Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask – Review

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The Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask is an occlusive, hydrating sleeping mask that can be used as a moisturizer, an overnight mask, or as a wash-off mask.   This hydrating formula boasts an impressive list of gentle ingredients and leaves skin moisturized, nourished, and glowing.

COSRX Claims:

Enriched with more than 87% Propolis Extract and natural beeswax, this mask provides intensive hydration with refreshing moisture.

Appearance and scent:

A lightweight, translucent, easy-to-spread gel that is golden in acolour that dries down quickly, but can leave a slightly shiny and tacky residue if used in large amounts. The fragrance-free formula has a light floral scent.

Packaging, Size, and Expiry:

The product comes in a plastic squeeze tube. The packaging is simple, spill-free, hygienic, and easy to use. The tube contains either 60 ml of product and expires 12 months after opening and three years from the date of manufacture.

Cost:

The Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Mask retails for NZD $26.00 or US $18.00. Only a small amount is required, so the tube lasts a long time is good value for money.

How to use:

Use a thin layer as the final step of your skincare routine in the evening.  This mask can also be used as a moisturizing wash-off mask.  A minimal amount can be used in place of moisturizer during the day.

Ingredients:

Propolis Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Arginine, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Beeswax, Allantoin, Panthenol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Adenosine, Honey

Ingredient Analysis:

Propolis is also referred to as “bee glue” a wax-like substance that honeybees produce after collecting resin from flowers and mixing with salivary enzymes.  They then use this product for protecting and repairing their hive.  Humans have been finding uses for this substance since 300 BC, for everything from treating wounds and tumours to mummifying ancient Egyptians.  In modern times, we now know that propolis is effective for these purposes due to its wide assortment of biological actives and chemical compounds. This results in an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory activity that skincare manufactures have been incorporating into their formulas due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, and antifungal properties.   It is high in phenolic compounds, esters, flavonoids, terpenes, beta-steroids Vitamins B1, B2, B6, C, and E.   It also contains magnesium, calcium, potassium, sodium, copper, zinc, manganese and iron. 

This clinical study was performed on 40 patients with acne vulgaris. Half were treated with a topical propolis solution. The treatment group showed a highly significant clinical efficiency in treating acne vulgaris and the researchers concluded propolis can be considered an effective, safe alternative medicine for the treatment of acne.

Glycerin is a humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells.  This means having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who have psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

Betaine is a naturally occurring amino acid called trimethylglycine.  It is extracted from sugar beets and functions as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant and viscosity increasing agent.

Arginine is considered to be one of the most metabolically versatile amino acids and is involved in several metabolic pathways within the human body.  When taken orally, it has demonstrated several antiaging benefits.  Studies on the topical use of arginine are limited.  It is incorporated into skincare for its antioxidant properties, because it is an essential building block of collagen and because it is a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor NMF) of the skin.  NMF’s are efficient humectants, attracting moisture and playing an essential role in maintaining the stratum corneum’s physical properties, allowing the skin to function optimally.

Cassia Obtusifolia extract is a plant seed extract high in polysaccharides that act as skin conditioning agents.   The extract is anti-inflammatory and assists in the healing of acne and is capable of mimicking the water plumping the effect of hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water.  The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis.  It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature). Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in nearly every cell of the body.  It has a skin-supporting function in the dermis, maintains epidermal barrier function, immobilizes water in tissues, influences cell proliferation, and differentiation, and plays an essential role in wound healing and inflammatory responses.  The skin utilizes almost 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid.  The molecule has a negative charge allowing it to bind with water and form a viscous gel. As a result, it is used for dermal fillers and as a topical skin moisturizing ingredient.   

Beeswax is the wax structure that forms the honeycomb where bees store honey.  Its often used in cosmetics due to its hydrophobic (water-repelling) protective properties and its efficiency at healing bruises, inflammation, and burns.  It also exhibits anti-fungal and anti-microbial action that is enhanced when combined with honey.  Beeswax is composed of hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, and fatty alcohols.

Allantoin is a healing and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from urea that exhibits keratolytic action (removes excess keratinized epithelial cells) and stimulates cell division and replication of epithelial cells.  This accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin and allows the skin to retain moisture and rebuild the protective moisture barrier. It acts as a moisturizing agent and is commonly found in skincare formulated for dry skin, acne, or allergies.

Panthenol is the provitamin of B5 and functions as a moisturizer and emollient.  It is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds, and treating sunburn.

Honey is well known for its biological, physiological, and pharmacological activity.  It has been used for thousands of years by many cultures to treat wounds and other diseases. Honey active components include glucose, fructose, flavonoids, polyphenol, organic acids, minerals, amino acids, and vitamins. Honeys healing abilities and anti-microbial activity is due to its ability to draw moisture out of an environment, essentially dehydrating and killing bacterial cells.

There is no added fragrance, alcohol or perfume.

pH Testing

I got a result of pH 5.

pH Analysis

The pH of this toner is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). The pH is a skin-friendly 5.0 that will help the skin to maintain its optimal acidity level. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.

Results:

When I use this mask as the last step of my routine my skin is plumper the next morning.  The occlusive properties of the mask really help seal in active ingredients from the previous products in my routine.  I don’t personally enjoy the tacky and shiny finish, so I find it most beneficial to use at nighttime as a final step.  It is great at helping with healing blemishes, and calming redness.

Overall Impressions:

This mask is extremely versatile and can function as a sleeping mask, moisturizer and or a wash-off mask.  I personally love to use this as an occlusive layer at night to seal in moisturizing serums.  It dries down completely and does not leave a sticky residue.  This has to be my most loved Cosrx product.

What I liked:

  • Lightweight gel
  • Contains quality ingredients and no added irritants
  • Hydrating and skin-repairing
  • Suitable for acne-prone skin
  • The packaging is hygienic light protected
  • Can be used in three ways
  • Cosrx is a cruelty-free brand

What I disliked:

  • Feels tacky on the skin and leaves a shiny finish
  • May not be suitable for daytime use

References:

  • Cosrx website, www.cosrx.com
  • Anti-aging effects of L-arginine.  Journal of Advanced Research, 2010.
  • Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review.  3 Biotceh, 2016.
  • Bioactive for probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit.  Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
  • Significance of topical propolis in the treatment of facial acne vulgaris.  The Egyptian Journal of Dermatology and Venerology, 2015.
  • Beeswax: a min review of its anti-microbial activity and its application in medicine.  Asian Pacific Journal of Topical Medicine, 2016.
  • Honey, propolis, and royal jelly: a comprehensive review of their biological actions and health benefits.  Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2017.
  • Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.
  • Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981.  

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