Dr.Jart+ Dermaclear Micro Water – Review

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The Dr. Jart Dermaclear Micro Water is an all-in-one cleansing water formulated with 85% active hydrogen mineral water and 90% natural ingredients to help remove impurities, makeup, and even mascara. It contains a derma toning complex for toning and brightening benefits, provides nutrients and hydrates the skin.

Dr.Jart+ Claim:

Power cleanser, no water needed. Hydrogen Bio Water™ gently removes makeup, dirt and excess oil to cleanse skin without water.

Multi-functional, versatile micro cleansing water, perfect for when time is tight or on-the-go. Our new Dermaclear micro water makeup remover is powered by Hydrogen Bio Water™, a proprietary innovation from Dr.Jart+ that draws out impurities to cleanse, moisturize and freshen skin.

An all-in-one cleansing water that tones, brightens, and removes makeup and impurities in one step.

Appearance and Scent:

The micellar solution is a lightweight liquid that is the consistency of water. This cleanser leaves a shiny and tacky layer on the skin and contains some unnecessary fragrance ingredients that may make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it’s suitable for nighttime use only unless it is cleansed off the skin. Personally, I wouldn’t say I like that shiny and sticky feel on the skin and hence I often rinse it off after use, regardless of the time of day. The scent is a earthy, citrus smell.

Packaging, Size, and Expiry:

The packaging is a transparent plastic bottle, with a flip cap lid. The bottle contains 250ml of product and comes with a 150 ml refill. The expiry is 12 months after opening or 36 months after the date of manufacture.

Cost and Number of Uses:

The cost is NZD $40.00 or USD $27.40. I have found only a small amount is required and estimate the 250ml product and 150ml refill would last about six months with daily use.

How to Use:

As a cleanser: To use micellar water, pour a suitable amount on a cotton pad and rub it over your face, like a toner. Then, just carry on with your skincare routine as normal.

As a makeup remover: If you’re wearing heavier makeup or sunscreen, we recommend using micellar water as a makeup remover as part of a double cleanse, then following up with a second gentle cleanser. For eye makeup, it’s necessary to press the cotton pad onto the eye area for a few seconds to help loosen the makeup before gently sweeping it away.

Formulation Science:

Micellar waters are cleansing waters that contain micelles (small spheres of cleansing oil molecules) that are suspended in a liquid. The oil-loving tail on the micelles is attracted to the oil-containing dirt and sebum and work by drawing out these impurities from the skin, while the oil-repelling water portion washes the dirt away. They are extremely popular in France where the water supply is notoriously hard (full of dissolved minerals), which make the water more alkaline and damaging to the skins delicate moisture barrier. These micellar waters were developed using soft (deionized water) that, with the addition of hydrating ingredients, helps to cleanse the skin without irritating or damaging the skin.

Micellar waters are an excellent solution for travelling, or when it is not practical to access water to cleanse the skin. Their drawback is that they are unable to remove waterproof mascara, so a separate eye makeup remover or oil cleanser is often required. They can be used as the first step of a double cleanser when heavy makeup or sunscreen is not present on the skin.

Ingredients:

Water/Eau, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Citrate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Sea Salt/Sel marin, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Water, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Butylene Glycol, Aminobutyric Acid, Milk Lipids/Lipides du lait, Glutathione.

Ingredient Analysis:

Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells.  This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil is an essential oil extracted from the leaves of Bergamot’s which functions as a perfuming agent to gives the formulation a pleasant scent, but can cause irritation and sensitivity in some people.

Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil is a naturally occurring AHA which helps with hyperpigmentation, anti-aging and provides mild exfoliation. It also has antibacterial and antifungal properties to fight against blemishes and acne.  Limonene, a fragrance ingredient that is also sensitizing to the skin is present in 38% – 96% of citrus oils. It is not recommended for daytime use as it is considered a mildly phototoxic ingredient.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is a fragrance ingredient that has a rose-like scent. It has the ability to balance the production of sebum and oil.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Water is considered an effective cleanser due to its hydrating properties.  It is a rich source of nutrients, including essential amino acids, B vitamins, and skin conditioning fatty acids palmitic and oleic acid.   This may help nourish and moisturize dry skin when applied topically.

Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil is an essential oil extracted from sage leaves, in skincare it is used as a fragrance ingredient.

Pogostemon Cablin Oil is also known as Patchouli, an essential oil which imparts a long-lasting woody scent to the formulation. It does have some skin benefiting benefits due to its antioxidant, antibacterial and antibacterial properties, but may cause sensitivities.  

Milk lipids are the oils found in milk.  They form a protective layer on the surface of the skin to trap moisture, keeping skin smooth, supple and plump.

pH Analysis:

I got a result of pH 5.0.

pH Analysis:

The pH of this product is within the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. This slightly acidic pH means it would not cause any additional irritation to the skin or disrupt the skin’s moisture barrier.

Results:

This is effective micellar water, that manages to pick up some residual residue after washing my face, even if I didn’t wear makeup that day. A little goes a long way on a cotton pad and the inclusion of a free refill makes it more economical and environmentally friendly. The problem that I have is after using it I notice irritation and a slight burning sensation. After the first few uses, I was not sure if it was because I was using too much or if my skin wasn’t used to it yet, but after several weeks of trying different techniques, I have had to stop using it altogether because it’s just too irritating, even when used as a makeup remover and I cleanse my skin afterwards.

While it did a good job of removing my eyeliner, there is visible redness in my cheeks and around the corner of my eye.

Overall Impressions:

This would be a good product if it didn’t contain so many irritating essential oils. Micellar waters are traditionally not intended to be rinsed off so in theory should contain gentle, nourishing ingredients that give skincare benefits. I am disappointed with this product and will not be repurchasing it.

What I Liked:

  • Inexpensive and lasts a long time
  • Formulated a the correct pH
  • Comes with a refill pouch

What I Disliked:

  • Irritating and not safe for sensitive skin
  • Contains unnecessary ingredients
  • Stings and causes redness
  • Not suitable for daytime use
  • Leaves a tacky finish on the skin

References: 

  • Dr Jart Website
  • Chemical Composition, Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, and Antiproliferative Properties of Grapefruit Essential Oil Prepared by Molecular Distillation. Molecules, 2020
  • The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel.  The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2003
  • Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?  Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 2013
  • Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2019
  • Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 2015
  • The chemical composition and biological properties of coconut (Cocos nucifera L.) water. Molecules, 2009

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