Introducing my personalized skincare consultation service. Please fill out the form below to begin your journey to flawless skin.
[wpforms id="3267" title="false"]
The NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex is an incredibly unique product in that it not only contains 15 different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, each able to penetrate to different layers of the skin, but is also able to assist the skin in its own production of hyaluronic acid, a crucial component of the skins natural moisturization factor, and a process that naturally declines as skin ages. The use of this serum goes beyond simply adding moisture to the skin temporarily and actually helps the skin behave like healthier, younger skin.
NIOD Claims:
The formula offers a multi-dimensional approach to topical hyaluronic supplementation by combining 15 forms of hyaluronic compounds, hyaluronic precursors and a hyaluronic support technology in a peptide-charged delivery system. It offers water-based hydration and helps the skin surface look plump, elastic, comfortable and uniform.
The formula also contains a hyaluronic support system of adaptogenic water-starved clary sage flavonoids, phenylethanoid glycosides from narrow leaf plantain and several dermal amino acids. This complex system acts as a non-clogging, water-protective barrier to optimize the function of hyaluronic compounds and help support dermal water retention.
NIOD Brand Overview:
NIOD is the luxury, scientifically-based skincare line owned by Decem, the umbrella company that owns The Ordinary and Hylamide. NIOD stands for non-invasive options in Dermal Science. The products are formulated with the most advanced technology and best quality ingredients available. Everything added to the formulation has a purpose. Their tagline is “skincare for the hyper-educated.” The NIOD line was a passion project for the cofounder Brandon Truaxe and focuses on overall skin condition and long-term improvements to the health of the skin.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The dark glass bottle with eye drop applicator is housed in the iconic NIOD box with a security seal. The bottle comes in either 15 ml or 30 mls and expires six months after opening.
Appearance and Scent:
The light-weight serum has a thin and water-like consistency that melts instantly into the skin. It is the most elegant hyaluronic serum I have tried, and a much silkier feel than The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (you can read my review of that serum here). It is a very light pale yellow colour and the fragrance-free formula has no discernable scent. Over time the colour can slightly increase to a darker yellow and start to precipitate (form solids), but this does not affect the ability of the product to absorb into the skin.
Price and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $58 or USD $41 for 15ml, or NZD $98 or USD $69 for 30ml. I have found the 15ml product lasts about three months with twice-daily use.
How to Use:
Apply the serum after cleansing before the application of other skin products. Drop a small amount onto fingers and apply to the entire face and neck twice daily. As it is so thin and watery, a few drops can be put into a small amount toner and then applied to the face. It is best to apply hyaluronic acid-containing products to a damp face.
Formulation Science:
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in nearly every cell of the body. It has a skin-supporting function in the dermis, helps to maintain epidermal barrier function, immobilizes water in tissues, influences cell proliferation and differentiation, and plays an essential role in wound healing and inflammatory responses. The skin utilizes almost 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid reserves. The molecule has a negative charge allowing it to bind with water and form a viscous gel. As a result, it is used for dermal fillers and as a topical skin moisturizing ingredient.
The extraction of hyaluronic acid is either from animal tissues or via large-scale bacterial fermentation using genetically modified bacterial stains. Extracted initially from cow eyes, then more recently roosters combs. The most ethical way to produce hyaluronic acid is by genetically modifying strains of bacteria like E. coli, Bacillus, and Lactococcus species. Deciem uses the process of bacterial fermentation to source its hyaluronic acid, making it vegan and cruelty-free.
Deciem also has stated they believe that while hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin, its primary function within the skin is not hydration. As the hyaluronic acid molecule is too large to penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, and instead sits on the skin surface, drawing moisture out of the skin. This makes the surface feel soft and hydrated temporarily but does not contribute towards the hydration of the dermis. Deciem’s skincare formulations have addressed this issue by adding 15 different sources of hyaluronic acid, with varying molecular weights, as well as a hyaluronic acid crosspolymer. This allows the hyaluronic acid molecules to be absorbed into the lower lays of the skin, and provide hydration and visible plumping, without drawing water out of the skin.
This article published in The Polish Journal of Cosmetology found a significant improvement and wrinkle reduction was observed after applying low molecular weight hyaluronic acid due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. However, it was also noted that high molecular weight hyaluronic acid could also be beneficial by forming a film on the surface of the skin protecting the stratum corneum. This layer prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and moisturizes the outer layer of the skin.
Ingredients:
Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Butyroyl HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Sodium PCA, Betaine, Sodium Lactate, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Algae Extract, Sodium Salicylate, Lecithin, Polyglucuronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Citric Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Silica, Polysorbate 20, Ethoxydiglycol, Propyl Gallate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol.
Ingredient Analysis:
Hydrolyzed yeast extract is the hydrolysate (a substance broken down via a reaction with water), of a yeast extract. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent, protecting and moisturizing agent. According to Croda, the company that manufactures the ingredient under the brand name Glycokine Factor S. When combined with polyglucuronic acid (as in this formulation), it acts as keratinocyte (a cell that produces keratin) and stimulates hyaluronic acid and elastin synthesis within the skin. It is used for its antiaging and moisturizing properties.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides is considered to be a marine-derived alternative to hyaluronic acid. According to the manufacturer Lipotec, the ingredient Hyadisine, is a marine exopolysaccharide (a polymer secreted by microorganisms), that offers immediate and long-lasting moisturization and improves the appearance of wrinkles in the same way hyaluronic acid does.
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract comes from the Snow Mushroom. Mushrooms are valued for their bioactive compounds as they are an excellent source of phenolic, polyphenols, terpenoids, selenium, polysaccharides, and vitamins. They are increasingly being used for cosmetic ingredients and have antioxidant, antiaging, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing properties. A polysaccharide extracted from the Tremella mushroom is capable of inhibiting melanin formation and has excellent moisturizing ability, especially when used in combination with hyaluronic acid.
Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 is a peptide that conditions the skin and mimics the effect of retinoic acid (vitamin A) on the skin, by increasing cell turnover, and collagen synthesis without the side effects typically experienced when applying vitamin A.
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, also known as Ribwort plantain, is an important medicinal plant due to its phenolic compounds, flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, Vitamin c, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used in skincare formulations for its astringent, emollient and soothing properties.
Amino Acids are the building blocks of protein molecules. There are 12 amino acids present in the formulation (as highlighted in blue). Amino acids are widely used as skincare additives that function as skin-conditioning agents. Amino acids are involved in various biochemical pathways for the formation of collagen or the prevention of collagen breakdown within the skin.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
Sodium lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, a component of the natural moisturisation factor (NMF) and plays a role in maintaining the hydration of the skin. It is produced by the fermentation of sugar and plays a role in maintaining the hydration of the skin.
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, (EGCG), is the polyphenol antioxidant present in green tea (Camellia sinensis). In the outermost layer of skin (the stratum corneum), tea extracts provide strong antioxidant activity by strengthening blood vessels and increasing microcirculation. In the deeper skin layers, tea polyphenols offer significant UV light protection by absorbing UVB radiation and acting directly on various enzymes. These effects can delay skin ageing by downregulating enzymes responsible for degrading hyaluronic acid, lipids, collagen, and elastin. Tea polyphenols and catechins (EGCG being the most bioactive), also display antioxidant activity due to their free radical scavenging ability, decelerating the inflammatory process.
Algae Extract enhances the skins ability to retain water and improves the skin moisture barrier. The skincare manufacturer Lesielle claims it also acts as an anti-oxidant that may increase circulation. In addition to protecting the skin, it is also used as a gel-forming agent to thicken skincare formulations. There is very little information on this ingredient. However, this article published in the Journal of cosmetic dermatology carried out an evaluation of the activity of skincare ingredients from marine and maritime origins and found that they could help preserve a healthy dermis and epidermis and possibly prevent the visible signs of aging.
pH Testing:
I got a result of pH 4. The NIOD website says the pH will be between 4.0 and 5.0.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this product within the pH of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7), and is, therefore, able to contribute towards improved skin health. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Results:
As NIOD treatments are about improving skin health long-term, the products can take some time to show effectiveness. However, I notice immediate plumping and fine line reducing improvements in hydration, and overall skin condition immediately after using this product. It absorbs instantly and never feels sticky on the skin or has ever caused any breakouts. It absorbs instantly and leaves skin feeling comfortable and hydrated. Other products used afterwards layer perfectly and it mixes with all toners or essences I have tried.
I always use this serum after first generously applying a hydrating toner. My favourite is the Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner (you can read my review here), as this allows the hyaluronic acid extra moisture to absorb, plumping up the skin. I then follow with other serums (there are no compatibility issues with any of the ingredients in this serum), or just apply my moisturizer and sunscreen (during the day).
Overall Impressions:
I have been using this product for the last six months and in that time I have almost finished my second 15ml bottle. I always opt for the smaller size packaging to ensure the ingredients don’t degrade over time and lose any effectiveness, especially in this case where the packaging does not protect the formula from the air. I will continue to repurchase as It is making a visible difference to my skin, and I feel long-term this is a fantastic product to have in my routine.
Things I Liked:
- pH balanced at 4
- Fast absorption and layers well with other products
- Free of perfumes and alcohol
- Effective and noticeable results
- A good amount of active ingredients
- Comes in two different size options
- Packaging protects the product from exposure to light
- No unnecessary ingredients
- Cruelty-free and vegan friendly
Things I Disliked:
- Expensive
- Hard to dispense and the glass bottle is not travel friendly
- The packaging does not protect the product from the air
Sources:
- NIOD Website
- Comparison of the moisture retention capacity of Tremella Polyphenols and hyaluronic acid. Science, 2012.
- Mushroom cosmetics: The present and future. Cosmetics, 2016.
- Applications of tea (Camellia sinensis) and it’s active constituents in cosmetics. Molecules, 2019.
- Skin Protective Effect of Epigallocatechin Gallate. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2018.
- 12% Lactate Lotion for the Treatment of Xerosis: A Double-blind Clinical Evaluation. Archives of Dermatology, 1983.
- Plantago plant; Traditional Medicine. NISCAR-CSIR, 2014.
- Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013.
- Lipotech Active Ingredients www.lipotech.com/en
- Croda Personal Care www.crodapersonalcare.com
- Spec Chem Industry Inc. spechemind.com
- Lesielle Adaptive Skincare www.lesielle.com
- Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review. 3 Biotceh, 2016.
- Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013.
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015.
