Introducing my personalized skincare consultation service. Please fill out the form below to begin your journey to flawless skin.
[wpforms id="3267" title="false"]
The 11 Pearls Phyto Calming Essence is a hydrating, calming and soothing essence. It contains the fermented postbiotic ingredient Bifida ferment lysate, which has been shown to improve the skin barrier and improve the healthy resident flora of the skin, as well as brightening licorice root extract with soothing plant extracts. This serum helps treat pigmentation, hydrate the skin and calm acne.
Unichi Claims:
11 Pearls™ Phyto Calming Essence is a lightweight, nourishing essence. Utilizing advanced technology, by combining microHA™ and precious botanical ingredients, this essence aims to promote a clear and radiant complexion. It works synergistically to soothe, calm and hydrate skin, helping to improve luminosity and firmness.
Appearance and Scent:
The essence is a beautiful green liquid with a viscosity slightly similar to water. The scent is a mild eucalyptus smell.
Packaging, Size, Cost and Expiry:
The essence comes in a 50 ml glass bottle with a dropper. I was kindly gifted mine from Unichi, but it can be purchased for AUD $39.95. The expiry is three years after the date of manufacture.
How to Use:
Apply a pea-sized amount to the face, neck and decolletage. As an essence, the product would be used after cleansing and toning, before moisturizing or using heavier serums. The product can also be used in the place of toner as a toning step is not required to reduce the pH of the skin, with this formula.
Application order:
Cleanser -> Toner -> 11 Pearls Essence -> Moisturizer -> SPF (daytime)
Oil cleanser -> Cleanser -> Toner -> 11 Pearls Essence -> Moisturizer (nighttime)
Formulation Science:
The formula contains Bifida ferment lysate. Fermented products are produced when bacteria are grown on a nutrient-rich substrate. The bacteria in the resulting broth are then destroyed, so that cell contents and parts of the cell walls and cytoplasm are kept in the solution. This is referred to as a lysate and serves as a probiotic nutritional source for the resident, helpful bacteria that naturally colonize healthy skin. This helps reduce inflammation within the skin in the same way that has been shown by taking oral probiotic strains. Clinical studies have already reported that topical probiotics are capable of exerting skin health effects such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burns, and scars, rejuvenating the skin, and improving the skin’s innate immunity.
Beneficial ingredients for the skin that are abundant in bacterial lysates include hyaluronic acid, sphingomyelinase (an enzyme essential for ceramide production), lipoteichoic acid, and peptidoglycan, which stimulate the innate immune system and increase the production of antimicrobial peptides. Acetic acid, an antibacterial substance, and diacetyl, an antimicrobial agent that is effective against gram-negative pathogenic bacterial strains like Pseudomonas and E. coli.
The lysate used in this serum, CLR’s Repair Complex CLR™ PF is a lysate of Bifidobacteria that retains metabolism products, cytoplasm fractions and cell wall components. According to the manufacturer, when Repair Complex was first released, it was the only patented active ingredient capable of preventing DNA damage, by increasing the rate of repair of damaged cells within the skin following UV exposure. This increases cellular repair and supports the skins own protection mechanisms, making it protective against premature photoaging.
This essence also contains the trademarked ingredient microHA produced by a patented enzymatic degradation technology. This study showed this form of hyaluronic acid, over an eight week period was able to:
- Significantly decrease the depth of wrinkles by up to 40%
- Increase skin hydration by up to 96%
- Enhance skin firmness and elasticity by 55%
Ingredients:
Water, Methyl Glucerth-20, Bis-PEG-18, Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, PEG-12, Butylene Glycol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Juice, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Thralose, Urea, Serine, Penetylene Glycol, Algin, Capryl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium pHosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Ethoxyfglycol, Propylene Glycol, Glucose, Lactic Acid, Bisabolol, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylghexglycerin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance, CTI 42090, CI 169140.
Ingredient Analysis:
Bifida Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium bacteria. It is one of a few strains of lactic acid bacteria that can beneficially influence the metabolic activity and composition of the resident flora of the skin, and inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacterial strains. Because probiotic bacteria can modulate the immune system, they can downregulate immune disorders such as allergies.
This study showed the application of a 10% Bifidobacterium longum extract helped improve the skins natural barrier function and decreased skin sensitivity in people with reactive skin.
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice has been used by many civilizations throughout history for its ability to soothe, calm, hydrate and heal the skin. The gel substance found within the leaf includes a variety of over 75 active ingredients. I can help heal wounds, moisturize the skin and promote collagen production. It is also especially effective in treating acne.
Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives offer superior moisturization as the skin-identical molecules are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and absorbing 1000 times their weight in water. The lower the molecular weight, the deeper the molecule can penetrate the skin. Hydrolized Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid that exists as a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic acid, is more water-soluble, and is less likely to oxidize. It provides more significant moisturization as the molecule is capable of penetrating deeper into the dermis. It is ideal for use in skincare due to its biocompatibility, consistency, and hydrophilicity (water-loving nature).
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is produced from marigold flowers. It is considered to be moisturizing and good for dry, irritated skin. It has a long history of topical use in the treatment of skin ulcers, wounds, and eczema.
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract comes from the German Chamomile plant. It has several pharmacological properties and is often used as a skin-conditioning agent, anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient.
Licorice Root Extract is extracted from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant known to possess many medicinal properties. It is one of the oldest herbal remedies with a rich history of medical medicine. Its ongoing use is evolving so much so it has been referred to as “the plant of the future”. The root contains over 300 compounds that have been shown to be anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-ulcer anti-oxidant agents. The extract improves hyperpigmentation by dispersing melanin within the skin, inhibiting melanin biosynthesis and decreasing free radical production. The main component is the polyphenolic flavonoid Glabridin. Studies have shown that glabridin prevents UVB induced pigmentation and exerts anti-inflammatory effects. It has also been in the treatment of dermatitis, eczema and acne.
This double-blind clinical study compared 30 patients using a 2% topical licorice gel preparation and 30 patients using a placebo over a two-week period. The results showed the licorice extract could be considered an effective agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis.
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil is created by steam distilling the leaves of the Eucalyptus tree. The active compound is highly antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant in nature. It is considered to pose a low risk of sensitivity, however, anyone with skin sensitivity to essential oils is best avoiding this ingredient. Read more about essential oils in skincare here.
Trehalose is a sugar molecule comprised of two glucose units. It helps plants and insects survive extreme conditions. It works topically on the skin as a moisturizer, skin protector and antioxidant. It has the ability to bind to water more strongly than water can bind to itself; because of this property, it is an excellent hydrating agent and can assist the skin in maintaining its structure and prevent transepidermal water loss. As it also forms a film on the surface of the skin, it can protect the skin from itching, burning and irritation.
Urea is a naturally occurring component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin that has a function in retaining moisture and preserving the integrity of the skin. Urea comprises about 7% of the NMF and is associated with the management of skin disorders including dermatitis and psoriasis. Urea has been used in dermatological therapy for over 20 years and has five main functions; to retain moisture, maintain barrier function, exfoliate, increase permeably and provide pain and itching relief to the skin.
Pullulan is a polysaccharide produced from the fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans that are gaining popularity in the pharmaceutical industry due to its unique characteristics, including that it is water-soluble, unlike most polysaccharides. According to the manufacturer, DKSH, it provides an instant lifting effect to the skin.
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is extracted from milk. It works to renew and exfoliate the skin by breaking down the material that holds the top layer of dead skin cells together, unclogging pores. AHA’s are hydrophilic meaning they attract water and bind water within the skin. Lactic acid requires an acidic pH (<4.0) to exfoliate, so in this formula is more likely to act as a humectant, that binds water in the skin.
Tocopherol refers to a group of molecules known as Vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant essential for healthy skin. Higher levels are found in the dermis than in the epidermis. Vitamin E is delivered to the skin through sebum but can be applied topically, especially in cases where the diet is lacking. Vitamin E absorbs UV energy and reacts with reactive oxygen species (ROS) which protects the skin from UV-induced free radical damage and provides protection from the damaging effects of UV radiation. It is also able to provide anti-inflammatory properties within the skin. It is added to skincare for its ability to protect collagen from degradation by ROS. Tocopherol acetate is synthetic where Tocopherol is naturally sourced.
Fragrance, also commonly listed as perfume or parfum, is a mix of odorant ingredients. If fragrance is listed in the ingredients, it has been added to change the smell of the product and imparts no skincare benefits. The way most fragrance ingredients release scent is through a volatile chemical reaction, that can be incredibly sensitizing to the skin. This is true of both natural and synthetic fragrances. To read more about skincare ingredients to avoid read my post here.
pH Testing:
I got a result of 5.
pH Analysis:
The pH of this essence is within the pH range of healthy skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here. As the pH of healthy facial skin is on average 4.7, this product is likely to be incredibly beneficial to the health of the skin. Bifida ferment lysate is proven to increase the number of beneficial bacteria on the skin, and improve the skins moisture barrier, but it can only do so when a product is formulated at the correct pH, which this product is. This also indicates the product is likely to be beneficial for those who suffer from acne or breakouts, as the pH of the skin and any skincare products used has a significant impact on the amount of the P. acnes bacteria is able to reproduce and cause inflammation that leads to blemishes.
Brand Transparancy:
This is the list of “active ingredients” listed on their website:
Hydrolysed Sodium Hyaluronate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Juice, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
And this is the actual ingredients list, that is only known to the consumer on receiving the purchase, and looking a the packaging: Not the change in order (which would normally indicate concentration/volume of the ingredient in the final formulation) and the omission of fragrance, colourants, preservatives.
Water, Methyl Glucerth-20, Bis-PEG-18, Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, PEG-12, Butylene Glycol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Juice, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Thralose, Urea, Serine, Penetylene Glycol, Algin, Capryl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium pHosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Ethoxyfglycol, Propylene Glycol, Glucose, Lactic Acid, Bisabolol, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylghexglycerin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance, CTI 42090, CI 169140.
I reached out to Unichi regarding this prior to posting my review. They informed me that it was something they are aware of and will look at in the future.
Results:
This product is called an essence, but it is really a serum, and this is how I used it in my routine. While I don’t have acne myself, but this essence would be very effective at preventing blemishes, as acne can be caused by an overgrowth of pathogenic (disease-causing) bacteria. A situation that can be improved by supplementing beneficial bacteria with post-biotic ingredients, like Bifida Ferment Lysate. The licorice root extract would be beneficial for lightening any scars left after blemishes have cleared, and the soothing plant extracts would help calm any inflammation or irritation in the skin.
Overall Impressions:
This had the potential to be a really effective essence, with many impressive active ingredients within the formula that have scientifically backed up results. There is also several potentially irritating essential oils, fragrances and colourants in the formula. To read more about skincare ingredients to avoid click here. For this reason, after three weeks of use, I decided not continued to use this on my face as my skin is very sensitive to irritating ingredients. I did instead use this on a recent surgical scar I have on my arm. The formula with its licorice root and hyaluronic acid has been very hydrating and has removed some of the redness from the scar tissue. Overall this is a nice serum, but I only recommend this product to anyone who is not sensitive to any of the ingredients.
Things I Liked:
- Contains innovative ingredietns with proven effectivnes
- Affordable
- The packaging is recyclable and sustainable
- Unichi is a cruelty-free brand
Things I Disliked:
- The brand is not transparent about all of the ingredients
- Contains Eucalyptus oil which sensitive individuals might find irritating
- Contains artificial fragrance and colourants
Disclaimer:
This product was gifted to me by Unichi in exchange for an unbiased review.
Sources:
- Unichi Website www.unichi.com.au
- Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome, you never walk alone. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.
- Topical use of probiotics: The natural balance. Porto Biomedical Journal, 2017.
- Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin pigmentation by 2-hydroxytyrosol. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica B, 2014.
- The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2003.
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2014.
- Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 2013.
- Glycyrrhiza glabra – A plant for the future. Mintage Journal of Pharmaceutical and Medical Sciences, 2013.
- Allantoin – Healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Pediatrics and Family Medicine, 1981.
- Are skincare products with probiotics worth the hype? Dermatology times, 2016.
- Bioactive from probiotics for dermal health: function and benefit. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2013.
- A Review of the Application and Pharmacological Properties of α-Bisabolol and α-Bisabolol-Rich Oils. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society, 2009.
- A review of Eucalyptus globulus: An new perspective in therapeutics. International Journal of Chemical and Biochemical Sciences, 2015.
- Innovative Ingrediens for the Personal Care Industry. DKSH.
- The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products. Cosmetic Science and Technology, 2017.
- Pullulan: an exopolysaccharide and its various applications. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2013.
- Evaluation of the Filming and Protective Properties of a New Trehalose and Ceramides Based Ingredient. Cosmetics, 2019.
- Repair Complex CLR™ PF. CLR Raw Material documentation.
- Topical urea in skincare: a review. Dermatologic Therapy, 2018.
- The Derm Review: Urea, 2018.
- Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatological Online Journal, 2016.
- Vitamin E and skin health. Oregon State University-Micronutrient Information Centre, 2012.
- Evaluation of aloe vera gel gloves in the treatment of dry skin associated with occupational exposure. American Journal of Infection Control, 2003.
