Torriden Cellmazing Centella Ampoule – Review

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The Torriden Cellmazing Centella Ampoule is a gentle hydrating formula that contains 80% Centella asiatica extract, a medicinal plant used for calming and soothing irritated, sensitive or damaged skin. This serum also contains four other bioactive compounds from Centella to heal and soothe even the most irritated or sensitive skin. The serum also contains lactobacillus ferment and ceramide for strengthening the skin microbiome and sodium hyaluronate for delivering moisture.

About Torriden:

Torriden is a new Korean-beauty (K-beauty) brand that aims to be a part of each person’s individual voyage to optimal beauty. The brand consists of three lines: DIVE-IN in which highlights low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, SOLID-IN which features ceramides and CELLMAZING  which contains Centella asicatica, or cica.  All lines are formulated to cater for the skins every need by covering hydration, moisturization and repair.

Torriden Claim

  • The low-pH ampoule that effectively calms sensitive skin, leaving skin hydrated and comfortable
  • Patented T-Percent Calming Complex™ with highly concentrated Centella Asiatica and Cica contents give delicate skin soothing care
  • Helps form the skin moisture barrier and maintain optimal pH balance for healthy skin
  • Delivers rich nutrients to revitalize skin, creating supple, radiant skin

Appearance and Scent:

The serum is a lightweight, slightly viscous brown gel. It spreads easily on the skin and does not leave a sticky residue, but does take a few minutes to dry down. The fragrance-free formula has no detectable scent.

Packaging, Size, Cost and Expiry:

The packaging is a plastic bottle with a dropper dispenser. The bottle contains 30 ml of product and expires 12 months after opening or 30 months after the date of manufacture. The cost is USD $24.00.

How to Use:

After cleansing and toning, apply a small amount and pat lightly to enhance absorption. Use morning and evening.

Ampules are considered to be serums with more concentrated active ingredients. They fit into a skincare runtime in the same way a serum does.

Application order:

Cleanser -> Toner -> Torriden Cellmazing Amouple -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser -> Cleanser ->  Toner -> Torriden Cellmazing Amouple ->  Moisturizer (nighttime)

Ingredients:

Centella Asiatica Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Propanediol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hamamelis Virginia (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Swertia Japonica Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Madacassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Dextrin, Water, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, 2,3-Butanediol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Xantham Gum, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Ingredient Analysis:

Centella asiatica leaf water is extracted from the herbaceous creeper that grows in swampy areas thought out India, Pakistan Sri Lanka, Madagascar, South Africa and Eastern Europe. It is commonly known as Gotu Kola and has been used to exert pharmacological effects in dermatology in the treatment of various skin lesions including burns, excoriations and eczema. It is considered to be an effective ingredient for antiaging and improving skin hydration.

It contains four key components (or saponins) that are largely responsible for its amazing skin benefits and are all present in this serum – Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, and Madasiatic Acid.

Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells.  This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells.  This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.

Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism.  In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn.  When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates.   It can also help with antiaging by increasing fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin. 

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient that contains antimicrobial peptides, that when applied to the skin acts as an anti-inflammatory and enhance the skins own antimicrobial properties. Results show that topical application is effective in reducing skin redness, repairing the skin’s barrier and reducing acne lesions.

Swerta japoinca Extract comes from the ancient medicinal plant that grows in East Asia and Japan. It is high in flavonoids, antioxidants and can help reduce the effects of sun-induced melanin synthesis, lightening, calming and soothing the skin.

Portulaca Oleracea Extract comes from the vegetable used for many centuries as a Korean herbal medicine for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties.  It is the best-known plant source of omega-3 fatty acids and contains many vitamins and minerals that are beneficial to the skin.

Ceramide NP is a lipid (oil) molecule that compromises a group of lipids naturally present in the skin called ceramides.  It is composed of a phytosphingosine base and stearic acid (a fatty acid).  Ceramide NP makes up around 22% of the total ceramide content of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin).  It has been proven to reduce fine lines and improve the skin structure by incorporating into the skins own lipid system and improving the skins barrier function.

Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water.  The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis.  It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is the salt derived from licorice root extract.  It is extracted from the root of the Glycyrrhia glabra, a plant known to possess many medicinal properties. It is one of the oldest herbal remedies with a rich history of medical medicine.  Its ongoing use is evolving so much that it has been referred to as “the plant of the future”. The root contains over 300 compounds that have been shown to be anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-ulcer anti-oxidant agents. The extract improves hyperpigmentation by dispersing melanin within the skin, inhibiting melanin biosynthesis and decreasing free radical production. The main component is the polyphenolic flavonoid Glabridin.  Studies have shown that glabridin prevents UVB induced pigmentation and exerts anti-inflammatory effects. It has also been used effectively in the treatment of dermatitis, eczema and acne.

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract comes from the seeds of the Cacao tree which has been used for more than 3000 years due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.  It is able to downregulate immune reactions, inhibit oxidative damage and protect the skin from UV light.

pH Testing:

I got a result of pH 5.4.

pH Analysis:

The pH of this ampoule is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). The pH is a skin-friendly 5.4 that will help to return the skin to its optimal acidity level after cleansing and ensure it maintains its optimal moisture balance and overall health. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.

Overall Impressions:

Centella asiatica, the first ingredient in this serum is my go-to remedy when my skin is irritated. This serum has no scent, is easy to apply and layers well under other skincare. It is very soothing and works great with the rest of my skincare routine. Since I have been using this serum I’ve noticed my skin texture appears smoother, it’s softer and youthful-looking. After a few minutes, it absorbs completely and works well to soothe and hydrate my skin during hot summer weather. I highly recommend this serum for anyone with sensitive, or acne-prone skin.

What I Liked:

  • Hydrating, calming and soothing
  • Fragrance, essential oil and alcohol-free
  • Safe for sensitive skin
  • Inexpensive
  • layers well with other products
  • Contains no unnecessary or sensitizing ingredients
  • Torriden is a vegan and cruelty-free brand

What I Disliked:

  • Can take several minutes to dry on the skin

This product was gifted to me by Splend in exchange for an unbiased review.

References: 

  • Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome, you never walk alone.  International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020
  • Topical use of probiotics: The natural balance.  Porto Biomedical Journal, 2017
  • Pharmacological review on centella asiatica: A potential herbal cure-all.  Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2010
  • Swertiajaponin inhibits skin pigmentation by dual mechanisms to suppress tyrosinase. Oncotarget, 2017
  • The structure, function, and importance of ceramics in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, 2014
  • New Skin-healing chemicals. Science Daily, 2007
  • Effects of centella asiatica extract on dermal wound healing in rats.  Indian Journal Experimental Biology, 1996
  • Evaluation of topical formulations of aqueous extract of centella asiatica on open wounds in rats.  Indian Journal Experimental Biology, 1998
  • Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview.  Phototherapy Research, 2014
  • Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model.  International Journal Molecular Sciences, 2017
  • Centella asiatica in cosmetology.  Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013
  • Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?  Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 2013
  • Glycyrrhiza glabra – A plant for the future.  Mintage Journal of Pharmaceutical and Medical Sciences, 2013
  • How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2010.
  • Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer.  International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2016
  • Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations.  Journal of cosmetic science, 2011
  • Cosmetics and toiletries: Positive products group extracts malachite for skin protection and repair, 2020
  • Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
  • Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit.  Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013
  • Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review.  3 Biotceh, 2016
  • Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981
  • The analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects of Portulaca oleracea L. subsp. Sativa (Haw.) Celak. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2000
  • Cocoa Bioactive Compounds: Significance and Potential for the Maintenance of Skin Health.  Nutrients, 2014
  • Purslane weed (Portulaca oleracea): a prospective plant source of nutrition, omega-3 fatty acid, and antioxidant attributes.  Scientific World Journal, 2014

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