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The Some by Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Day Miracle Toner is a low pH toner that can be used after cleansing to reduce and balance the skin’s pH level and gently exfoliate the skin. It contains 10,000 ppm of tea tree leaf extract to treat acne, a combination of four different chemical exfoliants to effectively exfoliate and hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, glycerine, and adenosine to moisturize, brighten and condition the skin.
Some By Mi Claims
The 30 day Miracle Toner is a low pH toner that claims to transform skin in just 30 days using all-natural ingredients. It removes dead skin cells, leaving smooth, radiant, and flawless skin. It also is effective at reducing blackheads and acne while still being gentle enough for sensitive skin. It has been dermatologically tested and is free of 20 harmful ingredients.
Appearance and Scent:
The toner is transparent and a non-sticky, watery consistency. It has a peppermint scent that is mild without being overpowering.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The toner is packaged in a 150 ml plastic bottle with a screw cap. There was a security seal on the box, and the expiry is three years from the date of manufacture.
How to Use:
To use as a toner – after cleansing, soak a cotton pad with the toner. Sweep all over the face in upwards motions until it penetrates the skin. Finish with usual serums and moisturizer.
To use as a mask – saturate cotton pads with the solution and place over problem areas, leaving on the skin.
To use as a toner wash – dilute the solution with water to an 8:2 ratio, and use it as a facial rinse after cleansing or as required throughout the day.
Formulation Science:
The product contains papaya extract a type of enzymatic exfoliant and three hydroxy acid chemical exfoliants; AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), BHA (beta hydroxy acid), and PHA (polyhydroxy acid). One of the most beneficial effects of hydroxy acids are the improvements to photoaged skin and include decreases in discolouration and pigmentation and an increase in the density of collagen and elastin fibres.
AHA’s exfoliate the surface layer of the skin by breaking down the glue that holds the dead skin cells together. BHA’s are fat-soluble and exfoliate within the cell to remove trapped impurities, and, PHA’s offer the benefit of AHA’s without causing irritation, meaning they are suitable for use on sensitive skin. They also help strengthen the skin barrier, provide antioxidant benefits, and moisturize the skin.
The toner is especially useful for acnegenic skin and contains 10,000 ppm of tea tree leaf extract, an antimicrobial and antifungal agent with antioxidant properties. One study showed that the use of topical tea tree oil was up to 5.8 times more effective at treating acne than a placebo.
This toner was tested by the Korea Institute of Dermatological Sciences on 20 adults with acne between the ages of 20 and 35. After 6 weeks, there was a 32.1 point reduction in the amount of sebum noticed by the subjects. They reported a 95% satisfaction rating in the soothing effects of the toner and a 95% satisfaction rating in the texture of their skin.
Ingredients:
​Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Swiftlet Nest Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Fructan, Allantoin, Adenosine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Xylitol, Salicylic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Raspberry Ketone, Phenoxyethanol, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil
Ingredient Analysis:
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that is an important precursor of many cofactors involved in the healthy functioning of the skin barrier function. It is effective at preventing moisture loss from the skin, minimizes large pores, and is an effective anti-aging ingredient.
Papaya extract utilizes the enzyme papain proteinase I, which is capable of breaking the extracellular matrix molecules that hold skin cells together. This process of enzyme exfoliation is very gentle and assists with the skins natural exfoliation process.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid. This results in superior moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis.
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
Adenosine is a nucleoside that makes up one of the four nucleotides molecules in DNA and RNA. Derivatives of adenosine are ubiquitous in nature and play essential roles in many biochemical processes. Yeast derived adenosine has recently been found to be an effective addition to skincare formulations for its potential anti-aging benefits.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is derived from the bark of the willow tree. They are used in skincare to gently dissolve the uppermost layer of the epidermis. This reveals the younger skin below and prevents a buildup of keratin and sebum from clogging pores, potentially leading to breakouts. They are soluble in oils like sebum and have the ability to penetrate deeper than AHA’s.
Tea Tree Oil is an essential on that is steam distilled from the native Australian plant Melaleuca alternifolia. it contains a component with strong anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties. it has been shown to accelerate wound healing and exhibit anti-skin cancer activity.
Lactobionic acid is a sugar acid referred to as a polyhydroxy acid (PHA). Polyhydroxy acids work in a similar way to AHA’s, but have a larger molecular size and are therefore unable to penetrate deeply into the skin, making them gentler and less irritating. They are also water binding and improve skin hydration levels.
Citric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from citrus fruit that renews and exfoliates the skin by breaking down the material that holds the top layer of dead skin cells together, unclogging pores. AHA’s are hydrophilic meaning they attract water and bind water within the skin.
Witch-Hazel Extract is an extract of the Hamamelis Virginiana plant that contains significant amounts of a phenolic compound (HAMA). It is commonly used in skincare as an astringent to balance and reduce sebum. It also acts as an antimicrobial and is effective against S. aureus bacteria that can cause acne. However, due to its tannin content, and the possible use of alcohol extraction methods, it can cause irritation for some people.
Peppermint oil, Mentha Piperita is an oil added to skincare for its fragrance properties. In undiluted quantities, it can cause a rash and skin irritation.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 5.8, just slightly higher than the level of 5.5 the product claims to be.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this toner is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). The pH is a skin-friendly 5.8 that helps to return the skin to its optimal acidity level after cleansing. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
BHA’s work best at a low pH, usually around 3.0-4.0. As this toner is slightly higher, there will still be exfoliating happening but it will be more gentle and controlled allowing for all skin types to benefit from this product.
Results:
I love this toner, it was gentle and plumped my skin making it visibly more hydrated. Although I don’t have acne, the few hormonal breakouts I did get while using this toner appeared to heal faster and the appearance of my blackheads did improve. The exfoliation I noticed from once daily use of this toner was sufficient for my sensitive skin.
Overall Impressions:
This toner was formulated and targeted towards acne-prone skin, I can’t say personally if this was an effective treatment, but the formulation and ingredients have scientific studies backing up their efficiency. The low pH will help the overall health of the skin long-term which will also be effective at preventing acne. Read about why the pH of the skin is important for preventing acne here.
Things I Liked:
- pH balanced at 5.5
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and preservatives
- Affordable
- A good amount of active ingredients
- Safe for sensitive skin
- Cruelty-free
Things I Disliked:
- Contains peppermint oil and which hazel which can be irritating
Sources:
- Clinical and cosmeceutical use of hydroxy acids. Clinics in Dermatology, 2009.
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2010.
- The efficiency of 5% topical tea tree oil in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: A randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 2007.
- Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin. International Journal of Dermatology, 2005.
- Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Journal of Dermatology, 2000.
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981.
- A review of the application of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 2013.
- In-vitro inhibition of Staphylococcal pathogenesis by witch-hazel and green tea extracts. Antibiotics, 2019.
- OliveYoung website.
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006.
