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The Hylamide Low-Molecular HA is a hydrating serum that contains five different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid (HA), each able to penetrate to different depths within the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a skin-identical ingredient that helps the skin behave like healthier, younger skin. Additionally, it visibly plums fine lines and wrinkles and increases hydration. This serum also contains yeast extract and several other skin conditioning ingredients to increase moisture levels and boost the overall health of the skin.
Hylamide Claims:
This is a hyper-strength rehydration serum that has five forms of hyaluronic compounds with varying molecular weights. This serum is part of the Booster Series that contains concentrated treatments for specialized or seasonal supplementary care.
Hylamide Brand Overview:
Hylamide is the mid-priced skincare line owned by Decem. It sits in between the low-priced brand The Ordinary and its luxury skincare line, NIOD. All three brands focus on skincare and share ingredients and technologies. It is expected that Hylamide products will be a cost-effective medium between the two ends of the Deciem spectrum.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The serum comes in a frosted glass bottle with an eye drop applicator. It is the same bottle Deciem uses for The Ordinary products. Using the same packaging between brands gives the advantage of allowing the price point of the product to remain low. The bottle comes in 30 mls and expires 12 months after opening.
Appearance and Scent:
The serum is a transparent liquid that is the consistency of a viscous gel. It feels sticky on the skin and remains tacky after it has absorbed, but this does not affect subsequent skincare products. It looks and feels very similar to The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (you can read my review of that serum here). The fragrance-free formula has no discernable scent.
Cost and Number of Uses:
The cost is NZD $24 or USD $17. I have found the 30ml product lasts about two months with once-daily use.
How to Use:
Apply the serum after cleansing before the application of heavier or more viscous skincare products. Drop a small amount onto fingers and apply to the entire face and neck once or twice daily. It is best to apply hyaluronic acid-containing products to a damp face.
Formulation Science:
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in nearly every cell of the body. It has a skin-supporting function in the dermis, helps to maintain epidermal barrier function, immobilizes water in tissues, influences cell proliferation and differentiation, and plays an essential role in wound healing and inflammatory responses. The skin utilizes almost 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid reserves. The molecule has a negative charge allowing it to bind with water and form a viscous gel. As a result, it is used for dermal fillers and as a topical skin moisturizing ingredient.
The extraction of hyaluronic acid is either from animal tissues or via large-scale bacterial fermentation using genetically modified bacterial stains. Extracted initially from cow eyes, then more recently roosters combs. The most ethical way to produce hyaluronic acid is by genetically modifying strains of bacteria like E. coli, Bacillus, and Lactococcus species. Deciem uses the process of bacterial fermentation to source its hyaluronic acid, making it vegan and cruelty-free.
Deciem also has stated they believe that while hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin, its primary function within the skin is not hydration. As the hyaluronic acid molecule is too large to penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, and instead sits on the skin surface, drawing moisture out of the skin. This makes the surface feel soft and hydrated temporarily but does not contribute towards the hydration of the dermis. Deciem’s skincare formulations have addressed this issue by adding five different sources of hyaluronic acid, with varying molecular weights, as well as a hyaluronic acid crosspolymer. This allows the hyaluronic acid molecules to be absorbed into the lower lays of the skin, and provide hydration and visible plumping, without drawing water out of the skin.
This article published in The Polish Journal of Cosmetology found a significant improvement and wrinkle reduction was observed after applying low molecular weight hyaluronic acid due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. However, it was also noted that high molecular weight hyaluronic acid could also be beneficial by forming a film on the surface of the skin protecting the stratum corneum. This layer prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and moisturizes the outer layer of the skin.
Ingredients:
Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Lecithin, Glycerin, Betaine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyglucuronic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
Ingredient Analysis:
Hydrolyzed yeast extract is the hydrolysate (a substance that broken down via a reaction with water), of a yeast extract. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent, protecting and moisturizing agent. According to Croda, the company that manufactures the ingredient under the brand name Glycokine Factor S, when combined with polyglucuronic acid (as in this formulation), it acts as keratinocyte (a cell that produces keratin) and stimulates hyaluronic acid and elastin synthesis within the skin. It is used for its antiaging and moisturizing properties.
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum is a polysaccharide (complex carbohydrate) obtained from the seed of the tamarind tree (Tamaridnus indica). It is considered an alternative to hyaluronic acid due to both its physical and biological similarities. According to the manufacturer Givaudan, it is able to form a film over the surface of the skin increasing hydration. It acts as an antioxidant and smooths the skin while increasing elasticity.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Betaine is a naturally occurring amino acid called trimethylglycine. It is extracted from sugar beets (Beta vulgaris) and functions as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant and a viscosity increasing agent. It has also been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory and shows some benefits as an antiaging agent that can protect the skin from free radical damage.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract comes from the Snow Mushroom. Mushrooms are valued for their bioactive compounds as they are an excellent source of phenolic, polyphenols, terpenoids, selenium, polysaccharides, and vitamins. They are increasingly being used for cosmetic ingredients and have antioxidant, antiaging, antiwrinkle, and moisturizing properties. A polysaccharide extracted from the Tremella mushroom is capable of inhibiting melanin formation and has excellent moisturizing ability, especially when used in combination with hyaluronic acid.
Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract is a polysaccharide extracted from the alga Ahnfelia concinna (a type of algae) that lives in the Hawaiian Islands. It is a gel-forming (thickening) agent and skin protector. There is very little information on this ingredient, and limited scientific studies, but the manufacturer Lesielle claims, It enhances the skins ability to retain water and improves the skins moisture barrier. It contains vitamins and minerals and also acts as an antioxidant that delays premature aging of the skin.
This study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology carried out an evaluation of the activity of skincare ingredients from marine and maritime origins and found that they could help preserve a healthy dermis and epidermis and possibly prevent the visible signs of aging.
pH Testing:
I got a result of pH 7. The Hylamide website says the pH will be between 6.0 and 7.0.
pH Analysis:
Although hyaluronic acid is generally not pH-dependent, Hylamide expects the pH of this product to be between 6.0 and 7.0. As the pH of healthy facial skin lies between 4.5 to 5.5 with an average of 4.7. Therefore, this product is too alkaline to provide any benefit to the skin and may even be harmful. The neutral pH could affect the health of the skin long-term, which could potentially have the effect of damaging the skins moisture barrier and causing breakouts with continued use. This is the same issue I have with the Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid + B5 Serum (you can read my review here), and why even with the higher price point, I will always recommend using the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex serum, which was formulated at the correct pH for healthy skin (read my review here). Read more about why the pH of skincare products are so important here.
Results:
I do not notice any plumping or hydrating results when I use this serum, and I just don’t like the sticky texture. I always use any hyaluronic acid serum after first generously applying a low pH, toner. My favourite is the Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner (you can read my review here), as this allows the hyaluronic acid extra moisture to absorb, plumping up the skin. I then follow with other serums (there are no compatibility issues with any of the ingredients in this serum), or just apply my moisturizer and sunscreen (during the day).
Overall Impressions:
I had high hopes for this serum and thought it would be a good recommendation for anyone who wants to spend slightly less than what the NIOD Multi-Molecular Serum costs, but still wants a superior product with more than one form of hyaluronic acid with smaller molecular weights than The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid + B5 Serum. Unfortunately, this was not the case. The pH is too alkaline, the viscosity is unpleasant and it’s just not noticeably hydrating on my skin. The ingredients list is impressive and five different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid are far superior to almost all other HA serums on the market that only contain one molecular size. But I personally don’t think this is worth the money, and I would rather use the NIOD serum less frequently or forgo a hyaluronic acid product in my routine than use this product.
Things I Liked:
- Different molecular weiths of HA allow for better hydration
- Layers well with other products
- Free of perfumes and alcohol
- A good amount of active ingredients
- Cruelty-free and vegan friendly
Things I Disliked:
- pH is not within the healthy skin range
- No noticeable results
- Feels sticky on the skin
- The glass bottle is not travel friendly
- The packaging does not protect the product from the air
Sources:
- NIOD Website
- Givaudan Active Beauty. www.ginvaudan.com
- Green Polymers in Personal Care Products: Rheological Properties of Tamarind Seed Polysaccharide. Cosmetics, 2015.
- Comparison of the moisture retention capacity of Tremella Polyphenols and hyaluronic acid. Science, 2012.
- Mushroom cosmetics: The present and future. Cosmetics, 2016.
- Plantago plant; Traditional Medicine. NISCAR-CSIR, 2014.
- Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013.
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
- Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review. 3 Biotceh, 2016.
- Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2013.
