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The Biossance Squalane + Elderberry Jelly Cleanser is an oil-based jelly-like texture that contains a probiotic complex to strengthen the skin’s microbiome without stripping the skins moisture barrier. It is gentle and nourishing for the skin due to the combination of gentle surfactants, elderberry extract, squalane and post-biotics. It has a thick texture that is applied to dry skin, where it is effective at dissolving light makeup. Once mixed with water it emulsifies and rinses clean. It is gentle and nonirritating but has to be used as the first step of a two-step cleansing routine because it is not effective enough on its own to remove waterproof makeup and sunscreen effectively.
Biossance Claims:
A gentle yet powerful all-in-one jelly cleanser nourishes your unique microbiome while effortlessly erasing makeup, daily pollutants and impurities. Antioxidant-rich elderberry extract and a nourishing prebiotic complex strengthen, protect, and promote an overall healthier-looking complexion while hydrating squalane leaves the skin super clean, soft, and fully refreshed.
This innovative cleanser transforms from a gorgeous, naturally hued jelly to a silky oil and rinses clean as luxuriously soft cleansing milk.
Appearance and Scent:
The cleaner is an oily-jelly like texture. The fuchsia colour is derived from the Elderberry extract. No artificial colourants or fragrances have been added, but there is a scent of elderberry and blackcurrent.
Packaging, Size, Cost and Expiry:
The cleanser comes in a 150 ml plastic squeeze tube. It is available from Sephora for NZD $55.00. The expiry is 12 months after opening or three years after the date of manufacture.
How to Use:
Apply a small amount to dry skin, massaging to break down makeup and impurities. Add warm water to emulsify and easily remove sunscreen, dirt and pollution. Rinse well. This can be an all-in-one cleanser or you can use this with a water-based cleanser for double cleansing. This can be used in the morning and evening.
Application order:
Squalane and Elderberry Jelly Cleanser -> Toner -> Essence -> Serum -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Squalane and Elderberry Jelly Cleanser -> Water-based cleanser -> Toner -> Essence -> Serum -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Formulation Science:
The INCI (ingredient) list of this cleanser lists Lactobacillus, which is a live microorganism. However on their website they say:
“The prebiotics in the Elderberry Jelly Cleanser are plant-derived. They are technically oligosaccharides that are carbohydrates from root vegetables. They are not alive, they do not require preservation”.
Looking into the ingredient complex called Ecoskin, the manufacturer Solabia Group claims “Ecoskin is an active ingredient, spray dried on maltodextrin, made of :
– α-glucooligosaccharides (GOS), obtained by enzymatic synthesis, from vegetable substrates (corn maltose, beetroot saccharose),
– 100% vegetable juice, rich in β-fructooligosaccharides (FOS), obtained by cold pressing, of yacon tubers (Polymnia sonchifolia),
– Lactobacillus probiotic bacteria (L. casei, L. acidophilus), inactivated (inhibition of their growth).”
Therefore the formula contains Lactobacillus strain lysates. Fermented products are produced when bacteria are grown on a nutrient-rich substrate. The bacteria in the resulting broth are then destroyed, so that cell contents and parts of the cell walls and cytoplasm are kept in the solution. This is referred to as a lysate and serves as a nutritional source for the resident, helpful bacteria that naturally colonize healthy skin. This helps reduce inflammation within the skin in the same way that has been shown by taking oral probiotic strains. Clinical studies have already reported that topical probiotics are capable of exerting skin health effects such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burns, and scars, rejuvenating the skin, and improving the skin’s innate immunity.
Consumer Trial Results:
Biossance was able to show:
In a 7-day consumer use study of 34 women, ages 18 to 50, once-daily use:
– 100% agree skin is deeply cleansed without feeling stripped
– 100% agree skin feels nourished
In a 21-day consumer use study of 34 women, ages 18 to 50, once-daily use:
– 97% agree skin appears more radiant
Ingredients:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Water/Aqua/Eau, Squalane, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Stearate, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sucrose Palmitate, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Citric Acid.
Ingredient Analysis:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, skin softening ingredient that is capable of retaining moisture and repairing the skin due to its high fatty acid content. It also has the ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients without leaving an oily residue on the skin. It is produced by mixing coconut oil or palm kernel oil with glycerin.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Squalane is a skin-identical ingredient naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and makes up 13% of the composition of sebum along with triglycerides and wax esters. Its function is to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier of the skin. The amount of squalene naturally produced by the skin starts to decrease from the age of 30.
Hydrogenated Farnesene is a plant-derived form of hemi-squalene. It acts as an emollient with silicone-like sensorial properties. It is present as a component of essential oils in plants and is produced in insects like aphids as an alarm pheromone.
Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice is a perennial plant native related to the sunflower family, that grows in the mountainous regions of South America. It contains an abundant source of natural prebiotics fructooligosaccharides (FOS), inulin and phenolic compounds. Fructooligosaccharides enhance the skin’s water-binding ability, providing increased levels of hydration. In addition, FOS are a perfect nutrient for beneficial bacteria, improving the microbiota balance of the skin and enhancing the defence against bacterial infection. This all contributes to the strengthening of the skin’s protective barrier and the minimization of irritation on the skin.
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide is a polymer containing repeating glucose units. When used topically it is able to reduce water loss from the top layer of skin, and make atmospheric moisture more available for the skin, thereby reducing flaking and cracking of dry skin. Thus it makes skin supple and soft. It is also a popular probiotic for use in skincare as it is considered to be a bio-selective substrate, which means it can enhance the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin without promoting the growth of pathogenic or unwanted bacteria.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient that contains antimicrobial peptides, that when applied to the skin act as an anti-inflammatory and enhance the skins own antimicrobial properties. Results show that topical application is effective in reducing skin redness, repairing the skin’s barrier and reducing acne lesions.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract is known for its antioxidant-rich compounds like ferulic acid, gamma-oryzanol and phytic acid. It is commonly used as an ingredient in skincare and for managing skin diseases. Its bioactive compounds have been shown to exert antiaging properties.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract comes from the Helianthus annuus plant seed. It consists of oleic (omega 9) and linoleic (omega 6) acids and is utilized in skincare due to its high linoleic acid concentration. Sunflower seed oil has been shown to improve stratum corneum integrity and improve hydration and enhance the skin barrier repair mechanisms.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Rosemary plant. The most common function in skincare is as a fragrance ingredient, but it also may have skin conditioning and antioxidant properties. It is important to note this is not an essential oil, and the International Journal of Toxicology has found it to be non-sensitizing.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 6.9.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this essence is outside the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. As the pH of healthy facial skin is on average 4.7, this product is likely to be drying to the skin, which is unfortunate in a product that is marketed towards people with dry, sensitive skin. Lactobacillus is proven to increase the number of beneficial bacteria on the skin, and improve the skins moisture barrier, but it can only do so when a product is formulated at the correct pH, which this product is unfortunately not.
Results:
This cleanser claims to be able to replace the double cleansing method (an initial oil cleanse to remove makeup and sunscreen followed by a water-based cleanser to remove any remaining debris), by being able to fulfil both of these steps. As you can see from the photos below, while it is able to remove light eye makeup, I have not found it effective enough to remove waterproof mascara or eyeliner. It however is a perfect cleanser for those of us with dry skin who prefer an oil cleanser for the morning. When stubborn makeup is not an issue, it does a very good job of cleansing the skin and leaving the moisture barrier intact. It is a very gentle cleanser and is non-striping, and leaves the skin feeling hydrated after rinsing I do not think this would be suitable for acne-prone or oily skin types. It can also be used as a second cleanse after first using a makeup remover or micellar water to remove makeup.
Overall Impressions:
The directions on the packaging (but not on the website) say to “apply to damp skin and massage to remove impurities”. When applying cleanser instantly turned into a thin milky consistency, was unable to lather and was not able to remove my makeup at all. This method in my opinion does not work for this formulation and essentially did almost nothing to cleanse the skin. However, when applied to dry skin, and massaged in with adequate time for the oils to break down makeup and SPF, the cleanser does a good job of cleansing dry skin without causing irritation. I suspect they have removed this instruction from the website because other people were finding the same thing. I have found this works best in my routine as a single cleanser in the morning but is not effective enough, or worth the extra rubbing and tugging on my skin at the end of the day.
Things I Liked:
- Gentle formulation without irritating ingredients
- Safe for sensitive skin
- Contains prebiotic and postbiotic ingredients
- Vegan and cruelty-free
Things I Disliked:
- The brand is not transparent about all of the ingredients
- Not effective for heavy or waterproof makeup
Sources:
- Solabia Group Website www.solabia.com
- Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome, you never walk alone. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020
- Topical use of probiotics: The natural balance. Porto Biomedical Journal, 2017
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Are skincare products with probiotics worth the hype? Dermatology times, 2016
- Bioactive from probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013
- Yacon (Smallanthus sonchifolius): a functional food. Plant Foods Humman Nutrition, 2013
- Phytochemical Properties and Nutrigenomic Implications of Yacon as a Potential Source of Prebiotic: Current Evidence and Future Directions, Foods, 2018..Rice water: a traditional ingredient with anti-aging efficiency. Cosmetics, 2018
- Future edible oil of India; rice bran oil – “the wonder oil”. SM Journal of Food and Nutritional Disorders, 2015
- Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effect of some topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2017
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018
