the expiry is 30 months after manufacture or 12 months after opening.

How to Use:

After cleansing and toning, take a moderate amount and apply evenly onto the face, avoiding the eye area. Pat lightly to aid absorption.

Ampoules are similar to a serum except they they generally contain a much higher concentration of active ingredients and are formulated to target specific concerns. They can be used in the place of a serum or used before a serum.

Application order:

Cleanser -> Toner -> COSRX Propolis Ampoule ->Serum (if desired) -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser ->Cleanser -> Toner -> COSRX Propolis Ampoule ->Serum (if desired) -> Moisturizer (nighttime)

Price and Number of Uses:

I purchased this from StyleKorean for USD $24. I estimate it will last me me around three months with daily usage.

Ingredients:

Propolis Extract, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Betaine, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Carbomer, Arginine

Ingredient Analysis:

Propolis Extract is also referred to as “bee glue” a wax-like substance that honeybees produce after collecting resin from flowers and mixing with salivary enzymes.  They then use this product for protecting and repairing their hive.  Humans have been finding uses for this substance since 300 BC, for everything from treating wounds and tumors to mummifying ancient Egyptians.  In modern times, we now know that propolis is effective for these purposes due to its wide assortment of biological actives and chemical compounds. This results in an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory activity that skincare manufactures have been incorporating into their formulas due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, and antifungal properties.   It is high in phenolic compounds, esters, flavonoids, terpenes, beta-steroids Vitamins B1, B2, B6, C, and E.   It also contains magnesium, calcium, potassium, sodium, copper, zinc, manganese and iron. 

This clinical study was preformed on 40 patients with acne vulgaris. Half were treated with a topical propolis solution. The treatment group showed a highly significant clinical efficiency in treating acne vulgaris and the researchers concluded propolis can be considered an effective, safe alternative medicine for the treatment of acne.

Butylene glycol is a common ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is very efficient at enhancing the penetration of active ingredients and acts as a humectant and solvent with antimicrobial properties.  It can be used to decrease the viscosity of a formulation or to mask unpleasant odors. It is considered to be non-toxic and non-irritating when applied topically.

Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

Betaine is a naturally occurring amino acid called trimethylglycine.  It is extracted from sugar beets (Beta vulgaris) and functions as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant and a viscosity increasing agent. It has also been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory and shows some benefits as an antiaging agent that can protect the skin from free radical damage.

Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract is a plant seed extract high in polysaccharides that act as skin conditioning agents.   The extract is anti-inflammatory and assists in the healing of acne and capable of mimicking the water plumping the effect of hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water.  The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).

Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism.  In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn.  When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates.   It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin. 

Carbomers are a group of synthetic, high molecular weight polymers that are used as thickeners and suspending agents, capable of stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. They are considered to be a safe cosmetic ingredient and are present in many products. 

Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.

pH Testing:

I got a pH result of 5.

pH Analysis:

The pH of this ampoule is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0), and close to the average pH value (4.7). This makes this perfect for nourishing and protecting the skin moisture barrier. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.

Results:

I have wanted to try this ampoule after falling in love with the COSRX Propolis light cream (You can read my review here). In the 6 weeks, I have been using it, it has done an excellent job of calming and soothing my skin, and I really like how lightweight this ampoule is. While this product is targeted towards oilier skin types, I have dry skin prone to dehydration, yet this was perfect for me. It sits well with other products in my routine and my redness and irritation have improved. Propolis is a fantastic ingredient anyone can benefit from and anytime I use it in my routine I notice my skin looks more healthy and resilient. The formula is hydrating and soothing, and has a small number of effective yet hypoallergenic ingredients, making it especially great for anyone with sensitive or reactive skin. I would also recommend this to anyone with acne or dermatitis.

Things I Liked:

  • Formulated close to skins pH
  • Contains quality ingredients in high concentrations
  • Free of perfumes, alcohol, and preservatives
  • Hydrating and skin-repairing
  • Suitable for all skin types including acne-prone and sensitive
  • COSRX is a cruelty-free brand

Things I Disliked:

  • Nothing

Sources:

  • COSRX website www.cosrx.com
  • Honey, propolis, and royal jelly: a comprehensive review of their biological actions and health benefits.  Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2017.
  • Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit.  Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
  • Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review.  3 Biotceh, 2016.
  • Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effect of some topical application of some plant oils. International Jornal of Molecular Sciences, 2017.
  • Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer.  International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2016.
  • Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations.  Journal of cosmetic science, 2011.
  • Significance of topical propolis in the treatment of facial acne vulgaris.  The Egyptian Journal of Dermatology and Venerology, 2015.
  • Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
  • Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Carbomers-934, -910, -934P, -940, -941, and -962.  International Journal of Toxicology, 1990.
  • Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2001.
  • Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Dipropylene Glycol.  Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1985.
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