Introducing my personalized skincare consultation service. Please fill out the form below to begin your journey to flawless skin.
[wpforms id="3267" title="false"]
Cosrx One Step Clear Pads are a pre-soaked exfoliation pad formulated with over 80% willow bark water. They are well known for their ability to treat and prevent acne with the use of tea tree leaf oil and betaine salicylate, a more gentle and well-tolerated form of salicylic acid.
COSRX Claim:
The award-winning COSRX One Step Original Clear Pads are soaked in betaine salicylate and willow bark water to chemically exfoliate without drying out your skin. Active ingredients penetrate deeply into pores to dissolve oil and dead skin cells, which help in controlling breakouts.
Appearance and Scent:
The exfoliating solution is transparent and the consistency of water. It has a light fragrance of tea tree oil.
Cost and number of uses:
The pads have an RRP of NZ$26 (US$17.30). This makes the cost per application $0.37 (US$0.25). With daily use, you would get 10 weeks out of each tub. However, due to the amount of serum and the size of the pad, they can easily be cut in half.
Packaging, Size and Expiry:
The sturdy plastic tub houses 70 pre-soaked pads. There is a sufficient amount of product that they are saturated and stay moist until the last use. The pads are composed of embossed cotton on one side and smooth cotton on the other side. The tub has a protective seal to prevent the product from drying out.
How to Use:
Use after cleansing, gently sweep the embossed side all over the face in upwards motions until it penetrates the skin, avoiding the eye area. Then sweep the smooth side over the same areas to collect any remaining debris. Finish with usual serums and moisturizer.
To use as a mask – saturate cotton pads with the solution and place over problem areas, leaving on the skin for 5-7 minutes.
Formulation Science:
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s) are used in skincare to gently dissolve the uppermost layer of the epidermis. This reveals the younger skin below and prevents a buildup of keratin and sebum from clogging pores, potentially leading to breakouts. BHA’s are soluble in oils like sebum and have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’S). However, not everyone can tolerate traditional salicylic acid-containing products. Cosrx uses betaine salicylate, a fatty acid that naturally occurs in many fruits and nuts. Most commonly it is produced from sugar beet plants. It is antibacterial and can slow the DNA replication in acne-causing bacteria.
This study looking at the effects of 0.5% topical salicion (the main ingredient in willow bark) on the visible effects of aging, found a significantly significant improvement in wrinkles, roughness, pore size, radiance, and overall appearance of the skin after one week of use. After four weeks, a significant improvement in pigmentation, firmness, and jaw-line contour was noted. This study concluded that topically applied salicin was able to reduce the visible signs of aging.
The FDA will allow concentrations of salicylic acid-containing products between 0.5-2.0 percent active ingredient to be sold over the counter as an acne treatment. Any higher percentages and the product will require a prescription to purchase. The Ministry of Food and Durg Safety for the Republic of Korea has similar requirements, which is why many K-beauty skincare contains betaine salicylate instead of salicylic acid. Although no specific calculations have been verified, it is generally accepted in the skincare industry that salicylic acid is twice as strong as betaine salicylate. For example, 2% salicylic acid is the equivalent of a 4% betaine salicylate solution.
The product is especially useful for acnegenic skin and contains tea tree leaf extract, an antimicrobial and antifungal agent with antioxidant properties. This study showed that the use of topical tea tree oil was up to 5.8 times more effective at treating acne than a placebo.
Ingredients:
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine Salicylate*, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Arginine, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Ethyl Hexanediol, Sodium Hydroxide.
Ingredient Analysis:
Willow bark extract has been used for thousands of years as an anti-inflammatory (most people will know it as aspirin) due to its ability to downregulate inflammatory mediators. Salicin is the major active ingredient of willow bark. It is also useful when applied to the skin where it acts as a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), an oil-soluble acid that gently dissolves the uppermost layer of dead skin cells known as the epidermis. This reveals the younger skin below and prevents a buildup of keratin and sebum from clogging pores, potentially leading to breakouts.
Betaine Salicylate is an ester of salicylic acid. The betaine molecule is derived from sugarcane then attached to a salicylic acid molecule. The combination provides the exfoliating effects of the salicylic acid and the soothing and moisturizing effects of betaine.
Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.
Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism. In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn. When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates. It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin.
Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells. This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.
Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body. When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits. Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited. It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water, plumping the skin and facilitating the transport of water-soluble molecules within the lower layers of skin. The lower the molecular weight of the HA, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid. This results in superior moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. Hyaluronic acid has an essential function in maintaining the structure of the stratum corneum and promoting normal epidermal barrier function.
Tea Tree Oil is an essential oil that is steam distilled from the native Australian plant Melaleuca alternifolia. it contains a component with strong anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties. it has been shown to accelerate wound healing and exhibit anti-skin cancer activity.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil. Limonene is a component of the essential oil from the rind of oranges. Its strong orange fragrance is used in skincare, cosmetics, and perfumes. When exposed to air, it is readily oxidized to compounds that cause dermal sensitization and skin irritation. This study over a five-year period involving 6000 participants with dermatitis were patch tested with 26 different fragrance allergens. Of those, 940 had a reaction to fragrance with 30.0% of subjects reacting to the limonene component. Its addition to skincare is purely for fragrance purposes and serves no skin-benefiting function.
pH Testing:
I got a result of pH 6.2.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this toner is higher than the pH of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
Salicylic acid will exfoliate optimally within the pH range of 3.8-4.2. As this product is higher, there will still be exfoliating happening but it will be more gentle and controlled allowing for all skin types to benefit from this product.
Betaine salicylate, it does not require an acidic pH of 3-4 in order to stay in solution without forming a precipitate (basically becoming as solid as opposed to a liquid). This means it is gentler and well-tolerated than other BHA containing products and has been shown to be just as effective with long-term use. The pH of the liquid surrounding the pads was 6.2, which is more alkaline than the normal pH of the skin, at 4.7. Generally, a higher pH product (but still at or below the threshold of around pH 6), will cause less irritation.
This means anyone who wants to combine gently exfoliation into their routine with the intention of clearing breakouts, decreasing hyperpigmentation or building collagen could benefit from this product.
Results:
Although I don’t have acne, the few hormonal breakouts I did get while using this product appeared to heal faster and the appearance of my blackheads did improve. The daily use of the exfoliating solution did not irritate my sensitive skin but due to the high pH, I will not be repurchasing.
Overall Impressions:
These pads were formulated and targeted towards those wanting gentle exfoliation and treatment for acne-prone skin; I can’t say personally if this was an effective treatment. The slightly alkaline pH could affect the health of the skin long-term, which could potentially have a paradoxical effect of causing more breakouts long-term. Read about why the pH of the skin is essential for preventing acne here.
Things I Liked:
- Free of alcohol, and preservatives
- Affordable and contains a good amount of serum
- Study packaging suitable for traveling
- A good amount of active ingredients that have studies showing effectiveness at preventing and treating acne
- Cosrx is a cruelty-free brand
Things I Disliked:
- The pH is too high for both effective exfoliation and skin health
- Orange peel oil can be irritating and offers no skincare benefits
Sources:
- Cosrx website www.cosrx.com
- Clinical and cosmeceutical use of hydroxy acids. Clinics in Dermatology, 2009
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2010
- The efficiency of 5% topical tea tree oil in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: A randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 2007
- A review of the application of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 2013
- Efficiency and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extract: willow bark extract efficiency and safety. Phototherapy Research, 2015.
- An evaluation of the effects of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2010
- Paulas Choice Ingredient Directory – Betaine salicylate
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. CFR – Code of Federal Regulations Title 21
- Non‐mix fragrances are top sensitizers in consecutive dermatitis patients – a cross‐sectional study of the 26 EU ‐labelled fragrance allergens. Contact Dermatitis, 2017
- Essential oils and their single compounds in cosmetics – A critical review. Cosmetics, 2018
- Bioactives from probiotics for dermal health: functions and benefits. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2012
- Anti-aging effects of L-arginine. Journal of Advanced Research, 2010
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of cosmetic science, 2011
- Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer. International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2016
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981
