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The Jeuneora Brightening Booster serum contains 20% ascorbyl glucoside, a more stable derivative of Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and Kakadu Plum extract, the richest natural source of Vitamin C. It also contains hyaluronic acid for hydration and a lipid complex to moisturize the skin. The serum is non-sticky and leaves the skin with a visible glow. It is gentle enough for daily use, yet effective at brightening and hydrating the skin, and able to replace several other skincare steps.
Jeuneora Claims:
This double-action Vitamin C booster serum is here to save your skin from dullness and dark spots, and protect against free radicals and environmental pollution.
Brightening Booster is an antioxidant-rich serum that combines two high-potency forms of our favourite brightening ingredient: 20% Stabilised Vitamin C Solution and Kakadu Plum Fruit Extract – the world’s richest source of Vitamin C. These forms of Vitamin C work together to brighten skin, visibly reduce the appearance of dark spots, support collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and protect your skin against environmental damage. TLDR? Brighter, more radiant skin awaits!
Brightening Booster also includes Hydrolysed Hyaluronic Acid and a Botanically-sourced Lipid Complex to keep your skin feeling plump, hydrated, calm and happy.
Appearance and Scent:
The constancy is similar to that of a gel, which makes it easily absorbed into the skin. It feels very lightweight and absorbs without any residual stickiness. The fragrance is a citrus scent that is strong and could be overpowering if sensitive to fragrance.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The serum comes in a twist-open plastic container. It looks and feels elegant and the ability to twist to close the plunger makes it versatile for travelling. It also protects the formula from light and air, both of which are known to rapidly decrease the shelf life of Vitamin C containing products. The bottle contains 15 ml, which is on the smaller side for a serum, but I prefer buying smaller quantities more often when it comes to Vitamin C due to how prone to oxidation Vitamin C is.
Never keep skincare (and especially Vitamin C) in the bathroom as the heat and humidity will decrease the shelf life dramatically.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The Jeuneora Brightening Booster retails for NZD $55.00. This serum lasted me six weeks with once-daily use.
How to Use:
After cleansing and toning, dispense 1-2 drops of the serum and gently pat into the skin until fully absorbed. Follow with the rest of your skincare routine and always use sunscreen during the day. Use in the morning to provide additional UV protection. Avoid using products that contain hydroxy acids or retinol at the same time as Vitamin C containing products.
It is advised to wait at least 10 minutes after applying Vitamin C containing products before applying any subsequent skincare. This is because the effectiveness of any Vitamin C containing the formula is dependent on having the correct pH for the skin to absorb and utilize the vitamin. While this serum contains ascorbyl glucoside, a more pH stable Ascorbic acid derivative, this step may not be as important, but I still like to apply any Vitamin C serums this way to get the maximum benefit.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Jeuneora Brightening Booster (wait 10 minutes) -> Serum (optional) -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Vitamin C can be used at night, but antioxidant protection is best utilized during the day when the skin is most exposed to free radicals.
Formulation Science:
Healthy skin naturally contains a large amount of vitamin c when compared to other body tissues, and skin has a higher concentration than that of blood plasma, suggesting it actively accumulates in the skin after transportation to the cells from blood cells. Several studies have shown that vitamin C levels are lower in aged individuals or those with photodamaged skin. If the plasma concentration of vitamin C is low, it can be applied topically to the epidermal layer of the skin, however, the effectiveness of this depends largely on the formulation of the vitamin C containing product. As vitamin C is water-soluble and is a charged molecule, it is repelled by the physical barrier of epidermal cells. Only when the pH level is below 4, and if the vitamin C is present as ascorbic acid then some penetration into the epidermis can occur. Although newer derivatives of L-Ascorbic acid, like Ascorgyl glucoside, may allow for some relaxing of these requirements, although not as much research has been done on Vitamin C derivatives.
Ingredients:
Water/Aqua, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polysorbate 80, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance/Parfum, Yellow 6 (CI 15895), Citral, Limonene, Linalool.
Ingredient Analysis:
Ascorbyl glucoside is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that has been combined with a glucose molecule. Once absorbed by the skin, it is broken down into L-ascorbic acid (the most potent form of Vitamin C). As it eventually becomes ascorbic acid, it still gives most of the same benefits like anti-oxidant protection from UV exposure and brightening and increasing collagen production. Still, it is much less likely to cause irritation. It is also much more stable and less prone to oxidation than L-ascorbic acid. The most significant benefit of ascorbyl glucoside is that it can be used over a much broader pH range than other Vitamin C derivatives (like L-ascorbic acid that requires a pH of 2.5-.35 to be most effective. Instead, it is able to be used in formulas with pH ranges of 5-8 (although no skincare should be as high as pH 8). The only downside is that clinical studies are lacking and the rate of conversion from ascorbyl glucoside within the skin to L-ascorbic acid is still not known.
Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract is a fruit native to Australia and has a rich history of use by Aboriginal cultures for its medicinal and health benefits. It is considered to be the best and richest source of Vitamin C, up to 50 times that of oranges, and is also high in Vitamin E and ellagic acid. It has been shown to have antiaging, skin brightening and collagen-producing qualities when used topically.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Hydrolized Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Tocopherol. This patented complex is known as L22, a combination of lipids that was formulated to mimic the oil ratio naturally produced by young skin. The manufacturer, Floratech claim L22 is able to improve the recovery of skin barrier function, increase elasticity, firmness and hydration.
Pullulan is a polysaccharide produced from the fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans that is gaining popularity in the pharmaceutical industry due to its unique characteristics, including that it is water-soluble, unlike most polysaccharides. This allows it to bind water once absorbed into the skin. According to the manufacturer, DKSH, it provides an instant lifting and effect to the skin that may help strengthen the skin’s microbiome.
Fragrance, also commonly listed as perfume or parfum, is a mix of odorant ingredients. If fragrance is listed in the ingredients, it has been added to change the smell of the product and imparts no skincare benefits. The way most fragrance ingredients release scent is through a volatile chemical reaction, that can be incredibly sensitizing to the skin. This is true of both natural and synthetic fragrances. To read more about skincare ingredients to avoid read my post here.
pH Testing:
I got a pH result of 4.5.
pH Analysis:
This product was formulated with a pH slightly higher than the optimal of Vitamin C containing products, (Below pH 4 has been shown to be most effective for Vitamin C containing skincare). However, the pH of this serum is within the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7), and within the manufactures pH guidelines for formulating with ascorbyl glucoside. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
My Experience:
Since I have been using the serum, I have noticed a slight decrease in some of my pigmentation, and my overall skin texture and brightness have improved. I have seen a reduction in post-inflammatory erythema (the redness that can occur after a blemish), and my skin has a nice even tone and glow. I had previously been using the NIOD Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network, and while I would have potentially seen greater results with the higher concentration of vitamin C, I was also careful not to overuse it as it can cause my skin to react. This formula just feels more gentle and user-friendly for daily use. The only downside for me is the strong fragrance. I prefer not to use skincare that has artificial fragrances added, and I found this serum to be slightly overpowering while waiting for the scent to dissipate.
Overall Impressions:
This serum feels comfortable and light on the skin. It applies without a sticky residue and sinks completely into the skin. The combination of the Vitamin C rich Kakadu Plum Fruit extract, and a stable form of Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection that is capable of protecting the skin from the effects of UV radiation. The added ingredients like hyaluronic acid and a plant-derived lipid complex help protect the skin from dehydration and dryness. As I am prone to both of these, this serum was really effective for me and I found it was able to replace several steps in my routine with just this one serum. The concentration of Vitamin C is not so high that it is likely to cause irritation on sensitive skin, yet it is in a quantity that is likely to be effective at brightening and evening skin tone over time. Overall this serum is fantastic for everyone, whether they are new to vitamin c or an experienced user. I also appreciate that this formula contains a more stable vitamin C derivative and is in air and light-proof packaging.
Things I Liked:
- Less likely to oxidise than L-Ascorbic acid
- Effective and gentle for sensitive skin
- Affordable
- Packaging protects the formulation from light and air
- Travel friendly packaging
- Cruelty-free and vegan
Things I Disliked:
- The pH is slightly higher than optinal for a Vitmain C serum
- The 15mls of product did not last very long
- The formula contains fragrance and colourants
Disclaimer I was gifted this serum from Jeuneoa. I was not paid for this review.
Sources:
- Jeuneora website www.jeuneora.co.nz
- SkinCeuticals website www.skinceuticals.com
- The roles of vitamin C and skin health. Nutrients, 2017.
- Therapeutic perspective of vitamin C and its derivatives. Antioxidants, 2019.
- Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 2013.
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005.
- Photoprotective effects of topical antioxidants in humans. Current problems in dermatology. 2001
- Dietary compound ellagic acid alleviates skin wrinkle and inflammation induced by UV-B irradiation. Experimental Dermatology, 2010
- Formulation and Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Topical Preparations. Systemic Reviews in Pharmacy, 2011
- Innovative Ingrediens for the Personal Care Industry. DKSH
- The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products. Cosmetic Science and Technology, 2017
- Pullulan: an exopolysaccharide and its various applications. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2013
- Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
- Floratech website www.floratech.com and www.Lipids22.com
