Neogen Bio-Peel Gauze Peeling Pad – Review

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Neogen Bio-Peel Gauze Peeling Pads are gentle exfoliation pads that combine the benefits of chemical and manual exfoliation in one easy-to-use product. The pads are made from three layers of hypoallergenic cotton, presoaked in a solution of acids, antioxidants, and hydrating ingredients.  A dual texture gauze layer to remove dead skin cells, excess sebum and improve skin texture, and a quilted side for gentle areas of the face. 

They are available in three different varieties to suit a range of needs.  Lemon delivers an abundance of vitamin C for skin brightening.  Green tea utilizes antioxidant polyphenols that assist with preventing aging and acting as an anti-inflammatory to soothe irritated skin.   The wine variety contains the powerful antioxidant resveratrol. 

Neogen Claims:

Exfoliation that is so easy, convenient, effective yet gentle. Patented hypoallergenic cotton gauze pads provide a dual texture layer to gently exfoliate dead skin cells, excess sebum, and impurities and softly wipe away exfoliated skin to even out textures while delivering skin benefiting ingredients in the process. Soaked in a wine serum containing potent antioxidants like Resveratrol; these convenient cotton gauze peeling pads will leave your skin looking smoother, brighter, tighter, and healthier.

Appearance and Scent:

The pads are made from a unique three-layer system of hypoallergenic cotton.  The dual texture mesh gauze layer is used for gentle manual exfoliation with the quilted and padded side designed to provide cushioning between the fingers, for applying the chemical exfoliant. The opening is large enough to fit two fingers inside comfortably. Cotton was selected for the design as it has long been used on sensitive baby skin.  The gauze is said to mimic the effects of threading, a method of hair removal.  However, the results are mild and will not disrupt hair growth. A square gauze pattern was incorporated with the aim of sweeping dead skin cells from the surface layer of the skin without causing any damage to the skin.   There are 30 pre-soaked pads in a generous amount of serum.  The container is thick plastic, and the jar is covered with a protective seal to prevent the evaporation of the product.  The scent is a faint red wine smell.

How to Use:

Twice weekly use is recommended, after cleansing and on dry skin.  It is recommended to start with the textured gauze side to remove any larger skin cells.  Starting at the neck and working upwards, mimicking the effects of the lymphatic flow of the facial area, rub the pad in circular motions over the larger areas of the face towards the forehead and focusing on areas prone to blackheads.  Then rotate the pad to the embossed side and glide over the face picking up any remaining debris.  Leave the product on for a few minutes to allow for desquamation, the process of loosening of the glue holding dead skin cells together. Rinse the face with warm water, pat dry, and follow with the next steps of your skincare routine.

Cost:

All three varieties have an RRP of NZ$32.  This makes the cost per application $1.06. With twice weekly use, the pad would get 15 weeks of use from each tub.  However, due to the amount of serum and the size of the pad, they can easily be cut in half or quarters. 

Formulation Science:

Red wine contains the powerful antioxidant resveratrol, a free radical fighting ingredient, with proven free radical scavaging ability, that improves the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation. Other notable ingredients include sodium hyaluronate, and antioxidant blackberry, raspberry, and blueberry fruit extracts.

Hydroxy acids (HAs) are a class of compounds that have been widely used in several cosmetic and therapeutic formulations to achieve a variety of beneficial effects for the skin, in this case, for their ability to exfoliate and moisturize the skin. HAs are hydrophilic, meaning they attract water and are capable of breaking down the bonds between cells, allowing for enhanced exfoliation of the skin.

Ingredients:

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Wine Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Resveratrol, Carbomer, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Coptis Japonica Extract, Tartaric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tromethamine, YELLOW 5(CI 19140), RED 33(CI 17200), BLUE 1(CI 42090), Benzophenone-5, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Fragrance

Ingredient Analysis:

Resveratrol is a polyphenic antioxidant naturally found in grape skins and the leaf epidermis of the grape plant. It is also present in grape seeds and red wine, where it concentrates as the wine ferments. It has been found to be beneficial in antiaging, preventing UV mediated skin damage, increasing expression of other cellular antioxidants and it has anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer activity.

Glycerin is a skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant and humectant (water binder) that occurs naturally within the skin and assists in the development of immature skin cells. Having adequate amounts of glycerin available within the skin is crucial for those who suffer from psoriasis or non-melanoma skin cancers.

Hyaluronic Acid is a polysaccharide found in most cells of the body. Applied topically, it provides superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water.  The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility and hydrophilic, water-binding abilities.

Butylene Glycol is added to enhance penetration of active ingredients as it is capable of penetrating into the lower layers of the skin.

Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is extracted from milk. It works to renew and exfoliate the skin by breaking down the bonds that hold the top layer of dead skin cells together, unclogging pores, and revealing the newer layers of skin underneath. AHAs are hydrophilic meaning they attract and bind with water within the skin.

Glycolic Acid is an AHA derived from sugar cane. It has a small molecular size which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin. It is capable of disqualification of skin cells, effectively removing the outermost layer of these cells, revealing the younger and brighter skin underneath.

Berry extracts have a wide range of bioactive components, including phenolic compounds, flavonoids, and tannins.

Unfortunately, the serum also contains denatured alcohol and fragrance in the formula. They have also included pigments and preservatives. 

pH Testing:

I got a result of 5.9. This is slightly higher than the pH of healthy skin that lies between 5.5-5.5, but is within the margin of error of the test.

Read about skin pH and why it is so important here.

pH Analysis:

With a pH of 5.9, this product is too alkaline to be an effective chemical exfoliant.  Ideally, any AHA or BHA containing products should have a pH of 3.0-4.0.  However, this product does not claim to be exclusively a chemical exfoliant; the combination of the two at a low pH has the potential to be very irritating.   To get the most out of these pads, it is possible to simply forgo washing the product off the skin after 30 minutes, which will allow greater time for the chemical exfoliants to be effective.

Overall Impressions:

The Neogen bio-peel gauze peeling pads are gentle, yet effective at bridging the gap between chemical and physical exfoliation. They come in three varieties, so are likely to appeal to many different skin concerns. However, I will not repurchase due to the inclusion of irritating ingredients, and because I did not notice any improvement to my skin overall. I generally avoid harsh exfoliating products, especially those with added grains or beads. The benefit of this product is that it is easy to control the level of exfoliation required at the time of each use. They would be especially useful for anyone that wants to experiment with and gradually build up the amount of exfoliation their skin can tolerate. I would not recommend this product to anyone with sensitive skin or irritated due to the alcohol content amplifying the effects of acids on the skin.

What I Liked:

• Easy to use, large size and easy to hold
• Provides both physical and chemical exfoliation
• Packaging is sturdy and prevents the product from drying out
• Generous amount of serum in product
• The slit design allows for hygienic application due to not having to touch the pad

What I Disliked:

References:

• Neogen website – https://www.neogenlab.us
• Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigative Dermatology, 2010.
• Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2013
• Anti‐aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2008
• Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a mini review. 3 Biotech, 2016.
• Antioxidant and anticancer properties of berries. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition 2017.