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Tonymoly’s The Green Tea Truebiome Watery Essence is a lightweight essence with an impressive formula containing three fermented ingredients as well as 86% green tea leaf extract and several medical plant extracts. The formula is repairing and hydrating and is a great way to incorporate probiotic ingredients into your skincare routine.
Tonymoly Claims:
Formulated with Green Tea Extract and 89% True Biome, this watery serum helps to improve skin dryness, Infuses skin with deep moisture and leaves a nourished feeling. Containing Beech Bud Extract and Cowslip Extract helps to tighten and brighten up skin. All EWG Green Grade ingredients that are mild to skin.
The Turebiome range also includes an emulsion, toner and cream.
Appearance and Scent:
The essence is a lightweight gel texture with a viscosity slightly thicker than water. It has no added fragrances and no discernable scent.
Packaging, Size, Cost and Expiry:
The essence comes in a 55 ml plastic pump bottle. I purchased mine from StyleKorean for NZD $30.10 or USD $22. The expiry is 18 months after the date of manufacture.
How to Use:
Apply a proper amount evenly to the skin and pat gently to aid absorption before completing the rest of your skincare routine. As an essence, the product would be used after cleansing and toning, before moisturizing or using heavier serums. The product can also be used in the place of a toner.
Application order:
Cleanser -> toner -> Truebiome Watery Essence -> Serum -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser -> Cleanser -> Toner -> Turebiome Watery Essence -> Serum -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Formulation Science:
The formula contains three bacterial ferment lysates. Fermented products are produced when bacteria are grown on a nutrient-rich substrate. The bacteria in the resulting broth are then destroyed, so that cell contents and parts of the cell walls and cytoplasm are kept in the solution. This is referred to as a lysate and serves as a nutritional source for the resident, helpful bacteria that naturally colonize healthy skin. This helps reduce inflammation within the skin in the same way that has been shown by taking oral probiotic strains. Clinical studies have already reported that topical probiotics are capable of exerting skin health effects such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burns, and scars, rejuvenating the skin, and improving the skin’s innate immunity.
Beneficial ingredients for the skin that are abundant in bacterial lysates include hyaluronic acid, sphingomyelinase (an enzyme essential for ceramide production), lipoteichoic acid, and peptidoglycan, which stimulate the innate immune system and increase the production of antimicrobial peptides. Acetic acid, an antibacterial substance, and diacetyl, an antimicrobial agent that is effective against gram-negative pathogenic bacterial strains like Pseudomonas and E. coli.
Ingredients:
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (86 %), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C13-15 Alkane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Bifida Ferment Lysate (8,800 ppm), Lactococcus Ferment Lysate (8,800 ppm), Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate (8,800 ppm), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Vitex Agnus-Castus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Pyrus Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cucumis Melo (melon) Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Primula Veris Extract, Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
Ingredient Analysis:
Camellia sinensis leaf extract comes from the tea plant and is an abundant source of bioactive compounds. In the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, tea extracts provide strong antioxidant activity by strengthening blood vessels and increasing microcirculation. In the deeper skin layers, tea polyphenols provide UV radiation protection by absorbing UVB light and acting on various enzymes. These effects can delay skin ageing by downregulating enzymes responsible for degrading hyaluronic acid, lipids, collagen, and elastin. Tea polyphenols and catechins (EGCG being the most bioactive), also display antioxidant activity due to their free radical scavenging ability, decelerating the inflammatory process.
Bifida Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium bacteria. It is one of a few strains of lactic acid bacteria that can beneficially influence the metabolic activity and composition of the resident flora of the skin, and inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacterial strains. This study showed the application of a 10% Bifidobacterium longum extract helped improve the skins natural barrier function and decreased skin sensitivity in people with reactive skin.
Lactococcus ferment lysate is a probiotic ingredient that is produced when the cell membrane of the gram-positive bacterium Lactococcus lactic is broken or lysed. This releases the contents of the cell, which then can be used by resident skin flora (the good bacteria that live on the skin and keep it healthy) for growth. Lactococcus species have been shown to improve the skin barrier function when used topically.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient that contains antimicrobial peptides, that when applied to the skin acts as an anti-inflammatory and enhances the skins own antimicrobial properties. Results show that topical application is effective in reducing skin redness, repairing the skin’s barrier and reducing acne lesions.
Centella asiatica extract is a herbaceous creeper that grows in swampy areas thought out India, Pakistan Sri Lanka, Madagascar, South Africa and Eastern Europe. It is commonly known as Gotu kola or tiger grass because according to legend, injured tigers would roll in the plant in order to help heal their injuries. The medicinal herb is rich in antioxidants, amino acids, beta-carotene and fatty acids. It has been proven to treat various skin conditions including those with irritation or redness like psoriasis or eczema. It also boosts circulation and has been shown to increase collagen and hyaluronic acid production within the skin and improve the signs of aging.
Portulaca Oleracea Extract comes from the vegetable used for many centuries as a Korean herbal medicine for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties. It is the best-known plant source of omega-3 fatty acids and contains many vitamins and minerals that are beneficial to the skin.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract comes from the German Chamomile plant. It has several pharmacological properties and is often used as a skin-conditioning agent, anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient.
Ceramide NP is a lipid (oil) molecule that compromises a group of lipids naturally present in the skin called ceramides. It is composed of a phytosphingosine base and stearic acid (a fatty acid). Ceramide NP makes up around 22% of the total ceramide content of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin). It has been proven to reduce fine lines and improve the skin structure by incorporating into the skins own lipid system and improving the skins barrier function.
Pyrus Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract comes from the Asian Pear and is considered an important medicinal plant that has been in use since prehistoric times. It exhibits antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, skin brightening activity. It is effective in wound healing action and can reduce the development of scars by increasing the cross-linking of collagen fibres increasing the strength of the skin structure.
Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract is a vasoconstrictor (constricts blood vessels). This makes it stimulating to blood circulation and has been proven to be effective in treating cellulite.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 5.9.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this essence is just inside the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Results:
This essence is easily absorbed and fits into my skincare routine well. I do notice some minor plumping and hydrating results when I use this essence, and I really enjoy how easily it absorbs into my skin. I prefer using a slightly thicker essence and find this product is much more user-friendly than an essence with the consistency of water. However, I wouldn’t say this is a must-have product for my routine, but I know the ingredients would be working overtime to repair my skin and help provide a strong and resilient moisture barrier.
Overall Impressions:
This is a really impressive essence from an ingredient and formulation point of view. There is a good number of effective and scientifically proven ingredients that nourish and protect the skin moisture barrier in concentrations high enough to be really effective. As an essence, I feel it would more ideally suit oily skin or use in the summer, but may not be hydrating enough for dry or mature skin types. I really appreciate it when products are packaged in pumps instead of unhygienic jars that expose the product to air and light. I find a little goes a long way and it layers with all other skincare products I have used before and after applying.
Things I Liked:
- An impressive list of active ingredients in high concentrations
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and preservatives
- Affordable
- Safe for sensitive skin
- Tonymoly is certified cruelty-free
Things I Disliked:
- The pH is slightly higher than optimal for healthy skin
Sources:
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- Skin Protective Effect of Epigallocatechin Gallate. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2018.
- Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome, you never walk alone. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.
- Topical use of probiotics: The natural balance. Porto Biomedical Journal, 2017.
- The structure, function, and importance of ceramics in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, 2014.
- New Skin-healing chemicals. Science Daily, 2007.
- Are skincare products with probiotics worth the hype? Dermatology times, 2016.
- Bioactive from probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
- Phytochemistry and pharmacological activity of pear (pyrus communis linn): A review. Plant Archives, 2020.
- A Review of the Application and Pharmacological Properties of α-Bisabolol and α-Bisabolol-Rich Oils. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society, 2009.
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Bisabolol. International Journal of Toxicology, 1999.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
- The analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects of Portulaca oleracea L. subsp. Sativa (Haw.) Celak. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2000.
- Purslane weed (Portulaca oleracea): a prospective plant source of nutrition, omega-3 fatty acid, and antioxidant attributes. Scientific World Journal, 2014.
