The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 – Review

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The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is a viscous serum containing three different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid (HA), a naturally occurring molecule within the skin, that when applied topically is well known for its ability to attract water, visibly filling fine lines and plumping the skin. All skin types can benefit from increased hydration and with hyaluronic acid being a skin-identical ingredient, this ingredient is one of the best ways to increase moisture within the skin.

The Ordinary Claim:

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) can attract up to 1,000 times its weight in water. The molecular size of HA determines its depth of delivery in the skin. This formulation combines low-, medium- and high-molecular-weight HA, as well as a next-generation HA crosspolymer at a combined concentration of 2% for multi-depth hydration. This system is supported by the addition of Vitamin B5 which also enhances surface hydration.

Appearance and Scent:

The serum is a transparent liquid that is the consistency of a viscous gel. It leaves a sticky residue on the skin that reminds me of the Cosrx Snail Mucin Power Essence. There is no detectable scent.

Packaging, Size, and Expiry:

The Ordinary products all come in simple, uncomplicated packaging, and the dropper bottle is no exception. This gives the advantage of being hygienic and allowing the price point of the product to remain low. The bottle contains 30 ml or 60 ml of product and expires 6 months after opening.

Price and Number of Uses:

It retails at US $8 dollars or NZ $12 for 30 mls, or US$ 15 or NZ $23 for 60 mls. The 30ml bottle lasted me about three months with daily usage.

How to Use:

Apply a few drops to the face in the morning and evening before applying heavier serums and creams.  Do not apply to a dry face, especially in dry climates, or the HA could absorb the moisture out of the deeper layers of the skin. It is best applied to a damp face, followed immediately by either additional serums or an occlusive moisturizer to prevent any moisture from evaporating. The easiest way to incorporate this into your routine is to either use it immediately after cleansing on a still damp face, after spritzing your face with water or toner or after applying essence or toner on the skin.

Formulation Analysis:

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in nearly every cell of the body.  It has a skin-supporting function in the dermis, maintains epidermal barrier function, immobilizes water in tissues, influences cell proliferation, and differentiation, and plays an essential role in wound healing and inflammatory responses.  The skin utilizes almost 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid.  The molecule has a negative charge allowing it to bind with water and form a viscous gel. As a result, it is used for dermal fillers and as a topical skin moisturizing ingredient.   The extraction of hyaluronic acid is either from animal tissues or via large-scale bacterial fermentation using genetically modified bacterial stains. Extracted initially from cow eyes, then more recently roosters combs. The most ethical way to produce hyaluronic acid is by genetically modifying strains of bacteria like E. coli, Bacillus, and Lactococcus species.  Deciem uses the process of bacterial fermentation to source its hyaluronic acid, making it vegan and cruelty-free.

The Ordinary claims that while hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin, its primary function within the skin is not hydration. As the hyaluronic acid molecule is too large to penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, and instead sits on the skin surface, drawing moisture out of the skin. This makes the surface feel soft and hydrated temporarily but does not contribute towards the hydration of the dermis. The Ordinary’s formulation has addressed this issue by adding three forms of HA with varying molecular weights, as well as an HA crosspolymer. This allows the HA molecules to be absorbed into the lower lays of the skin, and provide hydration and visible plumping, without drawing water out of the skin.

This article published in The Polish Journal of Cosmetology found a significant improvement and wrinkle reduction was observed after applying low molecular weight hyaluronic acid due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. However, it was also noted that high molecular weight hyaluronic acid could also be beneficial by forming a film on the surface of the skin protecting the stratum corneum. This layer prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and moisturizes the outer layer of the skin. HA is added to skincare formulation as a humectant and can bind to approximately 250 water molecules, giving a full, plum appearance.

Ingredients:

Aqua (Water), Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Glycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol.

Ingredient Analysis:

Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives (HA crosspolymers) offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water.  The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis.  It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).

Pentylene glycol is used to stabilize emulsions, as a solvent and as an antimicrobial agent. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has assessed the safety of like glycols for the use of the skincare industry and concluded that while they are absorbed by the skin, they are considered safe and non-toxic in the concentrations used topically.

Propanediol is a fatty alcohol used as a penetration enhancing ingredient that is also hydrating and leaves a slightly greasy/oily residue on the skin. It can act as a solvent or an emulsifier and can be added to skincare to reduce the viscosity of the formulation.  It can be produced synthetically or by using a non-pathogenic strain of E. coli to ferment corn-derived glucose. 

Panthenol is the provitamin of B5 and functions as a moisturizer and emollient.  It is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn.

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract is a polysaccharide extracted from the alga Ahnfeltia concinna. It enhances the skins ability to retain water and improves the skin moisture barrier. The skincare manufacturer Lesielle claims it also acts as an anti-oxidant that may increase circulation. In addition to protecting the skin, it is also used as a gel-forming agent to thicken skincare formulations. There is very little information on this ingredient. However, this article published in the Journal of cosmetic dermatology carried out an evaluation of the activity of skincare ingredients from marine and maritime origins and found that they could help preserve a healthy dermis and epidermis and possibly prevent the visible signs of aging.

Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells.  This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

pH Testing

I got a result of 6.3. The Ordinary website states the pH will lie between 6.5 and 7.5.

pH Analysis:

Although hyaluronic acid is generally not pH-dependent, The Ordinary expects the pH of this product as 6.5 – 7.5. As the pH of healthy facial skin lies between 4.5-5.5, this product is too alkaline to provide any benefit to the skin and may even be harmful. The slightly alkaline pH could affect the health of the skin long-term, which could potentially have the effect of damaging the skins moisture barrier and causing breakouts with long-term use. This is the same issue I have with the Oridnarys NMF + HA moisturizer, except the Natural Moisturizing Factor of the skin does require the correct pH to work. You can read my review here, and about why the pH of skincare products are so important here.

Results:

My preferred method of application is applying the serum immediately after patting a generous amount of toner into my skin. As it is such a thick consistency, I usually add a few drops into another serum, or a small amount of toner, this makes it slightly less likely to be sticky on the skin. While it does give some visible plumping results, the serum is designed to give more long-term, skin-improving benefits.

Overall Impressions:

While the high molecular weight molecule of the hyaluronic acid is unable to penetrate deep within the skin, they do sit on the skin surface of the skin and hold moisture to protect the skin. This serum contains three different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, to ensure different absorption abilities of the serum. The serum is a great way to add a hydrating ingredient into your routine, or simply find out If hyaluronic acid is an ingredient your skin would benefit from. Due to the price point, this serum is a great place to start. If it works I would, however, recommend purchasing a more effective and skin-friendly formulation. The other hyaluronic acid-containing formulations I have used also seems to have a more silky feeling when applied to the skin and absorb more readily without a sticking feeling.  My favourite HA serum is the  NIOD in Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex, which contains 15 forms of HA, including precursors of HA.  The pH of this serum (4.0-5.0), is also much closer to that of the healthy value of the skin. I’m always confused as to why The Ordinary takes the time to list the pH of each product on their website, but don’t formulate their products to be within an optimal range. Especially since their much more expensive brand NIOD, have most of their products sitting around a pH of 5.5.

What I Liked:

• Hydrating and soothing
• Fragrance, essential oil, and alcohol-free
• Inexpensive
• Simple, and hygienic packaging
• The brand is cruelty-free and vegan

What I Disliked:

• Slow absorbing and can feel sticky on the skin
• The pH is not within the range of healthy skin
• The packaging does not protect active ingredients from air or light

References: 

• The Ordinary Website
• Lesielle Adaptive Skincare www.lesielle.com
• Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit.  Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
• Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review.  3 Biotceh, 2016.
• Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4^th Edition, 2015
• Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
• Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4^th Edition, 2015.
• Anti-aging effects of L-arginine.  Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
• Significance of hyaluronic acid and cosmetic industry and aesthetic medicine. Polish Journal of Cosmetology, 2012.
• Safety assessment of 1, 2-glycols as used in cosmetics. International Journal of toxicology, 2012.
• Prediction of skin anti-aging clinical benefits of an Association of ingredients from marine and maritime origins: Ex vivo evaluation using a label-free quantitative proteomic and customized data processing approach. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 2018.