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The Skinfood Black Sugar Mask Wash Off is an exfoliating and hydrating mask that features black sugar granules that can be used either to physically exfoliate due to the grain texture, or chemically exfoliate due to sugars glycolic acid content. This hydrating mask leaves skin moisturized, nourished, and glowing.
Skinfood Claims:
An exfoliating and hydrating mask wash off with black sugar granules. Black sugar is rich in vitamins and minerals and restores nutrients and moisture to the skin. The mask leaves skin moisturized, soft, and free of dead skin cells.
Appearance:
A thick and grainy scrub with visible sugar crystals undissolved in a brown paste. The packaging is a 100 gram plastic tub with a protective cap to prevent the product from drying out.
How to use:
Depending on skin type, weekly or twice weekly use is recommended, after cleansing on damp skin. Create a workable paste with either warm water or micellar water. Gently scrub in circular motions, avoiding the eye area. Leave the mask on for 15 minutes then rinse the face with warm water and pat dry.
Ingredients:
Sucrose, Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Lanolin, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Caramel, Sorbitan Laurate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Fragrance.
Ingredient Analysis:
Sucrose, also known as table sugar, is a physical and chemical exfoliant that naturally contains glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that has a small molecular size which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin. It is a strong chemical exfoliant as the smaller the size of the AHA molecule, the deeper the absorption into the skin. Sucrose acts as a humectant (water-binder), that attracts and retains water within the skin.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is collected from the nuts of the macadamia tree, a native Australian plant. As the oil is highly stable, it is often used in cosmetics. Palmitoleic acid, fatty acid that is naturally found in human skin, especially younger skin, is present in high amounts in macadamia nuts. It has anti-inflammatory action and shows promise in stimulating immune cells and treating wounds.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, skin softening ingredient that is capable of retaining moisture and repairing the skin due to its high fatty acid content. It also has the ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients without leaving an oily residue on the skin. It is produced by mixing coconut oil or palm kernel oil with glycerin.
Lanolin is produced by the sebaceous gland of wool-bearing animals as a waterproofing agent, intended to protect the skin and provide environmental protection during harsh climatic conditions. It is a complex mixture of esters, lanolin alcohols, and lanolin acids. It has been used for hundreds of years for its wound healing and barrier-forming properties. It is composed of long-chain waxy esters. When used as a cosmetic ingredient, it is often separated into either a solid or an oil component. The resulting product is referred to as lanolin oil or lanolin wax. Lanolin is utilized in skincare as an occlusive, meaning it prevents water from evaporating from the dermis. One study found lanolin resulted in a 20-30% increase in moisture levels within the skin. Read more about lanolin in skincare here.
Unfortunately, there is also a small amount of fragrance and caramel pigment in the formula, which can cause irritation.
My thoughts:
The Skinfood Black Sugar mask is an effective mask for physical exfoliation with the sucrose crystals providing effective removal of dead skin cells. For those who find physical exfoliation too irritating, either warm water can be added to dissolve the sugar granules slightly, or can be used as a wash-off mask that allows for the chemical exfoliating action of the glycolic acid, yet still benefits from the absorption of the moisturizing and skin conditioning ingredients. I personally avoid physical exfoliating products and any skincare with added fragrance due to my sensitive and easily irritated skin. I instead keep this for areas of my body that need a little extra scrubbing such as elbows or feet. It makes my skin smooth and moisturized. My partner is also a huge fan of this mask, and his overall skin appearance has improved with twice-weekly usage.
I also appreciate that there are no plastic microbeads included in this product. The use of these plastics in the cosmetic industry has a huge environmental impact.
Physical exfoliation has the added advantage of not requiring the user to wear copious sunscreen as is required with the use of AHA or BHA exfoliants.
Things I liked:
- An effective physical and chemical exfoliant
- Leaves skin clean and smooth
- Contains skin-conditioning and hydrating ingredients
- Can control the amount of exfoliation
- Inexpensive
- Contains no plastic microbeads
Things I disliked:
- Can be too harsh on some skin types/conditions
- Contains added fragrance and pigments
Would I recommend this product?
Yes, I think this is an effective scrub that would be beneficial to anyone who does not have sensitive skin or a compromised skin barrier
Sources:
- Skinfood website ww.w.theskinfood.us
- Topical anti-inflammatory activity of palmitoleic acid improves wound healing. Public Library of Science(PLOS One), 2018.
- Lanolin and its derivatives. Journal of the American Oil and Chemistry Society, 1978.
- Moisturizers: The Slippery Road. Indian Journal Dermatology, 2016.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
