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The Cosrx Propolis Light Cream moisturizer is Infused with 65.69% of black bee propolis complex. The complex is composed of propolis extract, honey extract, and royal jelly extract, all of which are known for their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This moisturizer delivers nourishment and antioxidants for soft, supple skin texture and moisture deep into the skin.
COSRX Claim:
A moisturizing cream with a high percentage of black bee propolis complex and antioxidants for a glowing complexion and skin that’s plump with hydration. No matter what your skin type is this light cream type moisturizer sinks in easily without a greasy feeling. When the cream is absorbed into the skin it keeps your skin glow all day long and even works well under your makeup.
Appearance and Scent:
The moisturizer is a white, light-weight, gel-like cream texture that is hydrating yet absorbs easily. The scent is a light honey aroma, from the propolis complex. There are no added fragrances in the formula.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The moisturizer comes in a sturdy plastic tub with a screw-cap lid. No spatula is included. The size is 65 grams and the expiry is 36 months after manufacture or 12 months after opening.
How to Use:
To use as a moisturizer, take a moderate amount and apply evenly onto the face, avoiding the eye area. Pat lightly to aid absorption. To use as a sleeping mask, apply a generous amount prior to bed. It is safe for all skin types.
Price and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $42 or USD $29. The jar lasted me around four months with twice-daily usage.
Formulation Science:
This moisturizer has been tested by the Korea Dermatology Research Institute on 31 subjects. After 50 days, zero participants reported any skin reaction. The product was then certified hypoallergenic.
The formula contains an impressive list of skin healing, and soothing ingredients, that are capable of preventing and healing acne, irritation, and dermatitis. This is also a great moisturizer for anyone wanting to strengthen their skin barrier.
Ingredients:
​Propolis Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Honey Extract, Royal Jelly Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Cetearyl Olivate, Beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Arginine, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum
Ingredient Analysis:
Propolis is also referred to as “bee glue” a wax-like substance that honeybees produce after collecting resin from flowers and mixing with salivary enzymes. They then use this product for protecting and repairing their hive. Humans have been finding uses for this substance since 300 BC, for everything from treating wounds and tumours to mummifying ancient Egyptians. In modern times, we now know that propolis is effective for these purposes due to its wide assortment of biological actives and chemical compounds. This results in an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory activity that skincare manufactures have been incorporating into their formulas due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, and antifungal properties. It is high in phenolic compounds, esters, flavonoids, terpenes, beta-steroids Vitamins B1, B2, B6, C, and E. It also contains magnesium, calcium, potassium, sodium, copper, zinc, manganese and iron.
This clinical study was performed on 40 patients with acne vulgaris. Half were treated with a topical propolis solution. The treatment group showed a highly significant clinical efficiency in treating acne vulgaris and the researchers concluded propolis can be considered an effective, safe alternative medicine for the treatment of acne.
Butylene glycol is a common ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is very efficient at enhancing the penetration of active ingredients and acts as a humectant and solvent with antimicrobial properties. It can be used to decrease the viscosity of a formulation or to mask unpleasant odours. It is considered to be non-toxic and non-irritating when applied topically.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, skin softening ingredient that is capable of retaining moisture and repairing the skin due to its high fatty acid content. It also has the ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients without leaving an oily residue on the skin. It is produced by mixing coconut oil or palm kernel oil with glycerin.
Sunflower seed oil comes from the Helianthus annuus plant seed. It consists of oleic (omega 9) and linoleic (omega 6) acids and is utilized in skincare due to its high linoleic acid concentration. Sunflower seed oil has been shown to improve stratum corneum integrity and improve hydration and enhance the skin barrier repair mechanisms.
Beeswax is the wax structure that forms the honeycomb where bees store honey. Its often used in cosmetics due to its hydrophobic (water-repelling) protective properties and its efficiency at healing bruises, inflammation, and burns. It also exhibits anti-fungal and anti-microbial action that is enhanced when combined with honey. Beeswax is composed of hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, and fatty alcohols.
Royal Jelly is a white, viscous, jelly-like substance secreted for the pharyngeal and submandibular glands of worker bees to be consumed by the queen bee and to promote the growth of immature honeybee larvae. The nutritious substance is the reason why the queen has a significantly longer lifespan compared to other bees. It has anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, and immunomodulatory properties.
Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract is a plant seed extract high in polysaccharides that act as skin conditioning agents. The extract is anti-inflammatory and assists in the healing of acne and is capable of mimicking the water plumping the effect of hyaluronic acid.
Honey is well known for its biological, physiological, and pharmacological activity. It has been used for thousands of years by many cultures to treat wounds and other diseases. Honey active components include glucose, fructose, flavonoids, polyphenol, organic acids, minerals, amino acids, and vitamins. Honeys healing abilities and anti-microbial activity is due to its ability to draw moisture out of an environment, essentially dehydrating and killing bacterial cells.
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
Carbomers are a group of synthetic, high molecular weight polymers that are used as thickeners and suspending agents, capable of stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. They are considered to be a safe cosmetic ingredient and are present in many products.
pH Testing:
I got a pH result of 4.8.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this toner is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0), and close to the average pH value (4.7). This makes this the perfect moisturizer to nourish and protect the skin moisture barrier. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Results:
I love this moisturizer and will continue to repurchase it. I have been using it in winter as both a nighttime occlusive layer and in the morning as a lightweight hydrating layer before I apply sun protection. It is hydrating enough for my dry skin, yet light enough I can see it being a great summertime moisturizer. Although Cosrx claims this product can be used as a sleeping mask, it works perfectly with their Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask, (read my review here). It absorbs completely and sits perfectly under both sunscreen and makeup. The ingredients list is super impressive and it is one of the few products on the market that truly only includes ingredients that serve a necessary function.
Overall Impressions:
This is in my opinion, a near-perfect skincare product. The only disadvantage for me is the packaging. I wish it came in an airless pump instead of an unhygienic tub. Even when using a clean spatula, the product is still exposed to some level of contamination, and the formula is exposed to light and air. I have been using this for about two months now, and am about halfway through the tub. My redness and irritation have improved, and I think this would be a very soothing and calming product for anyone with a damaged barrier or reactive skin.
Things I Liked:
- Formulated close to skins pH at 4.8
- Contains quality ingredients in high concentrations
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and preservatives
- Hydrating and skin-repairing
- Suitable for all skin types including acne-prone and sensitive
- Cosrx is a cruelty-free brand
Things I Disliked:
- Packaging is unhygienic and not light or air proof
Sources:
- Cosrx website www.cosrx.com
- Honey, propolis, and royal jelly: a comprehensive review of their biological actions and health benefits. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2017.
- Beeswax: a min review of its anti-microbial activity and its application in medicine. Asian Pacific Journal of Topical Medicine, 2016.
- Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effect of some topical application of some plant oils. International Jornal of Molecular Sciences, 2017.
- Significance of topical propolis in the treatment of facial acne vulgaris. The Egyptian Journal of Dermatology and Venerology, 2015.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Carbomers-934, -910, -934P, -940, -941, and -962. International Journal of Toxicology, 1990.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2001.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, and Dipropylene Glycol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1985.
