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The Purito Galacto Niacin 97 Power Essence is a lightweight essence with an impressive three fermented ingredients as well as brightening niacinamide and mistletoe leaf extract. The formula contains no preservatives or irritating ingredients and is a great way to incorporate probiotic ingredients into your skincare routine.
Purito Claim:
Contains 92% of Galactomyces Fermented Filtrate, which makes rough skin soft, clean, and clear. Niacinamide 5% brightens the skin improving its texture and elasticity. The Bifida Ferment Lysate strengthens the skin barrier, making the skin healthy and elastic. Its watery and light texture gently glides and penetrates deep into the skin, leaving the skin hydrated. It is absorbed instantly into the skin due to its lightweight texture.
Appearance and Scent:
The essence is a transparent liquid with a viscosity slightly thicker than water. It has no added fragrances and no discernable scent.
Packaging, Size, and Expiry:
The essence comes in a 60 ml plastic pump bottle. The expiry is three years after the date of manufacture, although once opened, Purito recommends keeping it refrigerated, and using it as soon as possible as the formula contains no preservatives.
Price and Number of Uses:
I purchased mine from Beatuytap for NZD $33 or USD $22. The product lasted me around four months with daily use.
How to Use:
As an essence, the product would be used after cleansing and toning, before moisturizing or using heavier serums. The product can also be used in the place of a toner and can be applied to the skin, allowed to absorb, then reapplied, this can be repeated several times, and allows for maximum benefits from the product.
Formulation Science:
The formula contains three bacterial ferment lysates. Fermented products are produced when bacteria are grown on a nutrient-rich substrate. The bacteria in the resulting broth are then destroyed, so that cell contents and parts of the cell walls and cytoplasm are kept in the solution. This is referred to as a lysate and serves as a nutritional source for the resident, helpful bacteria that naturally colonize healthy skin. This helps reduce inflammation within the skin in the same way that has been shown by taking oral probiotic strains. Clinical studies have already reported that topical probiotics are capable of exerting skin health effects such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burns, and scars, rejuvenating the skin, and improving the skin’s innate immunity.
Beneficial ingredients for the skin that are abundant in bacterial lysates include hyaluronic acid, sphingomyelinase (an enzyme essential for ceramide production), lipoteichoic acid, and peptidoglycan, which stimulate the innate immune system and increase the production of antimicrobial peptides. Acetic acid, an antibacterial substance, and diacetyl, an antimicrobial agent that is effective against gram-negative pathogenic bacterial strains like Pseudomonas and E. coli.
This essence was tested by the Korea Institute of Dermatological Sciences and found to be non-irritating.
Ingredients:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (92%), Niacinamide (5%), 1,2-Hexanediol, Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Allantoin, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA
Ingredient Analysis:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is the by-product of sake fermentation. It was discovered accidentally by the skincare industry after it was observed that workers involved in the sake fermentation process had hands that were smooth, soft, and free of wrinkles. During fermentation, Galactomyces yeast breaks down their food source into smaller molecules, such as amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and minerals, which are then more bioavailable for the skin to absorb. There are a few studies to back up the effectiveness of using Galactomyceies topically in its ability to strengthen the skins moisture barrier, reduce hyperpigmentation, act as an antioxidant, reduce pore size, sebum, blackheads and prevent acne.
This study of 20 volunteers used an essence containing 97% Galacotmyces ferment filtrate. The results showed a 15.7% reduction in pore size, a 21.8% reduction in the number of blackheads, and a 64.2% reduction in the amount of sebum. Skin brightness increased by 2.5% and acne decreased by 9.6%.
This study showed that Galacotmyces ferment filtrate had been demonstrated to provide and reduction in the appearance of skin pigmentation and reduce oxidative stress. Human melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes from donors of all skin colours were treated with 5% and 10% Galacotmyces ferment filtrate every second day and evaluated for melanin content in melanoma cells. Melanin was reduced by 60% in 12 days, and reduced by 35% in light skin and 55% in dark skin within 25 days.
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that is an important precursor of many cofactors involved in the healthy functioning of the skin barrier function. It is effective at preventing moisture loss from the skin, minimizes large pores, and is an effective anti-aging ingredient. It is thought that niacinamide can improve skin texture by increasing the epidermal turnover rate and thereby acting as a mild exfoliant.
Niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin by upregulating the synthesis of ceramides and intercellular lipids and by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation. This study shows an improvement in a trial with 2% niacinamide was able to increase ceramide synthesis by 2.3 fold, cholesterol synthesis by 1.5 fold, and increased free fatty acid levels in the stratum corneum and decreased transepidermal water loss.
This study of 50 females with photodamaged skin using 5% niacinamide twice daily for three months showed an improvement in hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, red blotchiness, skin shallowness, and increased skin elasticity.
Viscum album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract has been used for many years as a medicinal herb. The name is Celtic in origin and translates to “all-heal” due to its use in treating a wide range of illnesses. The mistletoe plant is considered a hemiparasite and possesses sophisticated systems to obtain nutrients and water from host plants. The extract has anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and anti-cancer properties. The use of mistletoe extracts for the brightening of skin is considered promising due to their tyrosinase-inhibiting properties, which means it may have the ability to suppress melanin production in the dermis, thereby having an anti-pigmentation action.
Bifida Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium bacteria. It is one of a few strains of lactic acid bacteria that can beneficially influence the metabolic activity and composition of the resident flora of the skin, and inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacterial strains. Because probiotic bacteria can modulate the immune system, they can downregulate immune disorders such as allergies.
This study showed the application of a 10% Bifidobacterium longum extract helped improve the skins natural barrier function and decreased skin sensitivity in people with reactive skin.
Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic ingredient that is produced when the cell membrane of the gram-positive bacterium Lactococcus lactic is broken or lysed. This releases the contents of the cell, which then can be used by resident skin flora (the good bacteria that live on the skin and keep it healthy) for growth. It has been shown to improve the skin barrier function.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
Adenosine is a nucleoside that makes up one of the four nucleotides molecules in DNA and RNA. Derivatives of adenosine are ubiquitous in nature and play essential roles in many biochemical processes. Yeast derived adenosine has recently been found to be an effective addition to skincare formulations for its potential anti-aging benefits. This study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science evaluated adenosine-containing products for their ability to prevent skin wrinkling. After eight weeks, adenosine-containing products showed significant improvements in skin smoothness and decreased appearance of crow’s feet. Adenosine-containing cream also significantly improved the wrinkles between eyebrows, also known as glabellar lines.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is the salt derived from licorice root extract. It is extracted from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant known to possess many medicinal properties. It is one of the oldest herbal remedies with a rich history of medical medicine. Its ongoing use is evolving so much so it has been referred to as “the plant of the future”. The root contains over 300 compounds that have been shown to be anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-ulcer anti-oxidant agents. The extract improves hyperpigmentation by dispersing melanin within the skin, inhibiting melanin biosynthesis and decreasing free radical production. The main component is the polyphenolic flavonoid Glabridin. Studies have shown that glabridin prevents UVB induced pigmentation and exerts anti-inflammatory effects. It has also been in the treatment of dermatitis, eczema and acne.
This double-blind clinical study compared 30 patients using a 2% topical licorice gel preparation and 30 patients using a placebo over a two-week period. The results showed the licorice extract could be considered an effective agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 6.6
pH Analysis:
The pH of this essence is outside the pH of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. As the pH of healthy facial skin is on average 4.7, this product is too alkaline to provide any benefit to the skin and may even be harmful. The slightly alkaline pH could affect the health of the skin long-term, which could potentially have the effect of damaging the skins moisture barrier and causing breakouts or dermatitis with extended use.
Results:
I love the idea of this essence, and its impressive list of active ingredients, with scientifically backed up results. It is easily absorbed and fits into a skincare routine easily. However, it didn’t give any noticeable brightening effects on my skin, and I didn’t notice any overall improvements while I was using this product. I suspect this was due to the counterproductive pH level that is in opposition to the skin barrier improving effects the ingredients are claimed to improve.
Overall Impressions:
This is a really impressive essence from an ingredient and formulation point of view. Unfortunately, the pH of the product is not ideal for the type of long-term skin improvements the ingredients should be capable of. Read about why the pH of the skin is important for preventing acne here. While I won’t repurchase, I do love Purito’s formulations and simple ingredients lists, free of preservatives, and unnecessary additives.
Things I Liked:
- An impressive list of active ingredients in high concentrations
- Free of perfumes, alcohol, and preservatives
- Affordable
- Safe for sensitive skin
- Cruelty-free and vegan
Things I Disliked:
- pH is too alkaline and may disrupt the skin moisture barrier
- Potentially short shelf-life due to no added preservatives
Sources:
- PURITO Website
- Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome, you never walk alone. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.
- Topical use of probiotics: The natural balance. Porto Biomedical Journal, 2017.
- Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. The Journal of Dermatology, 2000.
- Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in again facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2004.
- Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 2005.
- How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2010.
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- Parasitic Mistletoes of the Genera Scurrula and Viscum: From Bench to Bedside. Molecules, 2016
- Mistletoe extracts for use in skin cosmetics. Patent Application, 1999.
- Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanine pigmentation by 2-hydroxytyrosol. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica B, 2014.
- The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2003.
- Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 2013.
- Glycyrrhiza glabra – A plant for the future. Mintage Journal of Pharmaceutical and Medical Sciences, 2013.
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981.
- Are skincare products with probiotics worth the hype? Dermatology times, 2016.
- Bioactive from probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
- Galactomyces ferment filtrate reduces melanin synthesis and oxidative stress in normal human melanocytes. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2014.
- The Effects of Essence-Formed Cosmetic Ingredients Containing the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate on Skin Improvements in Keratinization, Pores, Sebum Excretion, Brightness and Acne. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, 2014.
