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The Ordinary Amino Acids + B5 is a serum containing several naturally occurring components used by the skin to maintain its barrier function, become more healthy and hydrated. In addition, Panthenol, the precursor to Vitamin B5 has several anti-aging, skin repairing and hydrating benefits. This lightweight, easily absorbed serum is suitable for all skin types and visibly improves the long term health of the skins moisture barrier.
The Ordinary Claims:
This concentrated solution includes Amino Acids and Amino Acid derivatives creating a combined total concentration of 17% (by weight). This resembles the composition of Amino Acids found in the skin’s own Natural Moisturizing Factors and provides enhanced barrier support, elasticity, osmotic balance and desquamation. The formulation also includes a 5% (by weight) concentration of D-Panthenol which is a pro-vitamin of Vitamin B5 to provide surface and below-surface hydration while aiding in skin repair and anti-irritant functions. Amino Acids + B5 offers non-greasy hydration support for the maintenance of healthy, functioning skin.
Appearance and Scent:
The serum is a clear-coloured liquid that is the consistency of a watery, yet very light-weight oil. Despite the appearance, it absorbs quickly and leaves no oily residue on the skin. There is no detectable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The Ordinary products have straightforward packaging, and the glass dropper bottle is no different. It’s hygienic and helps to keep the product affordable. However, it doesn’t shield the product from air exposure, and the glass bottle can be fragile during travel. The bottle holds 30ml of product and has a shelf life of 12 months after opening.
Cost and number of uses:
The Ordinary Amino Acids + B5 retails for NZD $11.00 or US $8.00. My current bottle has lasted me around six months, with about 1/4 of the bottle remaining.
How to Use:
Apply a few drops to cleansed face in the morning and evening before applying other serums or moisturizers. It is best to apply on clean and dry skin and avoid acidic toners. The Ordinary website warns that a tingling sensation can be expected after the application; but if the sensation becomes too strong to tolerate, the formula can be mixed with other creams or serums before each application to reduce the strength. My skin can be quite sensitive, but I have never found this to be the case, but I would still avoid applying this to broken skin.
Formulation Analysis:
The symptoms of dry skin can be improved by increasing the hydration levels of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin), through replenishing the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). These are the water-soluble components like free amino acids, organic acids, urea, and inorganic ions that determine the skin’s water-holding properties. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally. Dry and damaged skin is no longer able to produce NMF’s and an abnormality in this pathway is thought to be responsible for causing atopic dermatitis. Thankfully the skin can benefit greatly from the topical application of these skin-identical components.
The NMF is composed of:
- 40% Amino acids
- 18.5% Minerals (sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium)
- 12% PCA
- 12% Lactates
- 8.5% sucrose, organic acids and peptides
- 7% Urea
- 1.5% Uric acid, glucosmine and creatine
- 0.5% Citrates
This serum contains many of the key components of the NMF. The skin is constantly regenerating and replenishing these components, but this process decreases as we age. By adding NMF components into your skincare routine, the skins protective barrier is strengthened, signs of aging are diminished, the skin is hydrated, less prone to irritation and is healthier.
Ingredients:
Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Betaine, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, PCA, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Proline, Isoleucine, Lysine HCl, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Glutamic Acid, Citric Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.
Ingredient Analysis:
Propanediol is a fatty alcohol used as a penetration enhancing ingredient that is also hydrating and leaves a slightly greasy/oily residue on the skin. It can act as a solvent or an emulsifier and can be added to skincare to reduce the viscosity of the formulation. It can be produced synthetically or by using a non-pathogenic strain of E. coli to ferment corn-derived glucose.
Betaine is a naturally occurring amino acid called trimethylglycine. It is extracted from sugar beets and functions as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant and a viscosity increasing agent.
PCA or Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid is a skin-identical ingredient and a component of the NMF of human skin. It is responsible for giving skin its suppleness, water absorbing and moisturizing properties. Sodium PCA is the salt form of PCA, a amino acid called Proline that is found in all living cells. At the pH of healthy skin (average 4.7), PCA exists almost exclusively in the salt form.
Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism. In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn. When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates. It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast prolifereation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin.
Sodium lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, a component of the natural moisturization factor (NMF) and plays a role in maintaining the hydration of the skin. It is produced by the fermentation of sugar and plays a role in maintaining the hydration of the skin.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor NMF) of the skin.
Amino Acids are the building blocks of protein molecules. Amino acids are widely used as a skincare additives and function as skin-conditioning agents. Amino acids are involved in various biochemical pathways for the formation of collagen or the prevention of collagen breakdown within the skin.
This formula does not contain any water, silicones, oils or alcohol.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 4. The Ordinary website states the pH of the product will be between 4.75 and 5.25.
pH Analysis:
As the pH of healthy facial skin lies between 4.5-5.5, and this product is formulated at a pH within this range, it can be used to improve the long-term health of the skin and the microbiome. As the skins barrier function is so dependent on the pH of the products that come into contact with it, it is so important to use skincare formulated within the pH range of healthy skin. For this reason, I dislike the Ordinary’s NMF + HA moisturizer (even those these two products are designed to work in a similar way), because it is too alkaline for the ingredients to work optimally and may cause irritation or acne. You can read my review here, and about why the pH of skincare products are so important here.
Results:
I’ve been using The Ordinary Amino Acids serum for the past four months, and I’m pleased to share my experience with this product. This serum is quickly absorbed into the skin and pairs well with moisturizers and sunscreen. It’s been a game-changer for me in terms of reducing redness and improving my overall skin tone. I really love this serum because there are so many proven benefits behind applying components of the NMF to the skin, but I have struggled to find products that are formulated at the correct pH or include the ingredients in high enough concentration to be effective.
Overall Impressions:
I typically use 5-6 drops to cover my face and neck, but I’ve found that a more generous application works better for me. While this serum can be mixed with other products, I prefer to apply it after cleansing my face on clean, dry skin. Waiting 15 minutes before applying other acidic products is also essential to avoid deactivating any of the ingredients in the serum. One thing that I appreciate about this serum is that it doesn’t cause any burning or irritation, which can be common with other skincare products. I’ve had no adverse reactions, making this serum a reliable and trusted choice for me.
Overall, I recommend The Ordinary Amino Acids serum to anyone looking to improve their skin’s overall health and appearance. It’s an easy-to-use, effective, and gentle product that has made a noticeable difference in my skincare routine. I will continue to repurchase this serum in the future, and I encourage others to give it a try.
What I Liked:
- Fragrance, alcohol, and preservative-free
- Inexpensive and effective
- Simple, hygienic, and lightproof packaging
- Contains no unnecessary or sensitizing ingredients
- The brand is cruelty-free and vegan
What I Disliked:
- Can’t be used at the same time as other acidic products
- May cause a stinging sensation
- Reasonably short shelf-life
- The packaging does not protect active ingredients from the air
- Glass packaging may not be travel friendly
References:
- The Ordinary Website
- Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer. International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2016.
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011.
- Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid as a moisturising agent. International Journal of ChemTech Research, 2013.
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
- Cosmetic and Dermatologic Problems and Solutions, Zoe Diana Draelos, 2011.
- The Effect of Natural Moisturizing Factors on the Interaction Between Water Molecules and Keratin, Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome, Noriaki Nakagawa, pp 431-439.
- Considerations in selecting a moisturizer. Wehr RF, Krochmal L, 1987
- Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- 12% Lactate Lotion for the Treatment of Xerosis: A Double-blind Clinical Evaluation. Archives of Dermatology, 1983.
