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The Summer + Bloom Sola Drops Vitamin C Intensive Repair Gel is a well-formulated serum that combines three of the newest vitamin C derivatives to work synergistically to provide the skin with anti-oxidant and UV protection while decreasing the effects of sun damage and pigmentation. It gives a beatifical glow to the skin, and the formula also contains the powerful antioxidant astaxanthin which aids in cell function while providing additional antioxidant activity.
Summer + Bloom Claim:
Powered by one of the world’s most potent antioxidants, astaxanthin helps to protect your skin from damaging UV rays while improving elasticity and aiding healthy skin cell function.
Using three varieties of Vitamin C to achieve optimal delivery into the epidermis, Sola Drops can dramatically lighten, brighten, even out skin tone and help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation.
Despite the high concentration of Vitamin C Sola Drops is gentle on the skin and will provide a visible difference to your skin in days.
Appearance and Scent:
The constancy is similar to that of a gel, which makes it easily absorbed into the skin. It feels very lightweight and absorbs without any residual stickiness. The fragrance free formula has no discernible scent.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The serum comes in an air and light-proof plastic pump bottle, that is durable yet, functional, and stylish. The bottle contains 30 ml.
Never keep skincare (and especially Vitamin C) in the bathroom as the heat and humidity will decrease the shelf life dramatically.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The Sola Drops Vitamin C Intense Repair Gel retails for NZD $45.00. This serum has lasted me seven weeks when used every second day.
How to Use:
At night after cleansing, apply 1-2 pumps of Sola Drops to the face and neck. Leave for 2-3 minutes to allow the gel to penetrate the epidermis before applying your moisturisers. Use 2-3 times a week. Follow with the rest of your skincare routine and always use sunscreen during the day. Use in the morning to provide additional UV protection.
Avoid using products that contain hydroxy acids or retinol at the same time as Vitamin C containing products and it is advised to wait at least 10 minutes after applying Vitamin C containing products before applying any subsequent skincare. This is because the effectiveness of any Vitamin C containing the formula is dependent on having the correct pH for the skin to absorb and utilize the vitamin. While this serum contains ascorbyl glucoside, a more pH stable Ascorbic acid derivative, this step may not be as important, but I still like to apply any Vitamin C serums this way to get the maximum benefit.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Summer + Bloom Sola Drops (wait 10 minutes) -> Serum (optional) -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Formulation Science:
Healthy skin naturally contains a large amount of vitamin C when compared to other body tissues, and skin has a higher concentration than that of blood plasma, suggesting it actively accumulates in the skin after transportation to the cells from blood cells. Several studies have shown that vitamin C levels are lower in aged individuals or those with photodamaged skin. If the plasma concentration of vitamin C is low, it can be applied topically to the epidermal layer of the skin, however, the effectiveness of this depends largely on the formulation of the vitamin C containing product.
Vitamin C is one of the few skincare ingredients with a large and proven body of research supporting its claimed efficacy in skincare. The most well studied and most potent form of vitamin C’s is L-ascorbic acid, but it can cause skin irritation (especially to sensitive skin types) due to its acidic nature. Not to mention that L-ascorbic acid also conflicts with some of other skincare ingredients like retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), and is prone to rapid oxidation meaning it is hard to formulate with and often has a short shelf life.
This is why vitamin C derivatives are gaining popularity. They are known to offer the same benefit as L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C, without causing skin sensitivity or conflicting with some skincare ingredients. Not only are vitamin C derivatives mild on the skin but are also stable to heat and air, unlike L-ascorbic acid, meaning skincare products last longer and are therefore offer a greater value for money. In addition, Vitamin C derivatives are known to penetrate deeper into the skin.
One downside of vitamin C derivatives is, they are less potent than L-ascorbic acid vitamin C, as they have to be converted to L-ascorbic acid inside the skin before delivering its potential to the skin. However, as someone who has sensitive skin, I prefer to use multiple vitamin C derivatives in the same formula, as the new research coming out in this area is looking promising that certain combinations (of oil and water-soluble derivatives_) are able to deliver overlapping results.
If you’re too sensitive to L-ascorbic acid (which is the acidic form of vitamin C), I suggest you should try the vitamin C derivatives, so as to enjoy vitamin C skin benefits without experiencing any sort of irritation.
Ingredients:
Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Heptyl Undecylenate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Betaine, Almond/borage/linseed/olive acids/glycerides, Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin, Glycerin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Astaxanthin.
Ingredient Analysis:
Ascorbyl glucoside is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that has been combined with a glucose molecule. Once absorbed by the skin, it is broken down into L-ascorbic acid (the most potent form of Vitamin C). As it eventually becomes ascorbic acid, it still gives most of the same benefits like anti-oxidant protection from UV exposure and brightening and increasing collagen production. Still, it is much less likely to cause irritation. It is also much more stable and less prone to oxidation than L-ascorbic acid. The most significant benefit of ascorbyl glucoside is that it can be used over a much broader pH range than other Vitamin C derivatives (like L-ascorbic acid that requires a pH of 2.5-.35 to be most effective. Instead, it is able to be used in formulas with pH ranges of 5-8 (although no skincare should be as high as pH 8). The only downside is that clinical studies are lacking and the rate of conversion from ascorbyl glucoside within the skin to L-ascorbic acid is still not known.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, is a derivative of Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), the most abundant antioxidant in the skin. It is an essential water-soluble micronutrient that plays a central role as a cofactor and several enzymatic reactions and cellular processes including collagen synthesis, cellular oxidation, and is instrumental in the protection of cells against oxidative damage caused by free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that accumulate and cause diseases like cancer, and ageing associated with oxidative stress. Vitamin C has been shown to be effective at wound healing, and this is directly related to its ability to act as a cofactor for the synthesis of new collagen.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble, tetra-ester of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid. This Vitamin C derivative has been clinically proven, is less prone to oxidation, and oil-soluble. It is able to effectively convert to free L-Ascorbic acid in the skin, where it can inhibit the activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis to brighten pigmentation, reduce UV-induced cell and DNA damage, provide potent antioxidant properties, and boost collagen synthesis.
Betaine is a naturally occurring amino acid called trimethylglycine. It is extracted from sugar beets (Beta vulgaris) and functions as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant and viscosity increasing agent. It has also been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory and shows some benefits as an antiaging agent that can protect the skin from free radical damage.
Pullulan is a polysaccharide produced from the fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans that is gaining popularity in the pharmaceutical industry due to its unique characteristics, including that it is water-soluble, unlike most polysaccharides. This allows it to bind water once absorbed into the skin. According to the manufacturer, DKSH, it provides an instant lifting and effect to the skin that may help strengthen the skin’s microbiome.
Lecithin is a mix of phospholipids that are able to nourish and protect the skin by penetrating and incorporating into cell membranes. It is able to form a film on the skins surface that reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), aiding skin hydration.
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract comes from the species of legume native to East Asia. They contain many functional compounds, including phenolic acids, flavonoids, tannins and small proteins. When added to skincare, it can act as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, stimulate collagen, decrease pigmentation and protect against UV radiation.
Astaxanthin is a carotenoid (a class of red, yellow or orange pigments) synthesized by a microalgae that is fat-soluble meaning that it can dissolve into our fatty cell membranes, helping to rejuvenate skin, reduce cell damage and inflammation as well as protecting again UV induced pigmentation. It may also help to inhibit collagenases, which are the enzymes that can encourage collagen breakdown.
This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial also found that astaxanthin can help with UV induced skin deterioration, possibly due to its powerful antioxidant activity. Further research has also shown it may help with the management of inflammatory conditions.
pH Testing:
I got a pH result of 4.
pH Analysis:
This product was formulated within the optimal pH of Vitamin C containing products, (a pH below 4 has been shown to be most effective for Vitamin C containing skincare). In addition, the pH of this serum is within the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7), and within the manufactures pH guidelines for formulating with ascorbyl glucoside. This means it will support a healthy skin barrier and be effective at improving the overall health of the skin long-term. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
My Experience:
If you have sensitive skin like I do, and can find L-ascorbic acid (which is the acidic form of vitamin C), a little irritating at times, I suggest you should try the vitamin C derivatives, so as to benefit from the vitamin C skin-benefits, including UV protection, brightening and collagen synthesis, without experiencing any sort of irritation. This serum with three derivatives is suitable for most skin types. If you have a combination, oily or acne-prone skin type, this water-based serum won’t make your skin greasy, clog your pores or make your skin oily. If you have normal or dry skin, this is an excellent alternative to pure Ascorbic acid, which in higher concentrations can be drying.
Overall Impressions:
This serum feels comfortable and light on the skin. It applies without a sticky residue and sinks completely into the skin. The serum has a thick gel-texture (but not too thick) and feels lightweight on the skin. It absorbs quickly but leaves not tacky feeling or stickiness behind. My skin has been looking radiant since I have been using this and it is fast becoming one of my favorite Vitamin C serums. I like that the packaging protects the formula further from air and light and that there is no added fragrance. It sits well under all subsequent skincare products and is a well formulated product with many beneficial ingredients.
Things I Liked:
- Contains vitamin C derivativities likely to oxidize than L-Ascorbic acid
- Effective and gentle for sensitive skin
- Affordable
- Packaging protects the formulation from light and air
- Travel friendly packaging
- Cruelty-free and vegan
Things I Disliked:
- Nothing
Disclaimer I was gifted this serum from Summer + Bloom, I was not paid for this review.
Sources:
- Summer + Bloom website www.summerandbloom.com
- The roles of vitamin C and skin health. Nutrients, 2017
- Therapeutic perspective of vitamin C and its derivatives. Antioxidants, 2019
- Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 2013
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005.
- Photoprotective effects of topical antioxidants in humans. Current problems in dermatology. 2001
- Dietary compound ellagic acid alleviates skin wrinkle and inflammation induced by UV-B irradiation. Experimental Dermatology, 2010
- Formulation and Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Topical Preparations. Systemic Reviews in Pharmacy, 2011
- Innovative Ingredients for the Personal Care Industry. DKSH
- The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products. Cosmetic Science and Technology, 2017
- Pullulan: an exopolysaccharide and its various applications. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2013
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018
- Continuous astaxanthin intake reduces oxidative stress and reverses age-related morphological changes of residual skin surface components in middle-aged volunteers. Nutrition Research, 2017
- Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Review. Nutrients, 2018
